Magnum Baby CountrySide-AC powered Control Panel - FS Wood pellet stove does not stay lit? Fixed!!

[jrsdws]

I don't use the igniter. I fill a mason jar with pellets and squirt just enough charcoal lighter fluid to saturate all when shaken and keep it on hand for lighting. It only takes the equivalent of a handful or two in the pot...lay a match on it...close door and start stove in manual. The fire spreads across and takes off every time.

On heat level 1: auger trim setting high will also light up light #5, auger trim setting low will light up light #4, and auger trim on "normal" you will only see the #1 light on.

 

[SWNH]

This morning, I ordered a new pellet-only firepot from AES. Since their delivery times are very slow (it's been 2 hrs since I ordered and it's not here yet... :ahhh: ), I decided to modify the existing firepot (why not? I'm not going to use it again.) I welded the top two rows of holes closed and it's burning now. I can already see the difference in performance.

Hmmm....might have to cancel that order.

Called and canceled my order. My modified pot works fine. Been running at level 5 for 10hrs now. Fire pot is at the same level when it was at 1 hr. No ash build up like before and my basement is now 78F. Sweet! Now let's see if it'll stay burning at level 1...

What level was it working on?

Please let me know if it stays lit on level 1. Thanks

Was running on level 2 for a few hours. No problem. Just turned it down to level 1 (no trim adjustment made) and will let it run thru the night and report back tomorrow.

Ran fine all night on feed level 1 (default auger trim). Level of ash hasn't changed. Still around the 1/4 level. I believe my issues with this stove have been addressed. Oh, and the ash pan door passed the dollar bill test.

What I don't understand is why there is a "floor" in the ash pot. If it was open, ash passing thru the fire pot could fall straight down to the ash PAN.

 

[DexterDay]

Pot has to be sealed. So air flow is forced through the burn pot holes. Without it being sealed, there would be minimal pressure through the pot and stove wouldnt burn.

All pots are a sealed system. No matter the model. Has to sit in a liner (of sorts, depends on model how it is).

Ash oan is for fly ash mainly. You can "scoop" the ash out of the pot and throw it over. But for the most part, fly-ash.

 

[SWNH]

Pot has to be sealed. So air flow is forced through the burn pot holes. Without it being sealed, there would be minimal pressure through the pot and stove wouldn't burn.

All pots are a sealed system. No matter the model. Has to sit in a liner (of sorts, depends on model how it is).

Ash pan is for fly ash mainly. You can "scoop" the ash out of the pot and throw it over. But for the most part, fly-ash.

Makes sense, I guess.

I do miss my old bottom feed Earthstove. Never had to do anything to that other than empty the ash pan every few days. Never shut it down to do that, either...just a "hot-swap" of one pan for another. The feed auger just pushed everything out of the way with great impunity.

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Thanks everyone, I will check out all those items today and report back. I will pick up some starting gel for my friend in case we have to wait a few days for a new ignitor. 175 watts for the ignitor is very low. I bet a 200 watt igniter would work so much better.

J-Takeman said "A bad igniter could read “0†for open or “OL†for shorts. Also some bad ones could read high(usually will blow the fuse) or some could read low(weak and probably only half will get hot). If it doesn’t read the proper value(or darned close) toss it. "

I suspect this igniter to be weak since it does smoke the pellets. Oh well I will see.


I am guessing it should read about 50 ohms

Since P = V x I

I = P/V so 175 Watts /120 Volts = 1.458 amps

Therefore

R = V / I

So

120 Volts / 1.458 amps = 82 ohms to be more exact

Is that right?

 

[ChandlerR]

I've been enjoying this thread! Even though I have no real issue with my stove, I think I will bring my burn pot into work and TIG the top row of holes. Can't see a downside to that.

SWNH, the burn pot sits in it's own sealed chamber. If the bottom of the pot had holes in it, the ask wouldn't fall to the ash pan, it would stay in that little chamber.

I agree that this is a nice stove to work on.....not the best design, but it works well for me. Keep the tips coming and Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah!

