Log splitter electric start

[Ashful]

A few of you may remember I upgraded my Huskee 22-ton log splitter to run faster cycle times, with a larger 16 GPM pump, and a 344cc Briggs Intek engine to turn the bigger pump. It works well (despite being louder than I'd like), but I realize I'm going to have a heck of a lot of fun trying to pull-start this rig in cold weather.

No problem, I thought ahead, and ordered the engine with electric start and a 16 amp regulated alternator. It could even power accessory lighting, if I ever decide I need to split at night.

So, I'm familiar enough with how to wire up a starter and charging circuit from scratch, if it must be done. I was hoping to find a harness pre-configured for my engine (21R707-0079-F1, also labeled on user manual as "models 210000 310000"), but I don't think it exists. If someone knows how to find it, please let me know.

In lieu of that, I just need some connectors and harness components, to adapt to what's here. First, I need to find the connector that would mate to the DC wire coming off my engine's regulator:



Second, I'd like to find a pigtail harness or connector body to fit the standard Briggs (5411K) 6-pin keyswitch:



Finally, if anyone has any ideas for a panel, housing, or other way of mounting the keyswitch, an ammeter, and an hour meter on a Huskee log splitter, I'm all ears. It sits outdoors, so it must be rain-proof. I'm sure someone has already rigged up similar custom electrics on their own home-brew log splitter, so let's see how you did it! I'd rather not re-invent the wheel from scratch.

 

[Ashful]

Bueller?

 

[brenndatomu]

Bueller?

Hi!
I would think a conversation with a knowledgeable mechanic or parts person at your local small engine shop would get you leads to most of your parts. As for the box to mount it all in, I'd look at Grainger or McMaster Carr for an outdoor rated electrical junction box of some sort...

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Regarding the box, how about a surplus ammo can? It'd be waterproof and rugged, just need to cut/drill the appropriate holes. Plastic versions also available.

 

[Ashful]

Good ideas, and both could work. Still hoping someone is going to come along and point me toward a pre-fab'd box aimed at ATV's or OPE, but in lieu of that...

 

[sportbikerider78]

You're going to waste a lot of time finding all the perfect connectors to use and a perfect harness. Buy something standard and cut off the factory connectors. They are total garbage and will rust outdoors. They use those because they are quick and cheap, not because they are good.

Here is one style that is an industry standard. Deutsch are fantastic. You will need a crimping tool.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3RS64E/?tag=hearthamazon-20



Since this is something you don't use all the time, I'd keep all of your switches inside of this junction box with a latched door. Otherwise you have to get all waterproof switches and mount to the outside of the box. It can be done, just a lot more work, cost and entry points for water egress. This box can still be used.
You want an IP65 junction box like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D8WC2R/?tag=hearthamazon-20


I highly recommend bringing all of your cables in with a standard size (even if all wires in that cable aren't used) and keeping your outside connections with a good cable gland.
https://www.asi-ez.com/member/~3002...LsWeTkFEkcuQAiuHg6LyDcFLKtzZHRPhoCVZMQAvD_BwE


Oh,,,and keep it clean with terminal blocks inside.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CG2HI0E/?tag=hearthamazon-20

 

[Ashful]

You make some good points, sportbikerider78. I used to actually design and build enclosures for wash-down installation, IP67 rated, so nothing new to me, there. The splitter is kept under cover, but outdoors, so it's debatable how much effort needs to go into weather-proofing it. I ordered up a pre-made harness for the key switch yesterday, and I think it has that unique little bullet connector for the Briggs regulator connection on it. I can cut and splice in a 6C cable, to use with a good cable gland, but with the splitter stored under cover, it's probably more work than it's worth.

I like the idea of the covered box, though. A compromise would be to just grommet the cable entry points, and put them on the bottom side of the box, gravity will keep the box drained. I'd also coat all connections in that box with dielectric grease, to keep condensation off.