my Jotul f 602 is overfiring - does not damp down with front air flow

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jblivesmall

New Member
Oct 6, 2017
57
revelstoke bc
I just installed my stove 5 days ago. I find it tends to overfire. Even when I shut the front door airflow, it still burns intenselly. Is there something I can do. I basically cant' put more than 2-3 pices at 2" thick, otherwise it burns way too hot according to ideal burning temperature. Also, it burn super fast. Any advice about this? thank you
 
2-3 2" pieces of wood are going to burn up quickly. That is 1-2" is kindling size. Try putting in thicker splits to slow the fire down.

What temperature are you reading on the stove? How tall is the chimney?
 
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it got up to 525 F. my chimney is 66" + 66" of double wall pipe.
 
525F stove top is pretty normal. 650F stovetop is a regular winter cruising temp for this stove. As long as it stays below 750F on the griddle plate you are ok. The flue system height is a little short, so too strong draft is not the issue. Try 3-4" splits to slow things down.

What species wood are you burning? In general, most softwood will burn hotter and faster than hardwood.
 
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ok. Yes, maybe the thermometer i have is not really designed for this stove. It's an Imperial Burn Indicator, and it has color rated sections in which the red section title Overfirring goes from 500 to 800. I went by that. I was getting really worried when it reached into the red section. Are you getting the temperature facts from Jotul?
The chimney is shorter than recommended, but the draw is still really great!
I am currently burning Fur.
ya, the griddle plate: there is absolutely no mention of it in the stove manual. nothing at all. Is there a Jotul site I am not aware of?
I will throw a bigger piece in and monitor.
thanks a lot begreen!
 
Sounds like you are using a flue thermo on your stove top.
 
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I am yes,

actually I just bought an Infrared Thermoter to monitor the temperature. It's probably more accurate. I will use that too from now on.
525F stove top is pretty normal. 650F stovetop is a regular winter cruising temp for this stove. As long as it stays below 750F on the griddle plate you are ok. The flue system height is a little short, so too strong draft is not the issue. Try 3-4" splits to slow things down.

What species wood are you burning? In general, most softwood will burn hotter and faster than hardwood.

ok. Yes, maybe the thermometer i have is not really designed for this stove. It's an Imperial Burn Indicator, and it has color rated sections in which the red section title Overfirring goes from 500 to 800. I went by that. I was getting really worried when it reached into the red section. Are you getting the temperature facts from Jotul?
The chimney is shorter than recommended, but the draw is still really great!
I am currently burning Fur.
ya, the griddle plate: there is absolutely no mention of it in the stove manual. nothing at all. Is there a Jotul site I am not aware of?
I will throw a bigger piece in and monitor.
thanks a lot begreen!
 
And by forefather he means expert. Begreen is giving you good advice.
 
fyi BG is a forefather of the modern epa certified wood burning stoves.
I have by no means doubted the knowledge of BG here, and thanks very much, but if I didn’t think I was getting good advice I wouldn’t post on this forum. Good for you for looking out for your buddy, although it was not nescessary.
I could have articulated myself more clearly I suppose by basically asking where I could get more info about my stove beside the manual which does not mention about ideal burning temperature and any mention of the “cook ring” and it’s specs.
 
And by forefather he means expert. Begreen is giving you good advice.
I have by no means doubted the knowledge of BG here, and thanks very much, but if I didn’t think I was getting good advice I wouldn’t post on this forum. Good for you for looking out for your buddy, although it was not nescessary.
I could have articulated myself more clearly I suppose by basically asking where I could get more info about my stove beside the manual which does not mention about ideal burning temperature and any mention of the “cook ring” and it’s specs.
 
525F stove top is pretty normal. 650F stovetop is a regular winter cruising temp for this stove. As long as it stays below 750F on the griddle plate you are ok. The flue system height is a little short, so too strong draft is not the issue. Try 3-4" splits to slow things down.

What species wood are you burning? In general, most softwood will burn hotter and faster than hardwood.

I actually put a big 4-5” piece in there and it calmed right down. I was burning my pieces too small.
 
No worries. I wasn't really jumping to anyone's defence. Just trying to clarify for you was all. With any luck someone will chime in with some more info or reference material for you.

Good to hear you're having better luck with some bigger splits.
 
