looking for a new stove for next winter
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![[Hearth.com] looking for a new stove for next winter](/talk/data/attachments/92/92449-f86bac68c6a43b8bf9e07ebacc71a498.jpg?hash=790B22m3QM)
First time I have seen one. You certainly won't be able to install one like the picture shows. With no EPA or UL testing it is a completely uncertified stove. Call your insurance agent first. And plan on 36" clearances all around. As far as how it will burn or perform, no idea. The website doesn't say much about internal design and you only have the maker's word on warranty and performance.
I would pass on this stove with the lack of EPA and UL certs, he does not give any figures on the stove, just says it "sips" wood. I guess the same could be said of an old non-epa Fisher papa bear if you let it create a ton of creosote while the wood smoulders.
Much better stoves can be had in that price range.
Much better stoves can be had in that price range.
Indeed, it is and thanks for posting. It could be a decent heater. I have no idea. Seems light weight. I'd want to know more about the interior construction, baffling etc. before considering.
PS: Welcome to hearth.com
Last month it was very cold here in CT and I have a feeling it is not heating very well. A lot hot coals I mean half the firebox after a night burn. We only heating 1100sqft.
What's your wood supply like? Sounds like it's wet.
That stove should be able to run you out of 1100 sq ft.
Wood is all dry and at least 2 years old. I was thinking the same thing. It didn't bother me last year we had a warm winter.
I know the house has some draft I need to replace the siding but still. After every night I have to open the door to burn the coals down.
I know the house has some draft I need to replace the siding but still. After every night I have to open the door to burn the coals down.
Yes, this sounds like it may be sub-seasoned wood could be the problem. Tell us more about the wood supply. How long ago was is split and stacked? What species wood?
It has been split 2 years ago and stacked this summer. All mix hardwoods
I use softwood for the day time
I use softwood for the day time
It could be that some of the wood sat on the ground too long and is still damp on the inside. If you have an axe or maul, try resplitting a few splits and press the freshly split face of the wood against your cheek. If it feels cold and damp, that is at least part of the problem.
How much flue is on the stove from stove top to stove cap? And how do you run the stove as far as the air control setting goes? Also, do you have a thermometer on the stove top?
How much flue is on the stove from stove top to stove cap? And how do you run the stove as far as the air control setting goes? Also, do you have a thermometer on the stove top?
Foragefarmer
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The melting point of aluminum is 1220 F. The lowest melting point of iron is about 2100 F. I think you could over fire that stove and melt it.
Ok will try that. Pipe from stove to chimney few feet than up the chimney I would say 15ft. Control set low for overnight burn and I have 2 thermometers
The flue height is right at the threshold, but may be ok if it is straight up, 6" all the way. If there are 90º turns in the flue path, it might not be tall enough. Can you describe the setup in detail?
What sort of temps do you normally see on the stove top?
What sort of temps do you normally see on the stove top?
day temp around 500 if I keep the fire going after that it drops quick almost back to the black part.
Stove pipe is 3ft tall and than 90 degree elbow
Stove pipe is 3ft tall and than 90 degree elbow
Tell us about the chimney. Does it have a stainless 6" liner or is it unlined? If unlined, what are the inside dimensions?
I was thinking to get some how air into the back of the stove. That is where most of my coals are.
That is pretty typical, most of the air comes in from the front. Have you tried taking your stovetop up to 600F during colder weather? Do you open up the air a bit, late in the burn cycle to burn down the coals?
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