Looking to buy a Quadrafire 5700 wood stove to heat my 2400 sq foot house. Currently have a Osburn 1800 and it is in the basement and may be a bit too small to keep up heating the house. Am going to look at a used Quadrafire 5700 wood stove and am seeing some concerns with metal issues. Should I shy away from the Quadrafire 5700 and is there a particular area to inspect for metal damage, and lastly are only certain areas afflicted with the problem?
Looking to buy a Quadrafire 5700 wood stove
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There were some issues with the secondary rack welds in some of the early 5700s that were run hot. Remove the side panels and look at the area where the secondary manifold attaches. Do you know how old the stove is?
The Quad 5700 Step Top is designed very closely to the Lopi Liberty. Both will move lots of convection air even without the blower turned on.
Other stoves deserving honorable mention are Englander now owned by the same company who owns Drolet and Osburn.
Kuma stoves
Buck stoves (lots of bang for the Buck…pun intended…well made stoves)
Any of the used Quads I’ve looked at must have been ones with issues and/or over-fired. I attribute most of what I’ve seen to abuse, but I do question the seemingly short life of their choice of fire bricks. However, bricks are cheap and easy to replace.
I love the way the 5700 is made and would love the opportunity to use one for awhile, but as with many of the larger stoves price is certainly something I’d look at. To me, any Buck stove and/or any SBI stove offered are very well made and priced right…better bang for your buck…new or used.
Other stoves deserving honorable mention are Englander now owned by the same company who owns Drolet and Osburn.
Kuma stoves
Buck stoves (lots of bang for the Buck…pun intended…well made stoves)
Any of the used Quads I’ve looked at must have been ones with issues and/or over-fired. I attribute most of what I’ve seen to abuse, but I do question the seemingly short life of their choice of fire bricks. However, bricks are cheap and easy to replace.
I love the way the 5700 is made and would love the opportunity to use one for awhile, but as with many of the larger stoves price is certainly something I’d look at. To me, any Buck stove and/or any SBI stove offered are very well made and priced right…better bang for your buck…new or used.
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Hi Folks, I was able to get a picture of the sticker on the back of the stove and it was built 08-2002. Is that considered an early model or late model and perhaps someone might know when and what changes were made during the production lines.
That's an early one and yes they had issues with the manifolds cracking but they have repair kits and they are still good stoves. Pull the side shields and check the sides of the body for cracks. Otherwise as long as the price is right I wouldn't be scared of it
I'm pretty sure the 2002 model was with the ACT system. The ACC version came about 6 or 7 yrs later IIRC. It's a serious heating machine. Given that the stove is over 20 yrs old, the price should be low. Also look for sagging or cracked secondary tubes and worn-out firebrick. Both are replaceable, but the cost should be deducted.
Hi Folks, going to look at it on Saturday. Where specifically should I be looking for any cracks? I want to be as thorough as I can but not an wood stove expert inspector by any means. Have owned all the Fisher stoves from the baby Bear to the Moma bear and have currently Osburn 1800 that may be a bit undersized to heat a 2400 square foot house from the basement. Any pics of specific details would be be appreciated. I called several Quadra fire dealers today for some historical data and the best they can give me is the stove is 20 years old which is already a given....
Just take extra pair of eyes with you and a good flash light. That light and two pairs of eyes you should be ok.
I saw the stove and will post some pictures. Perhaps those of you familiar with this unit may be able to guide me in it's overall condition. Surface rust, a broken door handle...not sure how expensive that is to replace? It is a 2002 year model. Also I will put this on an existing hearth if I buy it, but does anyone have suggestions on how to pull this big heavy stove back from the hook up pipes to clean it out 2 X a year? I am concerned that it weighs around 400 lbs and would most like damage the tiles and pulling 400 lbs back and forth twice a year to clean it out may get old. Is there anything folks put between the stove bottom and the hearth to facilitate reducing the friction and impending damage?
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The handle is about $70
The stove doesn't look too bad but can't really see the typical problem areas.
Why would you have to move the stove out every year?
The stove doesn't look too bad but can't really see the typical problem areas.
Why would you have to move the stove out every year?
I would need to disconnect the stove pipe from the stove to clean the chimney pipes and connecting pipes
Did you pull the side shields and check main stove body for cracks as BHoller suggested? I see you answered this while I was typing.
I see BHoller has posted, so there’s the cost to fix the handle for $70. I’d be sure nothing is wrong with the door itself because the price goes up from there.
I wouldn’t want to steer you wrong, so I’ll defer to BHoller, but those bricks don’t look like the current pumice bricks they now use. I’m sure Ben will know if they’re the correct bricks or not. I believe the lighter pumice bricks have different properties than the more dense clay bricks. He can tell you if it matters.
