Log burner in a larger Inglenook

[rainstick]

Hi, I have a large inglenook which is not lined simply open . The issue is it smokes and for the life of me I can't stop it. I have only recently uncovered it.

I think this is due to the size of the room somewhat changed since house was built 300 yrs ago .... I wish I could get it to work as is but don't know how.

So a log burner may be the answer and more efficient.

q) Can I put in a multifuel logburner but with say a 3m flu protruding into the inglenook ? (I.e no need to line the entire chimney as it is clean)

I will try and add pictures.

 

[brenndatomu]

Try opening a nearby window a little bit, see if that helps...could be that the house is now too tight to allow the fireplace makeup air.
Or its possible that it is just not well built and the FP opening is just too big for the size chimney you have...need to make sure the chimney is clean and fully open too.

 

[rainstick]

The chimney is fine ! and swept.
It is exactly as it was in 1700's . There is nothing wrong with the chimney.

It does help if I open the door to the hall. But that then defeats the point in this old house and a cold draught comes in.
note: I uncovered the original inglenook a few years ago. before then there was an awful small fire there sort of 2fr across but it worked fine.
I am sure it is the size of of room and as you say have to have door open and in winter just take the cold draught that ensues.
OR
as i ask. would a Woodburner and a shirt 3m flu work ? (I don't want to line the chimney really due to expense)
whats think ?
the smoke would not come back down that far as it only does when fire on ground

 

[EbS-P]

If going with a log burner a full liner is the way to go. Pay attention to clearances to you wood lintel.

After trying to burn a well drafting open fire then installing a stove I would never go back to open burning.

Dry firewood is a must for any modern stove. Planning ahead for your fuel supply is really important.

 

[rainstick]

Many thanks.
I may invest in one of those wood moisture meters ! But wood I cut down and it probably gets 6 months plus in a garage. Noted on the dry wood though.

Inglenook:
Basically this year due to the cost of living crisis I am going to freeze here. It is essential I sort.

- I really don't want the expense of line the whole chimney. while easy ti's only cost I wanna keep down.

q) what are the negatives then of my method of a multifuel burner and a 3m flu / pipe from burner into the chimney (that is humungous but I perfect swept condition.
This is the way I can afford to do it.
What's think ? issues ?

 

[bholler]

Many thanks.
I may invest in one of those wood moisture meters ! But wood I cut down and it probably gets 6 months plus in a garage. Noted on the dry wood though.

Inglenook:
Basically this year due to the cost of living crisis I am going to freeze here. It is essential I sort.

- I really don't want the expense of line the whole chimney. while easy ti's only cost I wanna keep down.

q) what are the negatives then of my method of a multifuel burner and a 3m flu / pipe from burner into the chimney (that is humungous but I perfect swept condition.
This is the way I can afford to do it.
What's think ? issues ?

If it's humongous it is very possible that a stove may not put enough heat into the chimney to create proper draft and the stove may not work properly. It could also lead to lots of creosote buildup. That can lead to a chimney fire which can be very dangerous in a 1700s chimney

 

[EbS-P]

Many thanks.
I may invest in one of those wood moisture meters ! But wood I cut down and it probably gets 6 months plus in a garage. Noted on the dry wood though.

Inglenook:
Basically this year due to the cost of living crisis I am going to freeze here. It is essential I sort.

- I really don't want the expense of line the whole chimney. while easy ti's only cost I wanna keep down.

q) what are the negatives then of my method of a multifuel burner and a 3m flu / pipe from burner into the chimney (that is humungous but I perfect swept condition.
This is the way I can afford to do it.
What's think ? issues ?

I think we have some terminology differences. I when I referred to a liner I was implying a full length stainless rigid or flexible 6” installation that goes in the existing chimney connects to the heating appliance and terminates at the top of the chimney.

We don’t call it chimney pipe here. We have stove pipe (single and double wall, both are not suitable for install inside the existing chimney) and insulated class A chimney. Both are almost exclusive used when a free standing stove is installed with no preexisting masonry chimney.

 

[begreen]

The log burner will most likely have a flue outlet diameter of 150mm. I don't know what the size of the chimney flue is, but I suspect it is quite large for that sized fireplace opening. If the liner were just a 3m stub the flue gases may lose draft and descend back into the room. That could be deadly. Even in the best case, the flue gases will slow and cool down a lot when dumped into the large flue, causing creosote issues. It needs a full liner of the proper diameter all the way up.

