My splitter pauses, then splits, is this normal?

Johnny Cashonly

New Member
Sep 4, 2020
9
Connecticut
I just bought a 2009 Huskee 22 ton splitter. Looked super clean, like new, seemed to run fine. However, when splitting larger rounds, nothing enormous, but anything in the 14" and over range, the splitter pauses upon contact, then after 2-3 seconds, powers through. Is this normal? I've read everything from normal, to valve issue, to pump, to low oil to clogged hydraulic fluid filter. Can anyone assist, I'm getting started late on my splitting and I'm NOT calling the oil man$ Thanks!
 

johneh

Minister of Fire
Dec 19, 2009
3,013
Eastern Ontario
It is not unusual for the splitter to take 1 or 2 seconds for the pump
to ramp up to the high-pressure side and get the ram moving
 
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Johnny Cashonly

New Member
Sep 4, 2020
9
Connecticut
It is not unusual for the splitter to take 1 or 2 seconds for the pump
to ramp up to the high-pressure side and get the ram moving
Thank you Sir Johneh!! Is it even worth changing the hydraulic fluid filter...it’s older, looks original filter, I doubt the machine has done more than a 3-4 cord prior to my use? Thank you!
 

johneh

Minister of Fire
Dec 19, 2009
3,013
Eastern Ontario
Change the filter it won't hurt
Is it necessary probably not
My splitter is 7 years old splits on an average
10 cord a year. The hydro oil is as clean as it was new (closed system )
The filter is original. Changing the filter is up to you
but like I said it wouldn't hurt
 
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711mhw

Feeling the Heat
Dec 7, 2010
479
Western ME
Check the (big) line from the tank to the pump. This is a suction line and if there are hose clamps or something other than a threaded connection at either end, you could be pulling in some air. This will cause your hesitation also. Not a big concern as the air will work it's way out when it gets back to the tank.
 
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xman23

Minister of Fire
Oct 7, 2008
2,135
Lackawaxen PA
When I hit something real hard the ram stalls as it switches to the second stage. But you defiantly know it heal hard, Every thing is moaning. The wood creaks as it moves a fraction of an inch at a time. then the round explodes, and the machine and I are happy about that.
 
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SidecarFlip

Minister of Fire
Change the filter it won't hurt
Is it necessary probably not
My splitter is 7 years old splits on an average
10 cord a year. The hydro oil is as clean as it was new (closed system )
The filter is original. Changing the filter is up to you
but like I said it wouldn't hurt
I have to say that the oil might look clean but it looses it's ability to retard shear as it ages and shear is what you don't want in a hydraulic pump. Fluid is cheap anyway but use a good quality synthetic fluid like Shell Rotella hydraulic fluid or Mystic JT6. Filters are cheap too. You ought to see my oil bill when I change both my farm tractors, each take 15 gallons of fluid and 4 filters, 2 each and I use a synthetic (Rotella or Chevron_. Rotella is 50 bucks a 5 gallon pail, Chevton is 100 bucks a pail.
 
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Johnny Cashonly

New Member
Sep 4, 2020
9
Connecticut
Change the filter it won't hurt
Is it necessary probably not
My splitter is 7 years old splits on an average
10 cord a year. The hydro oil is as clean as it was new (closed system )
The filter is original. Changing the filter is up to you
but like I said it wouldn't hurt
Thank you sir!
 

Johnny Cashonly

New Member
Sep 4, 2020
9
Connecticut
Check the (big) line from the tank to the pump. This is a suction line and if there are hose clamps or something other than a threaded connection at either end, you could be pulling in some air. This will cause your hesitation also. Not a big concern as the air will work it's way out when it gets back to the tank.
That's the short line, from the lower end/opening, non filter side of the tank to the pump? If it is yes, on mine is a clear plastic looking flex line that has the radiator style screw tightening hose clamps. From my research, I'm pretty sure that's the factory set up. There are no external leaks, but i'll check the clamps and make sure they are tight. Thanks for the input!
 

SidecarFlip

Minister of Fire
Fluid changes are really based on hours and time. Old fluid absorbs moisture and that moisture causes corrosion inside the system.
 

salecker

Minister of Fire
Aug 22, 2010
1,140
Northern Canada
Fluid changes are really based on hours and time. Old fluid absorbs moisture and that moisture causes corrosion inside the system.
Old oil doesn't absorb water. Oil and water don't mix they will always separate.Let it sit and any water will end up at the bottom.
Been dealing with old oil for 25 years for heat.
 

SidecarFlip

Minister of Fire
Old oil doesn't absorb water. Oil and water don't mix they will always separate.Let it sit and any water will end up at the bottom.
Been dealing with old oil for 25 years for heat.

Not correct. Motor oil will nor absorb water but hydraulic fluid will. When it has water in it, it turns milky. In fact, if you want to remove any spillage, you hose it off. I deal with condensation in hydraulic fluid all the time in farm tractors. Only way to liberate condensation is to get the fluid up to operating temp so the entrained water boils off. Motor oil and hydraulic fluid are 2 different animals entirely.
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
5,351
NE Ohio
Motor oil will "absorb" water too...I have personally drained plenty of white milky oil out of engines that were ran with water in the oil (both coolant, and pond/creek water)
 
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salecker

Minister of Fire
Aug 22, 2010
1,140
Northern Canada
Not correct. Motor oil will nor absorb water but hydraulic fluid will. When it has water in it, it turns milky. In fact, if you want to remove any spillage, you hose it off. I deal with condensation in hydraulic fluid all the time in farm tractors. Only way to liberate condensation is to get the fluid up to operating temp so the entrained water boils off. Motor oil and hydraulic fluid are 2 different animals entirely.
Agine a blanket statement that isn't true.
New John Deere equipment uses 10w30 in everything.
My old Cat equipment uses 10w motor oil in it's hydraulics,every once in a while i use ATF to give the oil color to be seen through 40 year old site glass.
There may be some hydrolic fluid that water will get absorbed in but it isn't oil.
Oil and water don't mix.they will always separate.Unlike your coffee where you mix milk into it can sit forever and will not separate.
 

Sawset

Minister of Fire
Feb 14, 2015
1,000
Palmyra, WI
Oil emulsion.
Is it temporary in our equipment?
If so, then maybe you're all right to some extent. I've seen plenty of cloudy transmission oil, and engine oil, but I've never waited around long enough to get the connection between that and it settling out, or boiling off, or whatever it does. Usually the oil gets drained, and the cause fixed before I get a chance to see.
 
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SidecarFlip

Minister of Fire
Agine a blanket statement that isn't true.
New John Deere equipment uses 10w30 in everything.
My old Cat equipment uses 10w motor oil in it's hydraulics,every once in a while i use ATF to give the oil color to be seen through 40 year old site glass.
There may be some hydrolic fluid that water will get absorbed in but it isn't oil.
Oil and water don't mix.they will always separate.Unlike your coffee where you mix milk into it can sit forever and will not separate.
Whatever. It's 'Hydraulic' btw, not hydrolic. Not gonna joust with you. Don't really care.
 

salecker

Minister of Fire
Aug 22, 2010
1,140
Northern Canada
Whatever. It's 'Hydraulic' btw, not hydrolic. Not gonna joust with you. Don't really care.
Me neither:p even less than the spelling correction