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The readings are confusing. The catalyst and flue temperatures are the reverse of where I would expect them to be at. The flue is too hot and the cat is on the low side. Were the readings taken with the bypass open?
These temps are when the damper is open and I'm building up to the temperature I need to be at to engage the cat. The cat thermometer and the stove top thermometer are pretty close, so I'm not worried about them. I can get them up in the 800-900 range easy. The condar —18" above the stove on double pipe is out of wack! Wondering if it is a bad one...bought directly from condar.
These temps are when the damper is open and I'm building up to the temperature I need to be at to engage the cat. The cat thermometer and the stove top thermometer are pretty close, so I'm not worried about them. I can get them up in the 800-900 range easy. The condar —18" above the stove on double pipe is out of wack! Wondering if it is a bad one...bought directly from condar.
That explains it. The stove pipe temp looks right if the bypass is open. Most of the heat is going directly up the flue. Engaging the bypass should cause the flue temp to go down and the cat temp to come up.
I have a feeling you are leaving the bypass open too long and burning through most of the load of wood trying to get the cat to 800-900 before closing the bypass. I’d close that bypass right about the 500 degree mark on the digital catalytic gauge. Then after it climbs to about 800 or so you could close the air down some. Then as it gets to 1000-1200 you could set the air control where you want it.
Yeah all the heat is going straight up the flue while your in bypass. I would close the bypass at 500-600 flue temps and start adjusting the air control down in stages keeping those flue temps in that range. The cat temp will lag behind flue temps especially while in the bypass mode. After bypass is closed the cat temp and stove temps will climb. With your dry wood the whole process to get your stove up and cruising should take about 15-30 minutes.