Chan

 

[DexterDay]

I've been enjoying this thread! Even though I have no real issue with my stove, I think I will bring my burn pot into work and TIG the top row of holes. Can't see a downside to that.

SWNH, the burn pot sits in it's own sealed chamber. If the bottom of the pot had holes in it, the ask wouldn't fall to the ash pan, it would stay in that little chamber.

I agree that this is a nice stove to work on.....not the best design, but it works well for me. Keep the tips coming and Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah!

Chan

Your stove will be like night and day once you do that to the burn pot.

My suggestion would be to use High Temp 3M tape on the "non fire side" of the pot (outside) and cover just 1 row 1st, then try the 2nd row later. Once you get it fine tuned, then tig weld it.

Your stove will no longer build up pellets in tue pot. My buddy (barnyard840x) can run his Baby for 2 weeks without touching it. Before he couldnt go 24 hours without emptying or stirring the pot.

More airflow = Better combustion. Your ash will be a much, much lighter color. The firebox will be grey instead of black and the damper will actually have to be used to some effect (depends how many holes get covered).

Or just buy the Cast Pellet Pot. My buddy intends to do that soon.

Let us know how much better the burn is CWR. And like I said, do something less permanent 1st to test. High temp tape worked well for him. For over 2 weeks before we welded. Just to make sure.

 

[Don2222]

Yes Don. You are correct. The switch is almost on the blower itself. You can jumper it, to bypass. But dont leave it like that. Only do it to troubleshoot and find your problem.

The snap disc may be loose, or it could be bad all together. Either way, dont leave it jumpered (Not safe).

Hi Dexter

Well if the Low Limit (Proof of Fire) snap disk mounted on the exhaust is jumpered out the stove will keep running because the switch connection will be closed.
Note: POF is a normally open switch but closes at 140 degrees F and stays closed above that temp.

So if the POF is jumpered out it will not open up again when the stove is turned off.

I believe the exhaust blower and convection blower may not shut down properly after the stove cools down.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Yes Don. You are correct. The switch is almost on the blower itself. You can jumper it, to bypass. But dont leave it like that. Only do it to troubleshoot and find your problem.

The snap disc may be loose, or it could be bad all together. Either way, dont leave it jumpered (Not safe).

Hi Dexter

Well if the Low Limit (Proof of Fire) snap disk mounted on the exhaust is jumpered out the stove will keep running because the switch connection will be closed.
Note: POF is a normally open switch but closes at 140 degrees F and stays closed above that temp.

So if the POF is jumpered out it will not open up again when the stove is turned off so the igniter will not turn off and be on all the time the stove is running.

Also I believe the exhaust blower and convection blower may not shut down properly after the stove cools down.

Don the igniter gets shut off by a timer as well as the POF, otherwise it would run during normal operation.

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Just found a thread on how long the Magnum Baby Countrside Igniter usually lasts!!

See Auto Igniter
(broken link removed)


Auto Igniter Problem

Postby kyle_7659 on Wed Nov 30, 2011 4:44 pm

My stove would not auto-ignite last night! I have a baby countryside that is on its 4th winter, and I was wondering if the igniter is a part that wears out, or if I have some other issue. The pot will continue to fill with pellets during the start up cycle, so this is the only thing that I can think of. If igniters wear out, what is the typical life of one?
Thanks.

Re: Auto Igniter Solution

Postby magicmike on Thu Dec 01, 2011 11:48 am

The life expectancy of an igniter is based on how many times a day it is used, if the firepot is kept clean, if the grounding and polarity of the electrical circuit is correct. Getting 4 years out of an igniter is fantastic. Typically 2-3 years would be average.

To test, get out your voltage meter and test to see if full voltage is going to the igniter. If it is, then the igniter is probably toast. You can check the condition of the igniter by using an Ohm meter and test for resistance. If there is none, it is bad. You can order a replacement igniter onliner off of the ECOM store at http://www.magnumheat.com.

