I just bought a 2009 Huskee 22 ton splitter. Looked super clean, like new, seemed to run fine. However, when splitting larger rounds, nothing enormous, but anything in the 14" and over range, the splitter pauses upon contact, then after 2-3 seconds, powers through. Is this normal? I've read everything from normal, to valve issue, to pump, to low oil to clogged hydraulic fluid filter. Can anyone assist, I'm getting started late on my splitting and I'm NOT calling the oil man$ Thanks!
My splitter pauses, then splits, is this normal?
- Thread starter Johnny Cashonly
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It is not unusual for the splitter to take 1 or 2 seconds for the pump
to ramp up to the high-pressure side and get the ram moving
to ramp up to the high-pressure side and get the ram moving
Thank you Sir Johneh!! Is it even worth changing the hydraulic fluid filter...it’s older, looks original filter, I doubt the machine has done more than a 3-4 cord prior to my use? Thank you!
Change the filter it won't hurt
Is it necessary probably not
My splitter is 7 years old splits on an average
10 cord a year. The hydro oil is as clean as it was new (closed system )
The filter is original. Changing the filter is up to you
but like I said it wouldn't hurt
Is it necessary probably not
My splitter is 7 years old splits on an average
10 cord a year. The hydro oil is as clean as it was new (closed system )
The filter is original. Changing the filter is up to you
but like I said it wouldn't hurt
Check the (big) line from the tank to the pump. This is a suction line and if there are hose clamps or something other than a threaded connection at either end, you could be pulling in some air. This will cause your hesitation also. Not a big concern as the air will work it's way out when it gets back to the tank.
When I hit something real hard the ram stalls as it switches to the second stage. But you defiantly know it heal hard, Every thing is moaning. The wood creaks as it moves a fraction of an inch at a time. then the round explodes, and the machine and I are happy about that.
I have to say that the oil might look clean but it looses it's ability to retard shear as it ages and shear is what you don't want in a hydraulic pump. Fluid is cheap anyway but use a good quality synthetic fluid like Shell Rotella hydraulic fluid or Mystic JT6. Filters are cheap too. You ought to see my oil bill when I change both my farm tractors, each take 15 gallons of fluid and 4 filters, 2 each and I use a synthetic (Rotella or Chevron_. Rotella is 50 bucks a 5 gallon pail, Chevton is 100 bucks a pail.
Woodsplitter67
Minister of Fire
if your splitter is 11 years old, just do a fill service. its not expensive and well maintained equipment runs better and has a tendency to last longer...
That's the short line, from the lower end/opening, non filter side of the tank to the pump? If it is yes, on mine is a clear plastic looking flex line that has the radiator style screw tightening hose clamps. From my research, I'm pretty sure that's the factory set up. There are no external leaks, but i'll check the clamps and make sure they are tight. Thanks for the input!
Fluid changes are really based on hours and time. Old fluid absorbs moisture and that moisture causes corrosion inside the system.
Old oil doesn't absorb water. Oil and water don't mix they will always separate.Let it sit and any water will end up at the bottom.
Been dealing with old oil for 25 years for heat.
Not correct. Motor oil will nor absorb water but hydraulic fluid will. When it has water in it, it turns milky. In fact, if you want to remove any spillage, you hose it off. I deal with condensation in hydraulic fluid all the time in farm tractors. Only way to liberate condensation is to get the fluid up to operating temp so the entrained water boils off. Motor oil and hydraulic fluid are 2 different animals entirely.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Agine a blanket statement that isn't true.
New John Deere equipment uses 10w30 in everything.
My old Cat equipment uses 10w motor oil in it's hydraulics,every once in a while i use ATF to give the oil color to be seen through 40 year old site glass.
There may be some hydrolic fluid that water will get absorbed in but it isn't oil.
Oil and water don't mix.they will always separate.Unlike your coffee where you mix milk into it can sit forever and will not separate.
Sawset
Minister of Fire
Oil emulsion.
Is it temporary in our equipment?
If so, then maybe you're all right to some extent. I've seen plenty of cloudy transmission oil, and engine oil, but I've never waited around long enough to get the connection between that and it settling out, or boiling off, or whatever it does. Usually the oil gets drained, and the cause fixed before I get a chance to see.
Is it temporary in our equipment?
If so, then maybe you're all right to some extent. I've seen plenty of cloudy transmission oil, and engine oil, but I've never waited around long enough to get the connection between that and it settling out, or boiling off, or whatever it does. Usually the oil gets drained, and the cause fixed before I get a chance to see.
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Whatever. It's 'Hydraulic' btw, not hydrolic. Not gonna joust with you. Don't really care.
even less than the spelling correction
