Morso 1410 Squirrel

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Morso says in the manual:
To help gauge the correct running temperature of your stove, we recommend you use the Morsø
Flue Gas Thermometer (part # 62901200). The Flue Gas Thermometer magnetically attaches
onto the stove pipe approx 20 cm (8”) above the stove’s top plate and measures the surface
temperature of the stove pipe
.


This is a surface mount, magnetic thermometer for single-wall stove pipe. It does not pertain to double-wall stove pipe which needs a probe thermometer for an accurate reading of the flue gas temperature. Follow the instructions for the probe thermometer if installing it in double-wall stove pipe.

 
I guess I was lucky when the guy that installed the chimney and stove pipe for my 1410 installed a probe thermometer as "part of the job" . It is mounted 12" above the stove and reads exactly the same temp as my stove top thermometer once everything is warmed up and settled down to burn. Happy stove running temp is 550°f to 800°f depending on outside temp. I also have an ir thermometer which agrees with the stove top temp., but reads about 5% high compared to a lab certified thermometer.
I should add that I have a 4' straight up run of double wall pipe with 17' of class A passing through a ventilated chase through a bedroom upstairs.
 
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I really love the look of Morso stoves. My neighbor is having one installed and it's gorgeous.

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Morso says in the manual:
To help gauge the correct running temperature of your stove, we recommend you use the Morsø
Flue Gas Thermometer (part # 62901200). The Flue Gas Thermometer magnetically attaches
onto the stove pipe approx 20 cm (8”) above the stove’s top plate and measures the surface
temperature of the stove pipe
.


This is a surface mount, magnetic thermometer for single-wall stove pipe. It does not pertain to double-wall stove pipe which needs a probe thermometer for an accurate reading of the flue gas temperature. Follow the instructions for the probe thermometer if installing it in double-wall stove pipe.



I think it is just a translation issue. The manual clearly states the nominal internal flue temperature measured at 8". If we ever go to double wall connector pipe I will put the probe thermometer at the same 8" mark.
 
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I guess I was lucky when the guy that installed the chimney and stove pipe for my 1410 installed a probe thermometer as "part of the job" . It is mounted 12" above the stove and reads exactly the same temp as my stove top thermometer once everything is warmed up and settled down to burn. Happy stove running temp is 550°f to 800°f depending on outside temp. I also have an ir thermometer which agrees with the stove top temp., but reads about 5% high compared to a lab certified thermometer.
I should add that I have a 4' straight up run of double wall pipe with 17' of class A passing through a ventilated chase through a bedroom upstairs.
Your right Squirrel, I found that probe thermometers cost much more than magnetic ones.
 
Does someone know the reason for the 2 holes in the upper of the front support?
 

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Does someone know the reason for the 2 holes in the upper of the front support?
Those two holes are in the airwash, I suspect they're there to provide some air to the upper front of the firebox. Almost like a supplement to the secondary burn air, just a hunch
 
Those two holes are in the airwash, I suspect they're there to provide some air to the upper front of the firebox. Almost like a supplement to the secondary burn air, just a hunch
That is what I was thinking but most stoves pre heat the primary air before sending it inside of the stove. These 2 holes send cold air coming from the upper air control knok just in front of the secondary burn. And they also rob air for the airwash of the glass. I don't say it cause problem but I try to know if it's better with or without them, very easy to drop bolts in them...
 
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I'm not positive but pretty sure from the marks on my stove that those holes let gases from the firebox into the primary airflow and down the airwash. I sent an email to Morso in Denmark asking the question and giving a link to this thread.
 
