log splitter gas or electric

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looking at getting a splitter..any pro or cons with gas or electric...I will be splitting ash and elm..thank in advance..ZZZim CROWN on the rocks...ZZZim
 
Get a GAS splitter. My bro has a Timberwolf that I borrow and it works GREAT. If he didn't have it, I would buy the same one.
I was at an old retired guys house the other day. He showed me his electric splitter and how it split. It was a DR brand that could only handle 16"logs. It was soooooo slowwwwwwww. If you don't burn much and the logs are smallish and you have ALOT of time on your hands (like being retired) then check-out the electric, but buy the gas anyway.... You can't split those larger rounds or crotch wood (you know what I mean :red:) You don't want to turn away those larger rounds. You WON'T be sorry! I scrounge for free wood. Everybody grabs the smaller stuff first and I end up getting the main trunk :cheese: ! I love it!
Get a 20+ ton gas and be done with it. Spend all the time saved watching football, drinking beer or both...

And as I understand, elm is REALLY tough to split. That would probably render the electric splitter almost useless.
 
i agree, gas is the way to go, you wont be sorry. watch for good deals from places like tractor supply and such.
 
Ash will split if you look at it harshly but elm that's real tough...even with my gas splitter I have to shave it from the side like if I was hand splitting.
 
I have 28 ton Swisher with 10 1/2 B&S;engine. This thing will split anything I can physically move over to it.! Elm is very tough in the crotch pieces, and Truly I don't think an electric will do the job. Get one that stands up vertically, that has enough guts, and you can split anything that you move over to it and knock over under the wedge! The 36"+ locust we cut at the tree dump finally made it grunt a bit, and we had to run the motor at just under full throttle, but that round was a very large, twisted, snarly, multi-crotch (three different ring circles), piece of very hard, dense, wood. It more cut it, then split it, but it did the job! Anything less, and it would still be at the tree dump. We split allot of elm, some of it larger, and that stuff is tough! Get the largest, most powerful, gas splitter you can almost afford, and you will not regret it!
 
gas would save you a lot of head ackes when doing elm ash is easy enough
 
If you buy gas you wont have to worry about having the right length extension cord. ;-)

Shipper
 
donatello



Get a GAS splitter. My bro has a Timberwolf that I borrow and it works GREAT. If he didn’t have it, I would buy the same one.
I was at an old retired guys house the other day. He showed me his electric splitter and how it split. It was a DR brand that could only handle 16"logs. It was soooooo slowwwwwwww. If you don’t burn much and the logs are smallish and you have ALOT of time on your hands (like being retired) then check-out the electric, but buy the gas anyway.... You can’t split those larger rounds or crotch wood (you know what I mean red face) You don’t want to turn away those larger rounds. You WON’T be sorry! I scrounge for free wood. Everybody grabs the smaller stuff first and I end up getting the main trunk cheese ! I love it!
Get a 20+ ton gas and be done with it. Spend all the time saved watching football, drinking beer or both…

And as I understand, elm is REALLY tough to split. That would probably render the electric splitter almost useless.



jeffman3



I have 28 ton Swisher with 10 1/2 B&S;engine. This thing will split anything I can physically move over to it.! Elm is very tough in the crotch pieces, and Truly I don’t think an electric will do the job. Get one that stands up vertically, that has enough guts, and you can split anything that you move over to it and knock over under the wedge! The 36"+ locust we cut at the tree dump finally made it grunt a bit, and we had to run the motor at just under full throttle, but that round was a very large, twisted, snarly, multi-crotch (three different ring circles), piece of very hard, dense, wood. It more cut it, then split it, but it did the job! Anything less, and it would still be at the tree dump. We split allot of elm, some of it larger, and that stuff is tough! Get the largest, most powerful, gas splitter you can almost afford, and you will not regret it!

I would not base my purchasing decision on what the above two have said because they have only seen the cheap under powered electric splitters perform and not a 240 Volt 5 HP electric splitter which would wipe the floor of a gas powered one easily in a split off duel contest since the torque curve shoots up a like a rocket and is MUCH greater than a gas engine when an induction motor is under heavy loading such as going through a knot in a log. Here is what I mean:

(broken link removed to http://www.ecmweb.com/mag/405ecm08fig2.jpg)

The breakdown torque figure is the important one to look for in an induction motor for hydraulic applications. The higher it is, the better its ability to go through tough wood without stalling.


I say ask for a log splitter without the motor so you can pick your own electric motor to suit your needs.

These motors will do the job and not stall at all. They are available from: www.electricmotorwarehouse.com

Motor torque information is from leeson.com. Price is from electricmotorwarehouse.com.

