king PK130 which thru wall exh pipe kit to buy?

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the auger will not pull out the top as expected, the auger shaft is messed up where the spring clip got mangled., it will not pass through the bottom bearing. I'm about to cut the damaged bottom part of the auger shaft off. I'll need a replacement auger.
maybe clean it up with a file first.
 
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the auger will not pull out the top as expected, the auger shaft is messed up where the spring clip got mangled., it will not pass through the bottom bearing. I'm about to cut the damaged bottom part of the auger shaft off. I'll need a replacement auger.
Shoot. Boy, you are going to know every inch of that thing. I didn't do a good job helping you troubleshoot awhile back. I believe you said you measured 120V on the motor and it wasn't turning. Without measuring current also, that is not the best test. As someone said, these tiny HP motors are high impedance and can stall. If you don't smell smoke, or see melting plastic it's hard to know that it's stalled. A bad gearbox or jammed auger will stop the motor. Those motors should be tested with a fused 120V jumper. They only draw less than an amp.
 
Shoot. Boy, you are going to know every inch of that thing. I didn't do a good job helping you troubleshoot awhile back. I believe you said you measured 120V on the motor and it wasn't turning. Without measuring current also, that is not the best test. As someone said, these tiny HP motors are high impedance and can stall. If you don't smell smoke, or see melting plastic it's hard to know that it's stalled. A bad gearbox or jammed auger will stop the motor. Those motors should be tested with a fused 120V jumper. They only draw less than an amp.

too late, the motor is out of there.
im trying to solve why the auger was jammed, the new motor was not moving it. the spring clip sheared so it was bound up.

im trying to extract the auger to clean up the shaft, see if its true or bent.

well, I gave up trying to extract the auger for now, i got it freed up and oiled the bottom bushing a bit.
I think I'm gonna reinstall the motor and see if it spins.
my back is killin me.
 
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cleaned up the shaft a bit with a dremel grinder and was able to extract the auger, the hole for the clip is wallowed out of round.
Cleaned it up more and tapered the end slightly .
If it snaps the clip again I'l drill it out for a stronger clip or bolt and locknut.
 

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If the auger doesn’t require a new mortgage I would change it. Drilling out the shaft is do able but they are hard to do without a drill press, and most are case hardened on each end. Cobalt bit and bore it slow
 
If the auger doesn’t require a new mortgage I would change it. Drilling out the shaft is do able but they are hard to do without a drill press, and most are case hardened on each end. Cobalt bit and bore it slow
the auger shaft filed easy, definately not hardened.
Theres a video where the end of an auger twisted off.

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the auger shaft filed easy, definately not hardened.
Theres a video where the end of an auger twisted off.

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Oh boy- I had no idea it was like that. Not a good design. Cheap parts. That should be designed like the rear end of a car. That auger does all the work. I'm not sure how mine works (Harman). I do know old ones had a chain drive, but mine is direct drive.
 
You get what you pay for, you pay up front for Harman with its better engineering.
With a direct drive like this it could use a universal joint as you say.
It would probably work if I welded the 3/8 universal from a socket set to the motor.
Or a dog drive, install a thick pin in the output shaft and slot the auger shaft for the pin, that would allow some movement.
I'll probably end up buying a new auger, $55, because I don't see this fixing anything,
but I'll try a thicker pin first.... back to the store again.
 
You get what you pay for, you pay up front for Harman with its better engineering.
With a direct drive like this it could use a universal joint as you say.
It would probably work if I welded the 3/8 universal from a socket set to the motor.
Or a dog drive, install a thick pin in the output shaft and slot the auger shaft for the pin, that would allow some movement.
I'll probably end up buying a new auger, $55, because I don't see this fixing anything,
but I'll try a thicker pin first.... back to the store again.
Yes, I think for that $$ it's best to get a new one, and perhaps work on a motor bracket and flex coupling or u-joint with the old one.
Maybe if that hole in the auger shaft were packed with heavy grease it would extend the running time to failure.
 
The clip used is called a shear pin. It is used to take the pressure off the auger motor and auger shaft if the auger gets stuck for some reason, preventing the auger motor from failing. Find the reason for the failure, bent auger, resin build-up in pellet shoot bad bearings/bushings
Just my nickel's worth
 
hitch pin at the hardware store, the stove mfgr calls it spring clip but its being used as a shear pin.
The holes in the auger for the pin are key holed out, I'm trying a slightly bigger pin to lessen the wobble.
If I still had my lathe I'd turn a sleeve to reinforce it.
 
hitch pin at the hardware store, the stove mfgr calls it spring clip but its being used as a shear pin.
The holes in the auger for the pin are key holed out, I'm trying a slightly bigger pin to lessen the wobble.
If I still had my lathe I'd turn a sleeve to reinforce it.
I piece of annealed wire or soft steel nail might work. As long as the metal is not hardened. You can still try for better alignment ect.
 
I piece of annealed wire or soft steel nail might work. As long as the metal is not hardened. You can still try for better alignment ect.
yeh someone used a copper nail and it worked for them.
i bought new clips today, compare to old broken clip.
 

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yeh someone used cupper nail and it worked for them.
i bought new clips today, compare to old broken clip.
I don't think they are actual shear pins, just clips that might break off. If they were real shear pins it would be a different part number.
 
if they were shear pins they would shear off , this design mangles the auger.
That video you have is good. The guy is right, poor design, not taking into account the stresses in that "joint". I understand they want to provide protection for the motor and gearbox, but a proper shear pin would be nice, and a flex joint, and a mounted motor. Not one hanging off the end off a shaft. I guess it must be cheaper to do it the way they do. I'm not sure what I have....
 
That video you have is good. The guy is right, poor design, not taking into account the stresses in that "joint". I understand they want to provide protection for the motor and gearbox, but a proper shear pin would be nice, and a flex joint, and a mounted motor. Not one hanging off the end off a shaft. I guess it must be cheaper to do it the way they do. I'm not sure what I have....
That video you have is good. The guy is right, poor design, not taking into account the stresses in that "joint". I understand they want to provide protection for the motor and gearbox, but a proper shear pin would be nice, and a flex joint, and a mounted motor. Not one hanging off the end off a shaft. I guess it must be cheaper to do it the way they do. I'm not sure what I have....
they have no simple way to align the motor and auger shafts, its doomed to fail.
I just want to get through the next 6 weeks, after that I have car repairs waiting , also the snowmobile has lost its spark.
Then I'll get back to this stove. For now I'll put a chunk of foam under the motor to keep weight (3 lb) off the shafts.
 
they have no simple way to align the motor and auger shafts, its doomed to fail.
I just want to get through the next 6 weeks, after that I have car repairs waiting , also the snowmobile has lost its spark.
Then I'll get back to this stove. For now I'll put a chunk of foam under the motor to keep weight (3 lb) off the shafts.
Try not to use anything flammable
 
Try not to use anything flammable
Try not to use anything flammable
I left the motor mounting stock for now.

It was failing to feed or shut down properly, I traced that to a wrong connection on the board, glad I made a little video of the wiring.
theres 5 blade connectors in a row but only 2 wires, one was wrong.
I changed the wiring, everything is working as designed now. Just need to button it up and add a few pellets.
Just need a wheel barrow to carry all the tools back to the garage.
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I'll order a new auger next week, I suspect its not long until it binds up again, the holes in the shaft are keyholed. So its done.
However, right now its running normal again.
Thanks for all the help.

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