Magnum countryside questions

[Rob78]

I just purchased a used magnum countryside. I made a mistake and took the control board out when plugged in, I hit the frame the board arched and blew the fuse. I could not find the exact 5a125v fuse. So I purchased a 5a250v. As soon as I put the fuse in and turn on it blows. Any ideas?

 

[Ssyko]

Fuses are designed to protect over-current, not over-voltage. Therefore as long as the fuse amperage is sized appropriately and as long as your fuse voltage meets or exceeds your application voltage the fuse will safely protect. Try pulling the molex connector for the stove components and see if it blows the fuse again, if so your probably looking at a new board

 

[Rob78]

Ok, I do not have any fuses left. I can tell you when I plug it in, it doesn' blow. However, once I switch on the heat setting thats what blows the fuse

 

[heat seeker]

What Ssyko said!

 

[Ssyko]

Is this like your board?

 

[Rob78]

No, this one

 

[Ssyko]

Ahhh ok yours is an older one, if you can pull your board out and take the pc board off the faceplate an look for burned traces. Let us know how it looks

 

[Rob78]

Well, yes. Top right

 

[Ssyko]

Sorry I didn’t get get back sooner, life cought up with me. It looks like the trace is severed, if your handy with a soldering iron you could jump the gap with some solder and see if that fixes the situation. But im suspecting a component was burned out to a short in the circuit and is popping the fuse.

 

[Rob78]

Sorry I didn’t get get back sooner, life cought up with me. It looks like the trace is severed, if your handy with a soldering iron you could jump the gap with some solder and see if that fixes the situation. But im suspecting a component was burned out to a short in the circuit and is popping the fuse.

Haha, no problem. So use a soldering iron and just solder on top of the board to connect it back together? The exhaust blower turned on fine until my dumb mistake when the board touched the door.

 

[Rob78]

I was not blowing any fuses until I hit the board

 

[Ssyko]

Yeah, clean each end of the trace down to the clean copper. Use rosin core solder and if its to big of a gap use a small piece of single strand wire.

 

[Ssyko]

I was not blowing any fuses until I hit the board

When that arc’d it shorted that circuit and it may have sent line voltage to 5v or 16v side of the circuit’s. Triacs and optoisolaters don’t line 120Vac on the gate pins

 

[Rob78]

When that arc’d it shorted that circuit and it may have sent line voltage to 5v or 16v side of the circuit’s. Triacs and optoisolaters don’t line 120Vac on the gate pins

So do you think I messed anything else up

 

[Ssyko]

Wont know till you solder the trace. It may go to working as its supposed to. Or may show more signs of a fault someplace else. Thats why we all preach unplug the stove anytime your back in the components or wiring.

 

[Rob78]

Wont know till you solder the trace. It may go to working as its supposed to. Or may show more signs of a fault someplace else. Thats why we all preach unplug the stove anytime your back in the components or wiring.

Well, yeah I know I'm kicking myself. Any good way to solder that. I usually don' do things that intricate. Where exactly would I place the iron

 

[Rob78]

I got it running but now to the 2nd problem. The fuel stirrer is not attached and I don't have the part which I'm assuming wasn't being used. When you turn the knob on it does not even turn but the manual states the fuel stirrer must be on or it goes into shutdown mode. Any ideas...stirrer motor bad?

 

[Watcher1]

I got it running but now to the 2nd problem. The fuel stirrer is not attached and I don't have the part which I'm assuming wasn't being used. When you turn the knob on it does not even turn but the manual states the fuel stirrer must be on or it goes into shutdown mode. Any ideas...stirrer motor bad?

I'm using the Cast Iron clinker pot my fuel stirrer is turned off has been a long time, never was an issue to start the unit even when I had the stirrer. 1 thing you could try, as you face the unit in front open the right side panel and make sure all the push on connectors are on tight.

 

[Rob78]

Ok, I got everything working....tightened and cleaned all connections. Good to go. I have to purchase the fuel stirrer. How does it stay on the shaft?

 

[Watcher1]

Ok, I got everything working....tightened and cleaned all connections. Good to go. I have to purchase the fuel stirrer. How does it stay on the shaft?

There is a slip on collar. I would buy the cast iron clinker pot instead of a stirrer. Main reason is the brass bushings where the shaft go thru wear out and are a pia to replace and pricie. and the stirrer wears out also and it is not quite.

 

[Rob78]

There is a slip on collar. I would buy the cast iron clinker pot instead of a stirrer. Main reason is the brass bushings where the shaft go thru wear out and are a pia to replace and pricie. and the stirrer wears out also and it is not quite.

Ok, I never used this stove. So what the difference between that firepot and the regular with the stirrer going?

 

[Watcher1]

Ok, I never used this stove. So what the difference between that firepot and the regular with the stirrer going?

Well the stirrer does just what it says/ if you are using pellets you would not have to clean out the pot except now and then. if you use even just the pot you have you will need to scrape out the ashes 1 to 2 times a day depending on how high you run the unit. So about a 1 and a 1/2 inch wide putty knife works pretty good. Open the fill door where you pour the pellets in, allow the fire to die down some, open the front door and just slide the putty knife down under the hot coals and lift out the hard mass of ash. try to leave some hot pellets in the pot throw in a few more pellets close it up! don't forget to close the pellet fill door. LOL this will restart your pellet flow. There are UTubes on doing this, search clinker removal. The cast pot is just better because of how hot it can get to burn pellets and corn better. Hope this all helps.

 

[Rob78]

Well the stirrer does just what it says/ if you are using pellets you would not have to clean out the pot except now and then. if you use even just the pot you have you will need to scrape out the ashes 1 to 2 times a day depending on how high you run the unit. So about a 1 and a 1/2 inch wide putty knife works pretty good. Open the fill door where you pour the pellets in, allow the fire to die down some, open the front door and just slide the putty knife down under the hot coals and lift out the hard mass of ash. try to leave some hot pellets in the pot throw in a few more pellets close it up! don't forget to close the pellet fill door. LOL this will restart your pellet flow. There are UTubes on doing this, search clinker removal. The cast pot is just better because of how hot it can get to burn pellets and corn better. Hope this all helps.

Yes it definitely helps! I am brand new to the pellets. I have been running a coal stove for quite awhile. I moved my coal stove to the basement. I'm excited to see how the pellet stove works. Thanks again

 

[Rob78]

Ok, I got it going. Seems fine. Fire may be sluggish. Not as high on the right side. Heat setting is one 2. Adjusted everything on the phone with tech support. Any ideas?

 

[Watcher1]

Ok, I got it going. Seems fine. Fire may be sluggish. Not as high on the right side. Heat setting is one 2. Adjusted everything on the phone with tech support. Any ideas?

LOL these have a big pot, all depends on where the pellets fall. Sometimes left sometimes right side flames are higher. Trick: I wrapped a piece of white tape around the damper rod and marked 1/4inch lines on it, helps to know how far in or out the damper works best.