SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
My cap is dark, but just on the lee side of the prevailing winds (north in my case). Non cat cookstove burning hot and fast, but I still get soot stains on the cap. Probably from frequent cold starts.
Melted BlazeKing 40
- Thread starter sacountry
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BKVP
Minister of Fire
Based on what you see so far @BKVP, what do you think? New one or is this worth saving?
I imagine a new one would be more efficient, but I ask because that’s some serious damage inside, yet if it’s worth saving it speaks volumes about the build quality of the stove. I’ve seen what I consider heavier built stoves, but why would it be necessary if this stoves main body is fine and parts can be obtained to fix it.
I imagine a new one would be more efficient, but I ask because that’s some serious damage inside, yet if it’s worth saving it speaks volumes about the build quality of the stove. I’ve seen what I consider heavier built stoves, but why would it be necessary if this stoves main body is fine and parts can be obtained to fix it.
BKVP
Minister of Fire
I've had a couple of professionals tell me that it's beyond saving. Hard to find welders wanting to take on stoves. Liability being the apparent reason.
I'm hopeful the 8" pipe doesn't need to be replaced, but if it does, I will likely go with 8" pipe again. The home is 3,000 sq ft which warrants a 4' fire box, or so I've been told. I would like to heat the home with the stove, using the cold air return near the stove along with the fan from the furnace to distribute heat into the rooms. That's my HVAC desire/theory anyway, leaving the propane fuel as back up. I've been building a wood crib just out the back door so I'm getting close to moving on to the next project. The stove will likely be the next on the list, especially since wood gathering is at a stand still with our current fire situation. I really need to figure out how to safely access that stove cap. I think I mentioned it before, it's a 12/12 roof and the pipe extends about 9'-10' up from the shingles. I truly wonder if the pitch of the roof has served as a deterrent for a thorough, top to bottom, cleaning.
I'll follow up as I progress.
I'm hopeful the 8" pipe doesn't need to be replaced, but if it does, I will likely go with 8" pipe again. The home is 3,000 sq ft which warrants a 4' fire box, or so I've been told. I would like to heat the home with the stove, using the cold air return near the stove along with the fan from the furnace to distribute heat into the rooms. That's my HVAC desire/theory anyway, leaving the propane fuel as back up. I've been building a wood crib just out the back door so I'm getting close to moving on to the next project. The stove will likely be the next on the list, especially since wood gathering is at a stand still with our current fire situation. I really need to figure out how to safely access that stove cap. I think I mentioned it before, it's a 12/12 roof and the pipe extends about 9'-10' up from the shingles. I truly wonder if the pitch of the roof has served as a deterrent for a thorough, top to bottom, cleaning.
I'll follow up as I progress.
aansorge
Minister of Fire
I have a 2001 Blaze King King that I bought used around 8 to 10 years ago. It still works great. The general consensus on this stove is that it is near impossible to beat in terms of producing a strong even heat for long periods of time. It has a giant belly that reduces ash cleanout episodes during the burning season, a huge fire box, and a great air control system. These stoves are also super easy to reload each day as there is always so much wood still in there. Reload times are super short. I highly recommend this stove.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
That explains why the cap was a mess. It’s really hard to access.
They sell a product called a sooteater that allows you to clean a BK, and many other stoves, from the bottom up through the loading door. It works great and you don’t need to go on the roof. Lots of forum posts about them. They work fine on 8” pipe and I have had great success cleaning the caps from below.
You can even sweep your chimney in the middle of winter.
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mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
What is the total height of your chimney? I thought I saw 14' at the beginning, BK recommends 15' minimum. I say add as much height as you can get away with for better low burning with these BK's. 24 hour reloads for that King is not unheard of.
Haven't taken a tape to it, but I probably have 7 - 8 feet of pipe in the living room. Another foot in the roof and then 9-10 feet on the exterior.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I can get 24 hours from a sub 3 CF princess with fir and alder. The king model is rated for up to 40 hours. Of course in a giant house in Montana you may not get to enjoy the low setting in January. That huge fuel tank will make life easier at any setting.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
BKVP
Minister of Fire
That "tilt" my result in a less that secure fit to a lower section or the ceiling support box.
It can and should have a level placed on it. The reposition the braces to support the pipe in the corrected position.
Others might know if the braces can be extended or made longer to account for the proper install.
Thanks. I do think I can loosen the nuts on the bracket as they mount to the roof which would allow me to lower the ring around the pipe, effectively pushing it further away from the roof
BKVP
Minister of Fire
Where the brace connects to the chimney, move it down. That'll push the chimney away from the roof slope.
There's no excuse for that. It speaks of poor workmanship and would drive me nuts.
The support legs can probably be extended. If not move the band down on the pipe. I wouldn't change where it's mounted on the roof. But as others said this shows poor workmanship I would check absolutely everything else
BKVP
Minister of Fire
Well, the dealer made some $$, the rep made some $$, you saved some $$ and your buddy saved $$ as well.
Thank you for trusting in the feedback members provided and you'll be toasty warm this winter.
Question. I've started in on the old stove. I didn't have high hopes for double walled pipe and the original owner did not disappoint. Given how little heat leaves up the pipe, how critical is double vs single wall stove pipe?
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
That (flue gas temp) is indeed the right train of thought. The point is that the gases are already rather cool, and it is important to not loose too much more heat to avoid condensation of creosote (see also your cap pic). I believe that you want to keep it above 250 F. SO if you have a double walled pipe, that'll help with that.
It'll also (as a consequence of the temp) help with draft, making your stove function better. Remind us what the total length is, stovetop to cap? And what of that is (now) single wall inside? Any elbows and horizontal sections?
It'll also (as a consequence of the temp) help with draft, making your stove function better. Remind us what the total length is, stovetop to cap? And what of that is (now) single wall inside? Any elbows and horizontal sections?
