As the title states, what brand/model of non-gasification wood boilers is known for being the most efficent? As in least emissions, least creosote, and most heat output?
Most effiecient non-gasification boiler
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I'd say Tarm offhand, though if your goal of avoiding gasifiers is to save money, then that's probably no help. There are several European boiler designs that are technically not gasifiers, but they offer similar benefits.
As far as conventional, domestically-produced wood-fired boilers, the designs are pretty much all the same, and despite all the hype, I think they all perform in a similar fashion. Under ideal conditions, you can get pretty decent performance from a firebox-and-water jacket boiler.
As far as conventional, domestically-produced wood-fired boilers, the designs are pretty much all the same, and despite all the hype, I think they all perform in a similar fashion. Under ideal conditions, you can get pretty decent performance from a firebox-and-water jacket boiler.
I know gasifier's are the best, and I'd love to have one but they cost so much. So I was leaning towards a conventional wood boiler and was wanting to get the best of those.
That's what I thought. I've owned both a Marathon Logwood and a Royall 6150. I liked them both. The Logwood generated a lot of creosote and used a moderate amount of wood. The Royall ate an outrageous amount of wood but produced no creosote. Both kept us nice and warm. I'd recommend either one under the right circumstances. I'm sure there are plenty of others that are just as good or better.
It's all a compromise. The nice thing about gasifiers is that they start paying you back right away with greater efficiency, much less pollution and lower wood consumption.
It's all a compromise. The nice thing about gasifiers is that they start paying you back right away with greater efficiency, much less pollution and lower wood consumption.
with the green wood not having any blowers fans and air adjustments, just fill and burn , it is hard to call it a trus gasifier. it burns hot.give good heat .not sure about wood comsumption yet but so far so good.
I saw a Biasi recently. I guess it's technically not a gasser, but it's simple and you can burn coal in it too. The owner tells me it likes small splits, not chunks.
Don't trust anyones claim on efficiency. Its all relative. I have no idea how much they cost, but I bet way less than what those of us that put in gassers have paid.
Plus, it's Italian. So you know it's Sexy ;-)
Don't trust anyones claim on efficiency. Its all relative. I have no idea how much they cost, but I bet way less than what those of us that put in gassers have paid.
Plus, it's Italian. So you know it's Sexy ;-)
If you decide to go non-gasifier, I would suggest a cast iron unit from a durability & efficiency standpoint. These units can also burn coal, examples: Attack, Dakon & Buderus. One advantage of these is simplicity. Check around for a used one, personally I'd stay away from a 10 plus year old used Tarm because they're carbon steel not iron.
The Attack from Cozy Heat is $4700 though, for another $2000 you could get an eko. I'd recommend a gasifier if you are serious about burning wood for many years.
The Attack from Cozy Heat is $4700 though, for another $2000 you could get an eko. I'd recommend a gasifier if you are serious about burning wood for many years.
National Stoveworks' (New York state) Thermo Control is another name to throw out there. Mine has a 135 gallon water jacket, and is fabricated with 1/4" steel throughout. It's a simple and durable thing. But gasification is the way to go if you can.
I have a biasi and Ive also burned a New yorker and a logwood. the Biasi eats the least wood but makes the most creosote. It makes more creosote than any other boiler Ive used by a lot. It also puts out more heat per piece of wood than any other non-gasser boiler Ive used.
Central is a good choice for an OWB (as is Heatmor and few others I can think of), but I'd wager that any indoor boiler beats any OWB hands down when it comes to efficiency. Even a poorly-designed conventional indoor boiler gives you a tremendous efficiency gain through the heat recovered from the chimney, stove pipe and the stove itself, not to mention that it's using warmer combustion air and lives in a much warmer ambient environment.
There are plenty of good reasons to go with an OWB over an indoor installation, but efficiency isn't one of them, IMO.
BTW, I'd second the cast iron boiler suggestion. Solid, proven technology that should last a lifetime with minimal care and maintenance. Probably about as efficient as a any conventional boiler plate rig.
There are plenty of good reasons to go with an OWB over an indoor installation, but efficiency isn't one of them, IMO.
BTW, I'd second the cast iron boiler suggestion. Solid, proven technology that should last a lifetime with minimal care and maintenance. Probably about as efficient as a any conventional boiler plate rig.
shawnmd said:
Shawn - are you talking about a traditional OWB? Like a Central Boiler 6048 or similar? Make sure your local zoning regs still allow them. They are being restricted in more and more small, rural communities here in the states.
As far as efficiency comparisons, it is hard to get excited about a difference of 5 or even 10% between units that only have a total efficiency of 40-45%. Look at the E-classic if you are thinking about CB.
Just my .02 USD having gone through this exercise in the last 8 months. I took out a loan.
I put mine on a credit card, but paid it off pretty quick as soon as the heating season started and I began to get $150 utility bills instead of $800. That, and my wife called me a genius, which is the first and probably the last time that ever happens. She likes a warm house and hates utility bills. Bingo!
I can vouch for the CB e-classic. I debated about the 6048 but with state regulations changing and efficiencies I decided to go with the e-classic. So far I am very happy with it. I know a few people locally with indoor gassifier and reading what others on here are doing and I am not burning any more than they are with mine. The e-classic is a gassifier and seems to be working extremely well compared to the claims made by the company. It is costly but looking long term I will recoup the cost very quickly and it is easy to set up and install. As Eric said, you will save on your heating bills and put the money toward a loan, credit card, whatever. Do your research and talk with lots of folks before deciding. Just keep in mind that everyone has an opinion, and all will believe they have the best system.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Jim K in PA said:
I took out a loan as well. With a 5 year loan my payment is less than if I had budgeted my natural gas with the "even monthly payments" method they offer. Of course, I had a fair amount of cash saved up too...
My $.02 .If I was going to buy 20 year old technology I would buy a 20 year old boiler . Needing an economical heat source for my 3/4 finished house that is what I did. I think an older tarm or similar high quality boiler would be as efficient or more so than any of the new conventional boilers . I figure I will use my $500 tarm for a couple of years until I can afford a gasification boiler. In my search for a used boiler I found a number of older tarms in good shape for $500-$2000.
Eric Johnson said:
HA! if the "BOSS" AKA, wife, calls me a genius when my setup is online and saving money....
lets just say she's skeptical right now...
Before I give my 5 cents worth, a couple of questions.
How many BTU do you need.
Do you want a boiler in you house or where you build a shed etc. or self contained outdoor boiler.
Robby
How many BTU do you need.
Do you want a boiler in you house or where you build a shed etc. or self contained outdoor boiler.
Robby
The Attack from cozy heat is $4695, the eko 40 from cozy heat is $6550, I quoted the eko 40 from a comparison standpoint because it's also 140 k btu. You may find a better price elsewhere. Again, I'd recommend a gasifier after all things are considered.
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