Mid-Century Fireplace Conversion Questions

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mdmaiorano

New Member
Oct 20, 2015
2
Indianapolis
Hey all,

Sorry if this is a re-post, but I searched around and couldn't find answers to all my fireplace questions I have.

I have a house that was built in the late 50s / early 60s, and am looking to get the fireplace operational again. I recently had a chimney sweep inspect everything, and he pointed out that it would not be suitable for wood burning as the inside of the brick chimney had some wear and tear: small cracks on the inside, a gap where the flue lining wasn't tight against the brick where it ends at the bottom, and that the brick between the firebox and flue was exposed in "step" pattern as the diameter got smaller to the flue and not a smoothed out surface.

Anyway, the repair to correct all these issues is out of my budget, so he recommend that I look at ventless gas as an alternate. This raises some questions for me:

1: Is my chimney unfit for a vented gas fireplace option? I could modify the damper to vent continually easy enough since I believe this is code for safety against a possible gas leak. If I'm understanding the vented option correctly, they burn relatively cleanly, and my chimney should be able to vent any exhausts easily enough given it's still in ok condition. I have read about the possibility of condensation and acid buildup as a result of the flue being too wide a diameter and not heating up correctly, but for a fireplace that will get use relatively infrequently (20-30 times a winter), is this buildup a negligible concern?

2: As for a ventless option, I see the information about how it could pose a potential hazard within the home due to carbon monoxide and the like, but am wondering that since it would be placed into a full firebox / chimney, will that reduce or eliminate these concerns as the heat can vent those gasses out of the house? Are there any differences between a vented and ventless option based on looks or price?

3: Finally, should I get a second opinion? Are there other options I should be looking at? Again, my main concern is just having a house with a functioning fireplace that will be used primarily for looks and relatively infrequently. Does this need change anything in regards to my potential options? I wasn't sure if maybe there is another option since I won't be putting the chimney through a bunch of work by burning cord after cord of wood in it.

Sorry for the essay and the fact that's way more than just 3 questions. Thank you so much for any help/advice!

-Mike
 
Go to your local hearthshop & inquire about a direct vent (DV) gas Fireplace Insert. As long as your chimney is large enough to support the co-linear kit, which consists of (2) 3" diameter flexible aluminum tubes ( so, say 4" x 8" to allow for getting the liners down), you should be good to go. Measure the fireplace opening - width, depth & height. Take a picture of the fireplace from across the room so it shows from floor to ceiling. Take a picture of the damper area. Also, take a picture of the outside of your house, showing the ENTIRE chimney from the ground to the cap. I'd even take a picture of the nearest gas line - under or outside the fireplace. & measure the distance.
Armed with all this info, you will be able to get a really close estimate of the costs.
 
Go to your local hearthshop & inquire about a direct vent (DV) gas Fireplace Insert. As long as your chimney is large enough to support the co-linear kit, which consists of (2) 3" diameter flexible aluminum tubes ( so, say 4" x 8" to allow for getting the liners down), you should be good to go. Measure the fireplace opening - width, depth & height. Take a picture of the fireplace from across the room so it shows from floor to ceiling. Take a picture of the damper area. Also, take a picture of the outside of your house, showing the ENTIRE chimney from the ground to the cap. I'd even take a picture of the nearest gas line - under or outside the fireplace. & measure the distance.
Armed with all this info, you will be able to get a really close estimate of the costs.

Thanks for the reply! So it sounds like I absolutely need an insert to have any sort of vented fireplace. No way around it?

Also and if it matters, I am planning on becoming a general contractor in the next few months here and currently in the middle of a whole-house remodel (different house than this one). Basically just saying that even though I haven't dealt with this before, I'm very very handy and have installed complete house plumbing and electrical systems before. I always love to learn, and was hoping this was something that I could do mostly or completely myself to both learn and keep costs down.
 
Regarding the vent free options, there are log sets that are much less expensive and easier to install which would satisfy your needs. The box stores have these for $200-$300. Vent free technology has been around for decades and I am very comfortable with it. Just for peace of mind, put a carbon monoxide detector in the room, also available at the box store.
As daksy said, any vented insert needs a liner. This is for proper and safe operation of the insert. Gas appliances don't generate the flue temperatures needed for gravity vent in a large clay liner. The issue is not so much condensation as it is spillage of flue gases. A direct vent, coaxial system, as daksy mentioned, or, a b Brent, single 4" liner, where the appliance vents out the liner in the chimney and draws combustion air from the room.
Doing it yourself... In your own home, OK, but be sure to follow the manufacturer instructions, and, have it inspected and tested by a professional before introducing gas to the system. Line sizing is where most diy projects fail. Be sure to install the proper size gas line. Also, use coated copper tube. Uncoated copper tube can not be in contact with masonry.
As for contracting work, state laws will vary, but, most will require that you are licensed to install gas systems.
 
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