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I actually put a big 4-5” piece in there and it calmed right down. I was burning my pieces too small.
Good deal. You can use the stove pipe thermometer, just ignore the ranges indicated and just go by the temperature. Stove pipe thermometer ranges are more conservative because the interior temp of the stove pipe is about 1.5x to 2x higher than the surface temp. Use your IR thermometer to verify that the actual temperature reading of the Imperial thermometer is roughly accurate.

PS: I may be old as the hills, but I'm not the forefather of stoves. Craig Issod, who founded this website has more knowledge than I will ever have. He even owned Upland stoves.
 
Following this thread. Curious to see how yours burns with dry wood. 15% seems to make it impossible to keep the cook top <900's for me, with 1000 not being uncommon.
 
Sounds like an air leak. At 1000F the stove will be glowing. I've burned a few hundred fires in the F602. It's never gotten over 750F unless the air was left open. Had a house sitter do that and it cracked the back. Normally I run it no higher than 700F. One of our neighbors has the F602CB in a small house. They tell me that it cruises (albeit briefly) around 650F burning maple and alder.
 
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Sounds like an air leak. At 1000F the stove will be glowing. I've burned a few hundred fires in the F602. It's never gotten over 750F unless the air was left open. Had a house sitter do that and it cracked the back. Normally I run it no higher than 700F. One of our neighbors has the F602CB in a small house. They tell me that it cruises (albeit briefly) around 650F burning maple and alder.

I can't find a leak. Disassembled the stove, replaced gaskets, etc. Don't want to hijack the thread, but would appreciate your input on this thread bg:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/holy-crap-hot-f602.158720/
 
Following this thread. Curious to see how yours burns with dry wood. 15% seems to make it impossible to keep the cook top <900's for me, with 1000 not being uncommon.

yikes! 1000 seems scary hot!
my wood is not as dry as it should be, and it’s not hardwood. I get concerned when it goes over 500. I think I’ll be happy to run it between 500-600 when I need that kind of heat. My place is very very small, but the winter is not cold yet either.
 
Sounds like an air leak. At 1000F the stove will be glowing. I've burned a few hundred fires in the F602. It's never gotten over 750F unless the air was left open. Had a house sitter do that and it cracked the back. Normally I run it no higher than 700F. One of our neighbors has the F602CB in a small house. They tell me that it cruises (albeit briefly) around 650F burning maple and alder.

mine is the CB as well
 
jblivesmall you don,t say what kind and condition of wood your using. I also am a 602cb burner here . I have found that when the stove starts to runaway on a regular bases it is time to tear it down and reseal it all .Not to bad of a job after you clean it up good . I recommend lightly spraying the bolts with penetrate oil and let be for a day ,Upon reassembling it use neversieze on the bolt threads and the next time it will come right apart. the only real tools you need is a 10mm wrench and a 10mm socket , flat head and philips . I do occasionally get a high intensity burn when we have sustained winds or very strong gusts, to stop that I put a damper on the stove top. I only use it during these high wind times to throttle back the draft . If not that lil guy sounds like a jet engine .

I am trying to find the air baffle for mine due to a crack from last fall as a result of an over burn .
 
jblivesmall you don,t say what kind and condition of wood your using. I also am a 602cb burner here . I have found that when the stove starts to runaway on a regular bases it is time to tear it down and reseal it all .Not to bad of a job after you clean it up good . I recommend lightly spraying the bolts with penetrate oil and let be for a day ,Upon reassembling it use neversieze on the bolt threads and the next time it will come right apart. the only real tools you need is a 10mm wrench and a 10mm socket , flat head and philips . I do occasionally get a high intensity burn when we have sustained winds or very strong gusts, to stop that I put a damper on the stove top. I only use it during these high wind times to throttle back the draft . If not that lil guy sounds like a jet engine .

I am trying to find the air baffle for mine due to a crack from last fall as a result of an over burn .

actually, if you are reffering to the 1000 f burning temp, that is not me. someone jumped on my thread and talk about his/her stove problem.
My stove is bran spankin new, 6 days since install. was burning too small of pieces, but with bigger pieces way calmer. It behaves quite normal as a matter of fact. I keep the temp on mine in average between 300- 600.
 
I removed the door and as look at it on the right side you may see some castings that effect how much you can close the damper , I ground mine down about 1/4 to 1/3rd of an inch it made a big difference. You can shut it down if it starts to run away for you. Just be careful to keep an eye on how you put it back together, in particular the gasket.