BDT = Break Down Torque
FLT = Full Load torque
FLRPM = Full Load RPM
HP is calculated as (FLT*FLRPM)/5252


131616
5 HP
BDT = 17.4 FT*LBS
FLT = 7.5 FT*LBS
FLRPM = 3500 RPM
Cost = $462.80

131537
5 HP
BDT = 32.5 FT*LBS
FLT = 15 FT*LBS
FLRPM = 1750 RPM
Cost = $439.40

131778
5 HP
BDT = 19.4 FT*LBS
FLT = 7.5 FT*LBS
FLRPM = 3500 RPM
Cost = $663.00

131543
5 HP
BDT = 35.5 FT*LBS
FLT = 15 FT*LBS
FLRPM = 1740 RPM
Cost = $425.25

140203
5 HP
BDT = 43.5 FT*LBS
FLT = 15 FT*LBS
FLRPM = 1740 PRM
Cost = $511.65

131549
5 HP
BDT = 19.4 FT*LBS
FLT = 7.5 FT*LBS
FLRPM = 3500 RPM
Cost = $581.88


Remember to have the proper pump for the RPM speed of chosen motor. Gas is only advantageous when portability is required.
 
justplain said:
donatello



Get a GAS splitter. My bro has a Timberwolf that I borrow and it works GREAT. If he didn’t have it, I would buy the same one.
I was at an old retired guys house the other day. He showed me his electric splitter and how it split. It was a DR brand that could only handle 16"logs. It was soooooo slowwwwwwww. If you don’t burn much and the logs are smallish and you have ALOT of time on your hands (like being retired) then check-out the electric, but buy the gas anyway.... You can’t split those larger rounds or crotch wood (you know what I mean red face) You don’t want to turn away those larger rounds. You WON’T be sorry! I scrounge for free wood. Everybody grabs the smaller stuff first and I end up getting the main trunk cheese ! I love it!
Get a 20+ ton gas and be done with it. Spend all the time saved watching football, drinking beer or both…

And as I understand, elm is REALLY tough to split. That would probably render the electric splitter almost useless.



jeffman3



I have 28 ton Swisher with 10 1/2 B&S;engine. This thing will split anything I can physically move over to it.! Elm is very tough in the crotch pieces, and Truly I don’t think an electric will do the job. Get one that stands up vertically, that has enough guts, and you can split anything that you move over to it and knock over under the wedge! The 36"+ locust we cut at the tree dump finally made it grunt a bit, and we had to run the motor at just under full throttle, but that round was a very large, twisted, snarly, multi-crotch (three different ring circles), piece of very hard, dense, wood. It more cut it, then split it, but it did the job! Anything less, and it would still be at the tree dump. We split allot of elm, some of it larger, and that stuff is tough! Get the largest, most powerful, gas splitter you can almost afford, and you will not regret it!

I would not base my purchasing decision on what the above two have said because they have only seen the cheap under powered electric splitters perform and not a 240 Volt 5 HP electric splitter which would wipe the floor of a gas powered one easily in a split off duel contest since the torque curve shoots up a like a rocket and is MUCH greater than a gas engine when an induction motor is under heavy loading such as going through a knot in a log. Here is what I mean: .....

.....Remember to have the proper pump for the RPM speed of chosen motor. Gas is only advantageous when portability is required.

I did look at some high end electric splitters when I was looking to buy the one I have. I still think the larger gas splitters are the way to go. In order to need that much power, you are talking about a big heavy piece of wood, more then I, or probably most people, are going to lift into a trailer or bed of a truck. I don't have miles of extension cords laying around the house. So gas is the way for me to go. For example the locust I described in my post had to weigh hundreds of pounds, It was all I could do to roll the thing over, there is no way I could even think about lifting it to the bed of truck.

You are right on, that the high end electrics are just fine, if you don't want to move the splitter around, and can wire a separate breaker for just the splitter, ( big amp draw)
 
"I would not base my purchasing decision on what the above two have said because they have only seen the cheap under powered electric splitters perform and not a 240 Volt 5 HP electric splitter which would wipe the floor of a gas powered one"
I have seen what is readily available to the average consumer. That's right, all I've seen were the cheap underpowered electric splitters... Where can you buy a splitter without the motor, electric or gas? Home Depot,Lowes,Northern Tool? You may be able to, but I haven't seen it. And which splitter (brand and model number)would you use to make this cool franken-splitter? Why not give this info also? Can it be done, Hell yes. But the average guy just wants to split wood and be done with it. The readily available GAS powered splitters are reasonably priced,will pretty much handle any wood you and a buddy can lift onto it,has a warranty,and comes pre-assembled.
"Remember to have the proper pump for the RPM speed of chosen motor." NOW you possibly/probably need a different pump?
How much is that and do you need to make brackets? Is this a direct "bolt-on" to the un-named splitter?
If your electric Franken-splitter was readily available to the average consumer for purchase (pre-assembled) at a competitive price, then you would have a valid point.
Cool graph though...
 
