lampmfg
Burning Hunk
Dan,
I read your original post and noted that you moved your barometric damper from 2 1/2 to 4 1/2 because the damper flap was flapping open. By increasing the number to 4 1/2 you are increasing the draft "to the furnace" which in turn will draw more heat up the chimney. I would probably go back to at least #3 since you have a fairly tall chimney. Secondly, I wouldn't focus too much on whether the barometric damper flap is moving. Sometimes it will be totally still (not moving) in a closed position, and other times it might be standing continually open( on windy days). I agree that you may want to purchase a monometer to monitor your draft.
I also agree that the biggest variable is the wood. Lamppa recommends wood between 18 and 28% moisture because this is what the EPA says the furnace must be able to burn cleanly, and the furnace must be certified to these moisture readings. But actually around 14% up to around a high of around 24% seems to be optimal. I did notice that last year when our wood was at only 8% moisture we only got around 5 hours of burn time with the Kuuma. But this year with the same furnace, same type of wood (birch), but at around 24% we consistently get around 13 hours. I agree that wood that is higher in moisture (over 24%) will consume Btu's to drive the extra moisture off the wood.
When you load your furnace - does the furnace go down to a small "c" on the control? With seasoned wood it will normally hit small "c" in anywhere from 15 minutes to 35 minutes. Higher moisture wood may never hit small "c".
We also agree with the importance of your cold air return. I know we call it cold air, but we want this air as warm as we can get it. If you are drawing from the basement, try to draw the air from up above the blower. If you attach to your home's cold air return - you may even want to insulate this cold air ducting.
I agree with everyone else, once you get this furnace tuned to your home, it should provide years and years of very comfortable heat.
Dale
I read your original post and noted that you moved your barometric damper from 2 1/2 to 4 1/2 because the damper flap was flapping open. By increasing the number to 4 1/2 you are increasing the draft "to the furnace" which in turn will draw more heat up the chimney. I would probably go back to at least #3 since you have a fairly tall chimney. Secondly, I wouldn't focus too much on whether the barometric damper flap is moving. Sometimes it will be totally still (not moving) in a closed position, and other times it might be standing continually open( on windy days). I agree that you may want to purchase a monometer to monitor your draft.
I also agree that the biggest variable is the wood. Lamppa recommends wood between 18 and 28% moisture because this is what the EPA says the furnace must be able to burn cleanly, and the furnace must be certified to these moisture readings. But actually around 14% up to around a high of around 24% seems to be optimal. I did notice that last year when our wood was at only 8% moisture we only got around 5 hours of burn time with the Kuuma. But this year with the same furnace, same type of wood (birch), but at around 24% we consistently get around 13 hours. I agree that wood that is higher in moisture (over 24%) will consume Btu's to drive the extra moisture off the wood.
When you load your furnace - does the furnace go down to a small "c" on the control? With seasoned wood it will normally hit small "c" in anywhere from 15 minutes to 35 minutes. Higher moisture wood may never hit small "c".
We also agree with the importance of your cold air return. I know we call it cold air, but we want this air as warm as we can get it. If you are drawing from the basement, try to draw the air from up above the blower. If you attach to your home's cold air return - you may even want to insulate this cold air ducting.
I agree with everyone else, once you get this furnace tuned to your home, it should provide years and years of very comfortable heat.
Dale
I "guess" it's the fan moving the air too quickly past the heating area just below the plenum because cold air is blowing through my floor vents...It's embarrassing quite frankly.... I know the stove pipe is hooked up correctly and the smoke runs out the chimney clear as glass, so even if this thing needs to be adjusted here and there, I do not see how I will ever get consistent 70 degree indoor heat from it..I just don't think it will happen. I can't find any reason why this thing can't produce heat in my house above 64 degrees on a day when it's 26 degrees outside....I guess (when I get the time to deal with it) I'll have the HVAC guys come out AGAIN to scratch their heads and offer little solutions...I do feel like to a large degree I have a very expensive paperweight that will at least keep us from freezing to death if the grid goes down...Word of advice, I just feel there are too many variables involved when trying to heat a home with a wood burning furnace...there are too many variables to take the gamble if you're looking to heat a home with this thing and no house/chimney/draft/ducting etc. are created equal. Results WILL vary from house to house for certain with these furnaces and that is VERY problematic. I know the folks that are getting 77 degrees inside their houses when the temps outside are below 0 are telling the truth..I trust the folks at Kuuma 100%, but man, this was a big expense and I'm just wasting beautiful firewood at this point. Thank God I still have my heat pump on my HVAC unit and propane set up. Serious advice: If you really are dead set on burning wood for heat, set up the cheapest unit you can, see how it works for you. If you like the results, many then after a few years of saving money, look at getting a Kuuma...maybe you'll have those excellent results all of us read about from satisficed customers...Maybe your house/chimney/ducting, and all the science that goes into this just works for you and your house. Thanks