OK now the Squirrel is in function. I tried the top/down method cause I love that and have never fume when liting the stoves. Shure the small fire box needs small *logs* but was a pleasure to make the first fire. The spinning air control knob is very easy to place on the good spot to control the fire and reacts very well. In fact I'm impressed from that first experience having a squirrel inside the house. Plus my wife loves that new baby.
Neat! That stove pipe looks HUGE on it though! :)
 
Answer from Morso.
"The 2 holes are air holes for the primary ignition, to let more air down to the fire"
AH-AH, Squirrel, I also sent the same question to Morso and got the same answer as you did, but I still wonder why they send not pre-heated air to the top fire box just in front of the secondary burn , secondary burn needs as much hot air as possible not cold air from the 2 holes, plus it deviates the air needed for the air wash, got Morso answer but I sent a second email for my doubts about that very different method. I also wonder if the 2010 EPA stove still have these 2 holes. Thanks Squirrel
 
An other report on the Squirrel.
Yesterday 9 PM, I loaded the Squirrel *full*, easy to do with the new short **logs**. But what surprised me is the stove was still hot at 4.30 AM this morning,. I didn't turn the light on but it was impossibe to put my hand on the top of the stove and the house was warm, not hot but confortable. The glas was clean, just a thin whit film not a heavy black/ brown one. I just put some small kiddlings and the fire went on. I must say that I did plugged the 2 holes we talked about .
 
I must say that I did plugged the 2 holes we talked about .
Why tinker with the design of a new stove that is performing well?
 
Why tinker with the design of a new stove that is performing well?
If the new things were perfect, why compagnys would then spend so much money to improve their ** supposed to be perfect products**.
Nothing is perfect in this world means (to me) that all can be improved.
What does it change to your life if I make some experiences on *MY* stove ?
 
If the new things were perfect, why compagnys would then spend so much money to improve their ** supposed to be perfect products**.
Nothing is perfect in this world means (to me) that all can be improved.
What does it change to your life if I make some experiences on *MY* stove ?
No problem if the changes are reversible. The stove burning characteristics will vary as the weather , fuel and operation change. Morso has had the advantage of testing this over many years. The design for this stove has not changed much. Personally I would wait a season before doing any changes and let the stove teach me first. The assumption that the changes will make it better may be in error, but only testable with equipment not normally available to the homeowner.
 
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No problem if the changes are reversible. The stove burning characteristics will vary as the weather , fuel and operation change. Morso has had the advantage of testing this over many years. The design for this stove has not changed much. Personally I would wait a season before doing any changes and let the stove teach me first.
Your right, you can do all you want on your stove, Me I don't wait to improve all I can , all companys claim their new products are better than the previous one, so try to get the conclusion by yourself.
 
Hmmm, actually no. Modifying an EPA stove in this country is against the law. I'm not saying it is not necessary at times, but often user modifications actually degrade the efficiency and can increase emissions.

Not saying what you are doing is a bad thing. The change is minor and may only have a slight effect that may not be user notable or may only affect the fire at a certain stage of the burn. Without instrumentation, this would be hard to detect.
 
I thought I had to modify my stove as well. Turns out I just had to become more aware of my stove adjustments.
 
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Now, I'm just testing the stove's reactions from placing bolts in the 2 holes, hard to understand begreen's reactions . On 13 stoves I got since I built the house 38 Yrs ago, I made modif on most of them, plus I sent some improvements I made to stove manufacturers . I restored many antique stoves....So placing 2 bolts doesn't scare me. According to the last fire : 9 Pm to 5.30 Am ( I made a mistake on the previous post about time ), it made 8.30 Hrs on a full load and the glass was not brown/black, just a very thin white hue. Restart with just a few kiddlings...Not that bad for a poor French Canadian !
So I will continue the *holes* testings !
 
No scare mentioned or intended. It's just good to live with the stove for a while so that one learns how it performs under the multitude of conditions that can occur during the heating season. That provides a baseline and an education. Making changes too early may lead to chasing self-created issues.
 
beegreen, if you read slowly my last posts describing a 8.30 hours burn time with the small Squirrel, no dirty glass, re-start the fire with kiddling only, can you tell me what I did wrong and why I shouls have waited one year before trying to put bolts in the 2 holes and compare the results with and without the bolts?
In all the post I send on the forum, my sole intention is to show what I did, I don't tell : do the same as I did, if someone find something that can help, fine .
 
One sample evening doesn't make a correlation. There are a number of variables at play. It's far too early to imply that this change had a relationship.
 
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One sample evening doesn't make a correlation. There are a number of variables at play. It's far too early to imply that this change had a relationship.
Anyways, you will always find something to critic on the way I run my stove experiences and I don't care about all your stubborn comments. You can certainly find an other member to do the lessons.
Thank you