Modify Existing Thimble for OAK?

[jp57]

I am looking into adding an OAK to my 2003 25-PDVC. Previous home owner's had it installed without an OAK. The thimble only has the exhaust flue, no opening for adding the OAK. Is it possible to modify the existing thimble to allow for the OAK?

I really don't want to make another hole in the concrete wall and was hoping to use the existing thimble.

Or...is it just better in the long run to get a new thimble that already has everything I need?

 

[alternativeheat]

I'd modify it but I'm nuts anyway LOL. Just do it safely.

 

[FirepotPete]

I'd modify it but I'm nuts anyway LOL. Just do it safely.

Atta Boy

 

[Deezl Smoke]

I am looking into adding an OAK to my 2003 25-PDVC. Previous home owner's had it installed without an OAK. The thimble only has the exhaust flue, no opening for adding the OAK. Is it possible to modify the existing thimble to allow for the OAK?

I really don't want to make another hole in the concrete wall and was hoping to use the existing thimble.

Or...is it just better in the long run to get a new thimble that already has everything I need?

Have you removed half the current thimble to see what the hole in the wall looks like? Depending on the thimble design, if the hole is just big enough to push the thimble in, you may have to enlarge the current hole some to get the oak tube thru to the outside. ?

 

[bags]

Get a hole saw and just knock the project out. But as Deezl mentioned make sure you have room to squeak one thru your concrete wall. Is it a poured foundation wall or concrete block? Details?

 

[dozerdean]

I am looking into adding an OAK to my 2003 25-PDVC. Previous home owner's had it installed without an OAK. The thimble only has the exhaust flue, no opening for adding the OAK. Is it possible to modify the existing thimble to allow for the OAK?

I really don't want to make another hole in the concrete wall and was hoping to use the existing thimble.

Or...is it just better in the long run to get a new thimble that already has everything I need?

They make a exhaust & oak in one piece. It's a little bigger than regular exhaust plus your intake is preheated!

 

[Mt Bob]

The biggest thing is--if you have a fire,or smoke damage,or -- your insurance company can refuse all payment,as it is a non acceptable modified part.

 

[bags]

They make a exhaust & oak in one piece. It's a little bigger than regular exhaust plus your intake is preheated!

That's what I have on the 68 and it was the Harman setup but it cost a pretty penny at $250 bucks. I like it a lot and it really simplified my install but man it's a lot of cash for about what should be a $50 part.

The PC45 I modified and it is probably better construction wise and way cheaper. I have access to a buddies metal fab and welding shop. It is no rinky dink wall thimble with just a hose jammed thru for the OAK. It looks factory and there are similar ones but again they cost more. I got by way cheaper the second go round.

 

[alternativeheat]

The biggest thing is--if you have a fire,or smoke damage,or -- your insurance company can refuse all payment,as it is a non acceptable modified part.

That's possible but It's going through non flammable concrete and if the modification looks original,is designed like manufactured thimbles, I doubt an adjuster would even pick up on the modification unless the cause was located right there at the thimble, in which case they might want the part so they can investigate it for possible manufacture defect and chase the company for reimbursement ( I know this because we just recently had a flood from an overflowing toilet in our rental apartment, they already paid off $5700 in water damage and another check to come for lost rent while the tenants are out and they paid off the mop up company we called in. But they wanted the old toilet parts for the reason I mentioned above) ..

Incidentally, they don't pay off on "the cause", in our case the replacement toilet parts, or replacement toilet if need be, is on us. I rebuilt the toilet myself ( in fact we have done the sheet rock work as well because we can't wait for people to show up in their own due time). In flood damage the fear is mold, we called in people for mop up, who stripped out the basement insulation, cut up 1ft from the floor of sheet rock, pulled the carpets and pads and took out the baseboard mouldings, then put dryers in the rooms for 3 days. You wouldn't believe the havoc a stuck valve has caused ( tenant went out for the evening, last thing he did before leaving was flush the toilet, a word to the wise before you leave your house for an extended time, always make sure you hear no running water) !

 

[jp57]

Have you removed half the current thimble to see what the hole in the wall looks like? Depending on the thimble design, if the hole is just big enough to push the thimble in, you may have to enlarge the current hole some to get the oak tube thru to the outside. ?

That's a great question...I didn't think of that. It's entirely possible that they just drilled a big enough hole for the exhaust. Might need to open up another hold in the concrete for the intake anyway. It's a poured concrete foundation.

Probably the safest route to go would be to remove the existing thimble and see what the wall looks like and what size hole they drilled. Then make a decision from there. Since we're already into winter and it's cold around here, I just might wait until the Spring to work on this and keep running as is until then. I should have done this sooner...but as usual I procrastinated!

 

[alternativeheat]

Well hey, if it's running and not causing problems then no loss anyway, for the time being. i ran the first winter without OAK, had a few less drafts with OAK once installed but the stove heated the house either way.

 

[Deezl Smoke]

That's exactly how I would approach it. It's working now, and it's cold outside. The older I get, the more I like working on things in fair weather.

 

[jp57]

Well hey, if it's running and not causing problems then no loss anyway, for the time being. i ran the first winter without OAK, had a few less drafts with OAK once installed but the stove heated the house either way.

Exactly...the stove has been in the house since at least 2003 or 2004 so it's not imperative that I get this done right away. The house is pretty drafty to begin with, so I've got plenty of other stuff to keep me busy this winter.

 

[bags]

JP,
Your plan sounds reasonable and do investigate what you have to work with. It may be best to wait until spring but it could be done rather quickly without much heat loss.

If your foundation is core drilled it is likely only big enough for the exhaust. That said there are other options as well but this would not include using the same existing thimble (modded) and hole. At this point you may have to look for another route for the OAK say going up and out thru a wood band board etc; which would be easier than the concrete. It would require another OAK thimble and possibly a longer run on the OAK piping.

Check out and assess what you have to work with. You could also rent a concrete core drill and bit. Maybe get lucky and chisel out a bit more and squeak it thru the existing location.

 

[Pete Zahria]

look for another route for the OAK say going up and out thru a wood band board etc; which would be easier than the concrete.

That would be the best route..
Coring a 3" hole through a concrete wall isn't exactly a diy project for an unfamiliar user.......

Dan