Manual
BC-Igniter
Magnum Baby Countryside Auto-Light system, complete assembly
Price $125

Web Site https://www.americanenergysystems.com/electricalcomponents.cfm
BC2500 Auto Ignition System, Complete Kit
Models: MagnuM Baby Countryside AC, MagnuM Baby Countryside DC, MagnuM Winchester AC, MagnuM Winchester AC Fireplace Insert, MagnuM Winchester DC, MagnuM Winchester DC Fireplace Insert $87.00

Or

RP2009 Auto Igniter, Replacement
Models: MagnuM Baby Countryside AC, MagnuM Baby Countryside DC, MagnuM Winchester AC, MagnuM Winchester AC Fireplace Insert, MagnuM Winchester DC, MagnuM Winchester DC Fireplace Insert $64.00

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Thanks Smokey, yes that is right most igniters are on an approx 10 or 15 min timer

Also I wanted to address the Red Wire not connected in this thread that there was no answer for.
Magnum Baby Countryside Installed and Running
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/83873/

There is one on this stove too. It could be for the optional Pot Stirrer Motor for corn but it was NOT!
This stove does not have an ignitor so the Red & White Wires laying there are for an ignitor.
There is a dummy under the pot that looks like an igniter and feels like an igniter but no wires coming out the back of it!!


Does anyone else have a red wire not clipped on to anything on the right side of their stove?

 

[ChandlerR]

Dexter...that's a good idea. Where can I get the tape, Home Depot? It sounds like high temp duct tape (Not duct tape, duct tape) it's aluminum, right?

Chan

 

[DexterDay]

Dexter...that's a good idea. Where can I get the tape, Home Depot? It sounds like high temp duct tape (Not duct tape, duct tape) it's aluminum, right?

Chan

Yep. Aluminum High Temp tape. Most hardware stores carry it. The stuff I have is made by 3M. But there are others out there.

Just to be sure you dont over do it. Better to test to see if you like the results. Im sure your gonna like not messing with the pot. My buddies burns about as good as my Quadrafire. As far as the flame, ash color, and burn, its 100 times better than it was before. And not having to deal with an overflowing pot is nice. I dont know how he put up with it. He finally took my advise after a few weeks. He has never been happier.

 

[SWNH]

SWNH, the burn pot sits in it's own sealed chamber. If the bottom of the pot had holes in it, the ask wouldn't fall to the ash pan, it would stay in that little chamber.

Chan

I was talking about that "little chamber". If *THAT* had an open bottom, ashes from the perforated fire POT would just drop in the ash PAN.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

SWNH, the burn pot sits in it's own sealed chamber. If the bottom of the pot had holes in it, the ask wouldn't fall to the ash pan, it would stay in that little chamber.

Chan

I was talking about that "little chamber". If *THAT* had an open bottom, ashes from the perforated fire POT would just drop in the ash PAN.

Ayuh, and that's what I say about my stove as well.

 

[jrsdws]

SWNH, the burn pot sits in it's own sealed chamber. If the bottom of the pot had holes in it, the ask wouldn't fall to the ash pan, it would stay in that little chamber.

Chan

I was talking about that "little chamber". If *THAT* had an open bottom, ashes from the perforated fire POT would just drop in the ash PAN.

If that little chamber had an open bottom, though, you'd draw air from everywhere but through the burn pot where you need it. The chamber that the pot sits in forces the combustion air through the holes in the burn pot, thus giving you the good, complete burn.

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Well I finally got the stove running today!!

There is no Real Ignitor, just a Dummy!!

So the problem was a Bad POF Proof of Fire or Low Limit 140 Degree F switch on the exhaust blower housing. To prove it I made a little jumper wire with male clips on each end and bypassed the switch.

Sure enough, after starting the fire the auger did not stop and it kept on going! Dexter you guessed right!

But this time the Fire was HOPPING !! She said what are those sparks flying around?? She never saw those before!! I said that is how it should work!! Also there is more heat coming out of the heat exchanger!!

See old and new ash pan gasket pics and the Culprit POF switch below
Click to enlarge.

 

[ChandlerR]

Great news Don! Glad you guys got it working well. I had a high limit switch go on mine last year...Bought a new one from Graingers. I wish I had read your first post more carefully. I have the dummy ignitor....That also explains the red wires, right?