zim said:
looking at getting a splitter..any pro or cons with gas or electric...I will be splitting ash and elm..thank in advance..ZZZim CROWN on the rocks...ZZZim

Awe...if it were only ash. Get a gasser..you are not limited buy any available fuel that way. Some of that elm can be a real nard buster!!!.
 
I have seen what is readily available to the average consumer. That’s right, all I’ve seen were the cheap underpowered electric splitters… Where can you buy a splitter without the motor, electric or gas? Home Depot,Lowes,Northern Tool? You may be able to, but I haven’t seen it. And which splitter (brand and model number)would you use to make this cool franken-splitter? Why not give this info also? Can it be done, Hell yes. But the average guy just wants to split wood and be done with it. The readily available GAS powered splitters are reasonably priced,will pretty much handle any wood you and a buddy can lift onto it,has a warranty,and comes pre-assembled.

The only good electric log splitter I can think of right off is the Ram splitter. I am curious now that you brought it up if they will ship a full unit minus the engine/motor and pump. I'll shoot them an e-mail to find out. Also keep in mind that many consumers in America do not have an easily accessible 240 Volt circuit. If this was in Europe then there would not be any problems selling electric log splitters with appropriate horsepower in the hardware stores.



Remember to have the proper pump for the RPM speed of chosen motor.” NOW you possibly/probably need a different pump?
How much is that and do you need to make brackets? Is this a direct “bolt-on” to the un-named splitter?
If your electric Franken-splitter was readily available to the average consumer for purchase (pre-assembled) at a competitive price, then you would have a valid point.


This requirement is easily satisfied by the fact that the flow rate output (in GPM) of a hydraulic pump is proportional to the radial speed it is turning at. So if a hydraulic pump of 11 GPM is required for a motor that turns 1750 RPM then use a hydraulic pump rated at 22 GPM at 3500 RPM; the result will be the same.

Mounting brackets are readily available from Northern Tools, as are the other parts necessary to build a "Frankenstein" log splitter. The mounting bracket may not be compatible with the electric motor mounting holes, but this is easily mitigated by making an adapter plate out of a slab of aluminum stock with the holes drilled in the appropriate locations.

The average consumer would not want to build a log splitter as you have stated, but it would be a learning experience and fun I think. Plus you have bragging rights. :)
 
Most of the splitters listed in this thread are over kill. I agree on getting a splitter that uses gas. You can tow it in the woods if needed and go to town. I have a 22Ton Huskee gas splitter from Tractor Supply. It has split everything I've thrown at it in the past 3 years. Very.. very happy with it...
 
I am reading some misconceptions about log splitters or hydraulics in general. Horsepower and/or torque have very little to due with how powerful a splitter is. The primary factor for tonnage is cylinder bore size plus max pump pressure. The pressure is usually limited to 3000psi max. by component ratings. A 1hp. motor with matching pump will produce the same tonnage with a 4" cylinder as a 12hp. motor but the 12hp. motor will allow the use of a higher gpm pump that will move the cylinder faster.
The only real benefit of using an electric motor is quiet operation.
 
One thing to keep in mind of the 220/240V electric splitters is cost of operation. I know of an individule that bought one of these and after 4 hours of continueous use, his next monthly electic bill had gone up by $200.

TIFWIW
 
CK-1 said:
Most of the splitters listed in this thread are over kill.....

I guess it depends on the size and toughness of the wood you trying to split. I didn't think I would ever need a heavy duty high tonnage splitter, but once I got it, I found that I could take wood that others wouldn't touch because I could split it and they couldn't. If the diameter of the log is under twice the length of the bar on the saw and I can physically move the round to the splitter, I can process it for the stove! I get wood that others leave because it is a big crotch piece, or just to tough for the equipment they have. It all depends on what you want to split if 28 tons is over kill. I find that it is just right for me. I made it grunt good, and I truly believe a lesser splitter wouldn't have done it. Now that wood is in my rack, dry, and waiting for cold weather. I find that the bigger the round the more splits I can get from it, and the less time I spend running the saw. We can fill the truck with splits in half the time (or less) with really big rounds vs. smaller rounds and stove diameter branches.

