Knob creaks and turns hard

[reaperman1]

So after this mornings reload, I let the stove do what it wanted after turning the dial down. It’s been creeping up to what I believe is close to its peak temp with this load of wood, three big splits that cover the width of the stove. Ive have the blower fan on its lowest setting since I felt the stove was hot enough to output good heat. I know without the fan running the flu temp would be higher along with the cat temp gauge. I don’t think the blower fan cools the cat but I’m sure it cools the temp probe. It’s been an hour since when I turned the knob down, the flapper hadn’t moved. Is this normal? You can see the cat temp at 1436, and flu at 844 and the stove is about as hot as it’s ever been. This is the total opposite of a slow, even heat that I read about with BK stoves. After this thing settle’s down, maybe, but thats an another hour or more down the road.

This should also prove I’m not burn wet wood.

 

[all night moe]

my wood is at least 7 years minimum and older split and dried red oak and ash. My issue isn’t with the stove/cat getting hot it’s the stove/cat getting too hot.

Could this be the problem? A 7yr minimum stash of splits? Oak burns hot as it is and the ash definitely couldn't get any drier.
Is it possible the ultra dry wood is burning at a peak temp and fast rate?

Asking all here.

 

[stoveliker]

Your cat temp is of no consequence. The thermostat does not regulate on the cat temperature. It regulates on the heat near the coil. That should be a decent measure of the heat radiated out into your room.

The flue temps do seem quite high to me.
Though you still have some flame (I think; hard to see).

 

[reaperman1]

Ok, 3.5 hrs later. I’m not sure when but the flapper closed itself, as it does when I only have it opened about 1/16”. It’s pretty much snuffed the fire as the temps dropped drastically. The cat is to the point of reaching the 500 degree mark and the stack is below 300. Hardly any heat output from the stove and I turned off the blower fan about 2.5 hrs ago, well before the flapper closed itself. The flapper hasn’t opened up despite the low stove temps. So why does the flapper close after the stove has cooled some rather than when its piping hot and needs it? So now I wait to see if the flapper will open as the house cools, or open it myself.

This is why this stove has been so finicky from the start. I need to keep babysitting it for a constant heat output.

PS, there were no flames visible in the photos of my previous post.

 

[reaperman1]

Could this be the problem? A 7yr minimum stash of splits? Oak burns hot as it is and the ash definitely couldn't get any drier.
Is it possible the ultra dry wood is burning at a peak temp and fast rate?

Asking all here.

I've wonderd this myself. I always figured I was 10 years ahead with firewood. I'm blessed to have a nice wooded home acreage with an endless supply of hardwood. When it gets real cold here in Minnesota I know Ash is going to give me the longest, hottest burn. A lot of my red oak is lighter in weight than the ash. Meaning the moisture is way down in the oak and I know it does burn faster. But everyone always says the drier the better in cat stoves, I have my doubts although there is probably a sweet spot. I know density matters too along with weight. Weight is BTU's.

 

[reaperman1]

The flue temps do seem quite high to me.

Me too, over 800 degrees for a couple of hours is excessive I think. My theory is a 1200 + degree cat re-heats already hot exhaust gasses only a few inches away from the exiting chimney pipe. How can’t the flu gasses be that hot? In addition, I think the stove can’t absorb and radiate that much heat. Especially, with shielding on 5 sides of the stove leaving only the front open to dissipate the heat.