I taped the top holes on my burn pot but I've only been able to run it on low so far. It's 36 out but the stove on low keeps the house way above 70 and DW doesn't like to be too hot


Chan

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Don see if you can find a source for a ceramic pof, they usually put those whatever ones to shame.

 

[Don2222]

Great news Don! Glad you guys got it working well. I had a high limit switch go on mine last year...Bought a new one from Graingers. I wish I had read your first post more carefully. I have the dummy ignitor....That also explains the red wires, right?

I taped the top holes on my burn pot but I've only been able to run it on low so far. It's 36 out but the stove on low keeps the house way above 70 and DW doesn't like to be too hot


Chan

Yes Chan, that really explains the red and white wires. In fact you may want to install your own igniter yourself for short money!

Now that we know it is 175 watts and Scott's Ignitor heaven for $21.00 then you can through away all your starting fluids!!

Igniter Heaven
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/78371/

 

[Don2222]

Great news Don! Glad you guys got it working well. I had a high limit switch go on mine last year...Bought a new one from Graingers. I wish I had read your first post more carefully. I have the dummy ignitor....That also explains the red wires, right?

I taped the top holes on my burn pot but I've only been able to run it on low so far. It's 36 out but the stove on low keeps the house way above 70 and DW doesn't like to be too hot


Chan

Hi Chan

Did you do the dollar bill test on your ash pan gasket? The one on this stove was so bad it would fail the Buffalo Nickel test

The new gasket in the pic above works Fantastic!!

 

[Don2222]

This morning, I ordered a new pellet-only firepot from AES. Since their delivery times are very slow (it's been 2 hrs since I ordered and it's not here yet... :ahhh: ), I decided to modify the existing firepot (why not? I'm not going to use it again.) I welded the top two rows of holes closed and it's burning now. I can already see the difference in performance.

Hmmm....might have to cancel that order.

Called and canceled my order. My modified pot works fine. Been running at level 5 for 10hrs now. Fire pot is at the same level when it was at 1 hr. No ash build up like before and my basement is now 78F. Sweet! Now let's see if it'll stay burning at level 1...

What level was it working on?

Please let me know if it stays lit on level 1. Thanks

Was running on level 2 for a few hours. No problem. Just turned it down to level 1 (no trim adjustment made) and will let it run thru the night and report back tomorrow.

I tried pressing the Auger Trim Button on this stove today. I saw nothing on the control panel to indicate any change?
Am I doing something wrong? Should the heat setting be on 1 when I do this?

 

[jrsdws]

Yes...manual mode with heat setting on 1. Press the auger trim button and adjust to your desired level: 5=high, 4=low, 1 (or no extra light)=normal.

When you adjust heat setting higher...or thermo calls for heat and stove ramps up this "extra light" will go out.

 

[DexterDay]

I bet its burning better than ever...... Good job Don. Your a good Man.

I helped a couple that asked for help about a month and a half ago. There Santa Fe insert was plugged completely. Just got a Christmas Card today in the mail. Had a $50 Gift card in it. Very nice people and didnt expect anything from them.

Feels good to help someone out. Good Deed done.

 

[ChandlerR]

Great news Don! Glad you guys got it working well. I had a high limit switch go on mine last year...Bought a new one from Graingers. I wish I had read your first post more carefully. I have the dummy ignitor....That also explains the red wires, right?

I taped the top holes on my burn pot but I've only been able to run it on low so far. It's 36 out but the stove on low keeps the house way above 70 and DW doesn't like to be too hot


Chan

Hi Chan

Did you do the dollar bill test on your ash pan gasket? The one on this stove was so bad it would fail the Buffalo Nickel test

The new gasket in the pic above works Fantastic!!

Don, I did and it's fine...however, I found that ash and debris tend to land at the hinge of the door and when you shut the door, the ash holds the door away from the stove, letting air in. Just a quick wipe of the gasket on the bottom of the door keeps things clean.. Thanks for the reminder!