I read once that if you have to much splitter you may never know it, but if you don't have enough splitter you will find out in short order. I decided to spend a couple hundred more and take anything I can cut and move, and don't feel, at all, that I bought to much splitter. Love this thing! :cheese:
 
One thing to keep in mind of the 220/240V electric splitters is cost of operation. I know of an individule that bought one of these and after 4 hours of continueous use, his next monthly electic bill had gone up by $200.

TIFWIW


This does not validate your argument that the operating cost of an electric log splitter is more expensive than gas. In actuality the price per kilo-watt hour is a few cents for your electrical energy bill compared to the cost per kilo-watt hour of chemical energy (the fuel) of what your gas splitter uses based on price of fuel. Let's not forget either that your gas engine will only be at best 35% efficient so its fuel consumption will be greater than the electrical energy consumption of the electric log splitter.

If you don't believe me then run the math yourself. Look at your energy bill and see how much they charge you per kilo-watt hour. Then find how many kilo-watt hours is in gasoline to find cost per kilo-watt hour.

Anyways, the majority of people will say an electric log splitter lacks portability since you are limited in range of the drop cord which is a true statement and the ones in the hardware stores are underpowered Chinese junk. Also they do not sell the premium ones (with the 3 to 7.5 HP American made motors) in hardware stores. One could also argue the initial cost if the premium versions were available. Those are the only negatives of electric. Everything else is zilch.
 
jeffman3 said:
CK-1 said:
Most of the splitters listed in this thread are over kill.....

I guess it depends on the size and toughness of the wood you trying to split. I didn't think I would ever need a heavy duty high tonnage splitter, but once I got it, I found that I could take wood that others wouldn't touch because I could split it and they couldn't. If the diameter of the log is under twice the length of the bar on the saw and I can physically move the round to the splitter, I can process it for the stove! I get wood that others leave because it is a big crotch piece, or just to tough for the equipment they have. It all depends on what you want to split if 28 tons is over kill. I find that it is just right for me. I made it grunt good, and I truly believe a lesser splitter wouldn't have done it. Now that wood is in my rack, dry, and waiting for cold weather. I find that the bigger the round the more splits I can get from it, and the less time I spend running the saw. We can fill the truck with splits in half the time (or less) with really big rounds vs. smaller rounds and stove diameter branches.

I read once that if you have to much splitter you may never know it, but if you don't have enough splitter you will find out in short order. I decided to spend a couple hundred more and take anything I can cut and move, and don't feel, at all, that I bought to much splitter. Love this thing! :cheese:

Before purchasing my 22Ton, I did a lot of research here and at other sites. Compared costs of 22Tons thru 30Tons and saw a price difference I wasn't willing to invest in. Huskee does sell a 35 and 27Ton models, but they were too expensive for my taste.

I've split rounds around 4 foot wide with this thing with no problems. Rounds with big branches on the side thats notted up.. no problem. Once you split enough wood with your machine, you come up with a system to split effeciently. I'm sure I can hang with the 27Ton and over machines any day... :coolgrin:
 
If it works for you, and splits what you feed it, that's all anyone can want. :-) I guess that's why they make so many different makes and models. It boils down to, you use a mid to heavy tonnage gas splitter, so do I, and would recommend them to zim, the original poster of this thread, and I have a sense that you would too. A high end electric may very well work for some, but it doesn't suit my needs and I recommend a gas splitter, because it does suit my needs. I think this has been a very good exchange, and hashing out, of this controversial subject.

I have always believed that if you avoid certain subjects, you will avoid most fights. I think I need to add to that saying. Avoid talking about another man's, wife, politics, religion, and splitter/saw. (or does that last one move into the religion category?) :)
 
justplain said:
One thing to keep in mind of the 220/240V electric splitters is cost of operation. I know of an individule that bought one of these and after 4 hours of continueous use, his next monthly electic bill had gone up by $200.

TIFWIW


This does not validate your argument that the operating cost of an electric log splitter is more expensive than gas. In actuality the price per kilo-watt hour is a few cents for your electrical energy bill compared to the cost per kilo-watt hour of chemical energy (the fuel) of what your gas splitter uses based on price of fuel. Let's not forget either that your gas engine will only be at best 35% efficient so its fuel consumption will be greater than the electrical energy consumption of the electric log splitter.

If you don't believe me then run the math yourself. Look at your energy bill and see how much they charge you per kilo-watt hour. Then find how many kilo-watt hours is in gasoline to find cost per kilo-watt hour.