Unless that stove is going to cost you less than $300 I personally would pass because of the known issues. Not saying it isn’t worth more, rather it wouldn’t be worth more to me. For someone else $700-$900 might be a better figure.
I’d want the newer ACC version, but that’s because I’m more familiar with the newer model.
I’d also want a working blower, even though the design will move plenty of air on it’s own. Seems I recall Quad saying stove must be used with the blower though…which I find odd…and if true I’d want the Lopi Liberty stove instead. Once again, Ben may know and may be able to confirm if the blower “must” be used when burning the stove.
I see BHoller has posted, so there’s the cost to fix the handle for $70. I’d be sure nothing is wrong with the door itself because the price goes up from there.
I wouldn’t want to steer you wrong, so I’ll defer to BHoller, but those bricks don’t look like the current pumice bricks they now use. I’m sure Ben will know if they’re the correct bricks or not. I believe the lighter pumice bricks have different properties than the more dense clay bricks. He can tell you if it matters.
Unless that stove is going to cost you less than $300 I personally would pass because of the known issues. Not saying it isn’t worth more, rather it wouldn’t be worth more to me. For someone else $700-$900 might be a better figure.
I’d want the newer ACC version, but that’s because I’m more familiar with the newer model.
I’d also want a working blower, even though the design will move plenty of air on it’s own. Seems I recall Quad saying stove must be used with the blower though…which I find odd…and if true I’d want the Lopi Liberty stove instead. Once again, Ben may know and may be able to confirm if the blower “must” be used when burning the stove.
I have been pulling the Osburn away from the chimney and cleaning the pipes going to the stove and then of course upwards into the chimney. Could I use the clean out access door to clean the chimney and leave the stove connected?
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It does have a working blower on it, but looking carefully at the pictures I see some significant rusting on thatheat exchanger unit, coupled with the wrong bricks perhaps and door handle....I may just keep the Osburn 1800 another season and make sure I am using a moisture meter to get the best seasoned wood into it to see if that increases my burn time / heat.
Bricks don’t coat much, but the rear bricks will have pre-drilled holes for secondary and tertiary air. I’ve not been impressed with what I’ve seen of the bricks in hundreds if these for sale. Generally they’re toast. Now whether or not that is from long use or abuse (frequent over heating of the stove) I can’t say and will again defer to BHoller.
Rust on air tubes from a stove sitting for awhile isn’t much concern for me. Replacement costs might be a concern. Hard for me to see the tubes well enough on this phone. BHoller will likely know if these meed replacing and oerhaps a ballpark price to replace.
Stoves of this design naturally move a ton of heated air. If it has a working blower that is a plus. Not working figure $300-$400 replacement cost as a stab in the dark. The blower for your SBI stove costs much less than the Quad or my Lopi Liberty…which by the way on the outside is nearly identical to that Quad.
Rust on air tubes from a stove sitting for awhile isn’t much concern for me. Replacement costs might be a concern. Hard for me to see the tubes well enough on this phone. BHoller will likely know if these meed replacing and oerhaps a ballpark price to replace.
Stoves of this design naturally move a ton of heated air. If it has a working blower that is a plus. Not working figure $300-$400 replacement cost as a stab in the dark. The blower for your SBI stove costs much less than the Quad or my Lopi Liberty…which by the way on the outside is nearly identical to that Quad.
If your SBI stove (Osburn 1800) isn’t enough consider a bigger unit of the same brand if you’re satisfied with the 1800 with exception of size. Otherwise the big Regency or Blaze King will offer longer burns, as will a 5700 newer model.
That’s all I have.
That’s all I have.
Greetings.
I came here today (Christmas 2023) to search for problems with the Quadrafire 5700. I’ve had two. The first one cracked along the left side panel. This was evident by removing the fire brick. My second one is now behaving oddly, sometimes burning uncontrollably as though air is leaking inside the box. I’ve replaced the door gasket and it’s doing its job. I’ve checked the ash trapdoor and it too is intact and sealing.
Good, bad or indifferent I wanted more control of air so I installed a flu damper. When it’s closed smoke billows from under the top plate. This leads me to believe that a crack has developed in the upper box above the re-burn tubes and insulation. I’m not sure what the fix for this is but it’s something that you should be aware of if purchasing a used one or even buying a new one. Does anyone here know if this can be remedied?
Try to find a crack. Without anything more than speculation that there is a crack, it’s hard to give advice on whether there is a remedy.
For a close inspection, remove the outer, side panels. Look for crack or burnthru at the level of the seconday manifold on each side.
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