Also, is that a wood lintel at the top of the fireplace opening? Is there exposed wood in the chimney? If so, the liner needs to be insulated to keep the heat away from the exposed wood.

 

[rainstick]

OK you all must assume the chimney is swept ! there will be no chimney fire wood lintel or whatever.

But I can see with what is said I need a liner to the top. it would be a flexible one I'd drop down ..... plenty of room .

When I said pipe I meant my intended 3m liner / flu. But understood that this could be lethal with the large chimney , cold air and gases returning.

BUT one said - " put enouph heat into the chimney to create a proper draught "
Forget the logburner (I know I need to line the chimney now) but I have a 3m × 2m inglenook with a piddly laughable small fire burning in a small grate.
So do you think due to the chimney being cold , small fire , no draught thad why it smokes ?

clearly the chimney is cold it is I assure you.
what do I do about that for a working open fire ? larger fire than my 1ft wide miserly frugal fire ?

How far from opening room door can I make it work as is ?

thanks for info by the way

 

[rainstick]

spelling mistake
"How far from opening room door can I make it work as is ?"

I can't edit above but meant to read how much more can I do from opening room door to make inglenook work as is. ?

 

[rainstick]

Any ideas on what is needed to make a large inglenook not smoke ?
Larger fire ?
Chimney needs to be warm ? how ?
Open window or door. (defeats object long term but to get going I suppose ?

any thoughts be appreciated

 

[begreen]

A bigger fire might help warm up the chimney to the point where it can draft properly if it was designed right. Some fireplaces are not designed well. Regardless, a large fireplace like that will suck the heat out of the room for hours after the fire has died down. If the goal is heating then a stove with a proper flue liner to the top of the chimney will do a much better job and will consume a lot less fuel.

 

[bholler]

Any ideas on what is needed to make a large inglenook not smoke ?
Larger fire ?
Chimney needs to be warm ? how ?
Open window or door. (defeats object long term but to get going I suppose ?

any thoughts be appreciated

Possibly a larger fire possibly lack of makeup air possibly just bad fireplace design from the start which is why it was reduced down at some point. But regardless you aren't going to do much of any heating with and open fireplace

 

[rainstick]

I get it . it is a log burner and fully lined chimney for that inglenook.

I have another question for you guys. I'll take a picture of inglenook no 2. which has a overhead shroud and is sealed around the shroud. chimney nit lined.
this smokes too comes out under the shroud and wandered how to rectify or at least try ?

(the solution I know is a log burner again but is there another way. as this has to work as is or manipulated in some way. to work.

 

[bholler]

I get it . it is a log burner and fully lined chimney for that inglenook.

I have another question for you guys. I'll take a picture of inglenook no 2. which has a overhead shroud and is sealed around the shroud. chimney nit lined.
this smokes too comes out under the shroud and wandered how to rectify or at least try ?

(the solution I know is a log burner again but is there another way. as this has to work as is or manipulated in some way. to work.

View attachment 296425

There are way to many variables for us to give you any information more accurate than we have for the previous one.

 

[bholler]

Btw what you have are fireplaces. Or Ingles. An inglenook is the space or nook around a fireplace. Traditionally a seating area to stay warm

 

[rainstick]

They are most certainly inglenook fireplaces !
Not many variables .... at all.

But ots obvious what to do with inglenook 2.

 

[bholler]

They are most certainly inglenook fireplaces !
Not many variables .... at all.

But ots obvious what to do with inglenook 2.

Ok but a fireplace is a fireplace. And Ingle is just another word for fireplace from Gaelic. I was always taught that an inglenook was a small area around a fireplace. So I looked up the definition and couldn't find anything saying any different. Not that it really matters

 

[EbS-P]

What are the weather conditions when you are trying to burn?

 

[SpaceBus]

You have a beautiful fireplace, but it will be an exercise in frustration if you are trying to use it to heat your home. Those are clearly cooking fireplaces, which is why they are so tall. I bet if there was a constant fire kept going with lots of makeup air coming into the home they do quite well. However over the years your house has been updated and insulated and no longer allows enough makeup air for the fireplaces to operate correctly. Furthermore any fireplace is going to be a net heat loss for the whole home. You mentioned that you can feel the draft if you open a door into the room with the fireplace. This is just how they work. The only way to heat the home using solid fuels is to enclose the fire in a box with an appropriately sized and insulated flue. Fireplaces heat people and food, not homes.

There are some "fireplaces" on the market that can heat a home, but these are just wood stoves with less efficiency.