Anyways, the majority of people will say an electric log splitter lacks portability since you are limited in range of the drop cord which is a true statement and the ones in the hardware stores are underpowered Chinese junk. Also they do not sell the premium ones (with the 3 to 7.5 HP American made motors) in hardware stores. One could also argue the initial cost if the premium versions were available. Those are the only negatives of electric. Everything else is zilch.

Interesting post.....however I never attempted to make any arguement one way or another. Did you see something in my post that no one else did?

I merely stated that anyone considering an electric splitter be aware of the operating costs. $200 for four hours worth of use vs $10 of gas for the same amount of time is fairly significant. You can throw all the math at it you want, but the fact remains most folks would be quite surprised when their electric bill showed up.

Nothing more......nothing less.
 
I merely stated that anyone considering an electric splitter be aware of the operating costs. $200 for four hours worth of use vs $10 of gas for the same amount of time is fairly significant. You can throw all the math at it you want, but the fact remains most folks would be quite surprised when their electric bill showed up.

Nothing more......nothing less.


The problem is this is a false statement without any evidence to prove you are right. It does not cost $200 to run an electric log splitter for 4 hours at all if you at least attempt to run the math for your self. Try not to be one so those people who take ones word as true information without doing your own investigation.

If it is 5 Hp then that is 3,730 watts. Single phase induction motors are 75% - 85% efficient (3-phase motors are 80% - 98%), but I will prove to you that even at 75% efficiency it will still not be $200. So the total power demanded is 4,973 watts at 75% efficiency. At 4 hours of operation that is 19.892 Kilowatt hours (or 19,892 watt-hours). Now we look up the average cost per kilowatt hour in your area found here: (broken link removed). I picked Connecticut as they are the most expensive at 19.53 cents per kilowatt hour for residential. So at at this rate the total cost of operating a 5 HP electric log splitter for 4 hours is $3.88.
 
Granted I don't want to be one of those "I heard from my brother's, aunt's hair dresser's uncle that so and so......"

Anyway's here's the link I read it from. Sounds like there may of been something wired wrong so the claim of $200 for running a 220 electric splitter (especially a new one) for four hours is probably false.

http://www.sledmaine.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1220876600

You seem to be quite enamoured with electric splitters so I don't want you thinking I'm attempting to belittel them.

I'd never own one......but hey, thats just me. :roll:
 
I'm not an electric splitter guy either, but I am pretty sure you could run a 200HP electric splitter for 4 hours for 200 bucks. Yes, I did say 200HP.
 
Jags said:
I'm not an electric splitter guy either, but I am pretty sure you could run a 200HP electric splitter for 4 hours for 200 bucks. Yes, I did say 200HP.

In rough numbers, 200 HP would work out to about $36 an hour (at .15/kwh) or about $144 for that 4 hour run. You would need about 240 amps of 480/3 phase to do it. Since I don't think I have ever seen a single phase motor over 10 HP, this is pretty much an impossibility. If I sunk my entire 200 amp service into a load bank, it would only cost me about $7 an hour to do it.

Operating cost isn't the biggest reason to consider an electric splitter, but it is icing on the cake. If you are even considering an electric, you have already thought about the power supply issue. If you really need a splitter out in the middle of nowhere, a gas splitter is tops. If you are like me and always split near home, electric is a worthy contender. Usefulness is about the same as someone noted because you don't really need a 35 ton machine to split 95% of the wood you are going to run into.

The electric is quiet, clean, efficient, simple, powerful and quiet. Did I mention quiet? I have done about 3 cords on the Ram and only hit 2 pieces that wouldn't split first time. Both pieces were a maple knot that had been cut into a huge chunk that would probably choked a bigger machine anyway. I chipped away at one of them and it eventually succumbed. The other I saved as a seat for splitting in the vertical position.

Those of you that have gas splitters be thankful for the power. I won't miss it, but I also won't miss the noise, fumes, running out of gas and starting headaches of a gas splitter. If I really wanted to run it in the woods, I would borrow a portable generator as I have more friends with those than splitters. ;-P

(broken link removed to http://www.ramsplitter.com/Electric) Splitters.htm

Chris

edit: somehow that link didn't come through. See:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/18715/
 
Chris - sorry if my post was misleading. It was simply to refute the idea that running an electric splitter for a few hours was going to raise the electric bill by such a large sum of bucks.

Electric splitters have their place, not at my place :-) , but I am sure somewhere. The Ramsplitter looks like a capable machine, but depending on a persons splitting logistics, will not be useful in many situations. The same can be said of a gasser (garage use, night time use, etc.).
 
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