Leaking Selkirk Super Pro chimney

[JohnCusick]

Hi - I completed an installation of approx 25' of stove pipe and chimeny just prior to last heating season and during moderate to hard rains, I'm getting water dripping out of the ceiling adaptor. I have about 8' of HeatFab stovepipe up to a Seilkirk Superpro ceiling adaptor and then approx 14 feet of SuperPro Stainless straight up terminating with Seilkirk's cap/spark arrestor.

I've been on the roof and the install looks good.
I've inspected the roof sheathing and framing during these events and everything is bone dry.
I've been in the attic during rains when the ceiling adaptor is leaking and there is water coming out of the joint between the chimney section. I have all joints banded with clamps.

Is this a problem with this brand?

Any help is appreciated

 

[begreen]

Is there a storm collar just above the roof flashing for the pipe? Is the storm collar caulked with silicone where it meets the pipe?

 

[webbie]

There are a lot of possible causes - some leaks are even "normal", meaning that the combination of high humidity and rain can cause excessive condensation on the inside or outside of a chimney - which can then leak.

My first thought would be that leaks INSIDE the pipe would not come out the ceiling support - but anything is possible.

It is even possible for water to splash up under the storm collar, and then run down the outside of the pipe, but you would be able to see this in the attic......same with a leaky storm collar. Still, as BG suggests, start with silicone where the storm collar meets the pipe.

After that, approach it like a mechanic - remove the cap and put a plastic bag and rubber band over the top - wait for a heavy rain or two - did it stop? If so, the cap is the problem. You can purchase an off-brand cap (weathershield) which may provide more protection.

 

[webbie]

Oh, if the chimney normally drafts upwards, it might help to keep the air control on the stove or the door slightly open. By moving air up the chimney, it might carry away some of the vapor that could be condensing.

 

[downeast]

Is there a storm collar just above the roof flashing for the pipe? Is the storm collar caulked with silicone where it meets the pipe?

Right on this suggestion -check #1 is the caulking around the storm collar on both sides of the collar to be watertight.

Then check that the 3' pipe sections were screwed into the next section the full 1/4 rotation before clamping. Clamps are only the suspenders to the threaded joint "belt" ( as in belt and suspenders ).

Remember that hard blowing rains will flow inside the chimney pipe and can exit between the joints. Then you can get a larger chimney cap that could slow the draft.

 

[JohnCusick]

Yep. Storm Collar is in place and caulked with Geoflex.
When I was last in the attic during a hard rain, I didn't have any leakage at the section just beneath the storm collar, ie no water running down the outside of the pipe that the storm collar is caulked to. THe water seems to be coming OUT OF THE FIRST JOINT that is below the plane of the roof sheating.
Thanks for your thought, though.

 

[Hogwildz]

I swear I remember others having a similar problem where the insulation between the pipe layers was wicking moisture or water and it had found its way in similar to yours.
I don't know the remedy, hopefully whomever had that problem will pop in. Or you could attempt to search it on here.

 

[JohnCusick]

Great Insights -

I will begin my process of elimination starting with the Cap before the next storm.

A note on the 'twisting of sections together,
With this Seilkirk brand, I was shocked during the installation that after twisting the sections to what seemed like a full interlock position - when one of us held onto a section for deal life and the other mechanic turned till the first one couldn't hold andy longer- At that point I could still PULL THE SECTIONS APART. This fact commanded me to put clamping rings on all of the joints
Any one else find this.

 

[begreen]

I remember that thread too Hogwildz. Was that also Selkirk? I try a search for it.

 

[Hogwildz]

My memory has failed to reach any further. I can't remember. ;(

 

[Hogwildz]

Great Insights -

I will begin my process of elimination starting with the Cap before the next storm.

A note on the 'twisting of sections together,
With this Seilkirk brand, I was shocked during the installation that after twisting the sections to what seemed like a full interlock position - when one of us held onto a section for deal life and the other mechanic turned till the first one couldn't hold andy longer- At that point I could still PULL THE SECTIONS APART. This fact commanded me to put clamping rings on all of the joints
Any one else find this.

That may be your poblem if they are not locked, might be letting water in and wicking down the insulation between the shells.

 

[JohnCusick]

I'd be curious as to others experience with the 'locking' of this brand cause as far as I can tell the intgerlock mechanism is garbage.

 

[begreen]

Here's a link that may be helpful. The leakage suspects in this case were the upper vent slots. You might try contacting John via a PM here. Note the section on sealing. I have only used pure silicone. I'm not sure if GeoFlex is appropriate here or not. GeoCel make a pure silicone product that should work.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/20384/

 

[Hogwildz]

I helped install it on a donor stove install. Although tight as hell when turning, we got it to lock, and it would not pull apart. I believe the design calls for clamping rings on all joints anyways.
Try to stay calm while determining the problem. Getting bent won't help any. When all taken care of, then be pissed LOL
Of course by then you will hopefully be relieved.

 

[Hogwildz]

Geocel is dome tough azz sheet.
I used much of it back in my roofing days.
YOu don't want to put it on anything that may have to come apart in the future, cause its biach if ya can get apart at all.

 

[JohnCusick]

Thanks BeGreen for your efforts and all others who have shared their thoughts.
I'll look more closely during the next good rain and also get in tough with John at Seilkirk.
I'm pretty certain the Geocel that I used is OK. THe joint at the flashing collar is solid, as in good - not hard -
and
I fear that the vent slots are not my point of intrusion as I DON"T get and water at the section that passes throuth the flashing thimble where the vent slots are. hohum...

 

[JohnCusick]

Thanks Hogwildz for your points of encouragement.

 

[Hogwildz]

Trust me, I don't follow my own advice LOL. I am a bitchmaster when things go wrong.
Check the post Begreen pasted, your answer might just lay in that post.

If you have vent holes in the pipe under the storm collar, it may be splashing in them on heavy rains, then soaking & wicking in the insulation, running down and out the joint.
Worth a look at.

 

[JohnCusick]

I need to be able to disassemble the sections above my storm collar - one 4' section and then the cap - for the purposes of cleaning so I hope it doesn't come to the point of caulking the joints.
I think the Geocel I used was 2300. We were using it a lot last summer and I had it in the truck at the time.

 

[JohnCusick]

I have two 4' sections of chimney just below the cap and my storm collar - and the vent channels just below it -sit approx 12" below a section joint between the first and section section. Now the roof is a 10 pitch and the second 4' foot section projects about 2-3 feet below the roof section into the attic.

The last time I was in the attic during a 'leaking event', It appeared that the chimney pipe was dry above the joint that was in the attic, so hence my concern that the water was 'coming out of the pipe'.

 

[Hogwildz]

It looks more and more to me the water is wicking in the insulation. and running out below.
John, can you post some photos of the piping, collar and vent holes outside the roof, and maybe a couple of the set up below the roof line.
And where the water is showing up at inside?
Your descriptions are great, but keep in mind, we are trying to picture the unseen in our heads. Can be tough some times.
Thanks

P.S. If you never tried to separate things caulked with that Geocel, your in for a heck of a time.

 

[JohnCusick]

Great idea Hogwildz. I heading up to the roof is a bit and I'll bring the camera.
Yea, the caulks we use now are all buggers the get apart. Some of the one part urethanes made by Sika-Sikaflex and Sonneborn- NP1 are flat out impossible - and I'll includ ethe Geocel in there also. Better to NOT USE IT in a place where you may want to take it apart before it fails.
Later

 

[Hogwildz]

Great idea Hogwildz. I heading up to the roof is a bit and I'll bring the camera.
Yea, the caulks we use now are all buggers the get apart. Some of the one part urethanes made by Sika-Sikaflex and Sonneborn- NP1 are flat out impossible - and I'll includ ethe Geocel in there also. Better to NOT USE IT in a place where you may want to take it apart before it fails.
Later

I love Sikaflex, that stuff is one of the best sealants I have ever laid my hands on.
But again, not were something may need to come apart in the future. Forget it. Even sucks to even try and cut with a blade.

 

[Nic36]

The problem is most likely (as already suggested) that water is wicking in at the seams that run down the pipe. It gets in the insulation and makes it's way down to the stove-pipe adapter. Look at the seams, especially at each joint, and you can tell that it is not water-tight. I had the same problem with the Selkirk chimney pipe I bought at Lowe's. I posted on a couple of other threads about that. Others here have too. I put silicone down the seams and around each pipe joint and haven't had a problem since.

 

[04074]

Great Insights -

I will begin my process of elimination starting with the Cap before the next storm.

A note on the 'twisting of sections together,
With this Seilkirk brand, I was shocked during the installation that after twisting the sections to what seemed like a full interlock position - when one of us held onto a section for deal life and the other mechanic turned till the first one couldn't hold andy longer- At that point I could still PULL THE SECTIONS APART. This fact commanded me to put clamping rings on all of the joints
Any one else find this.

You must have got some of the good ones, my pipes never lock up! They just keep spinning. Haven't tried the locking bands yet, But I bought enough for every joint (duh)