I just installed a Napoleon 1400 pedestal freestanding woodstove. (I love it!) Great stove except I feel a little uncomforable that even when I fully damper the unit, it continues to burn fairly robustly. I'd like to be able to fine-tune away from the preset factory adjustment in order to subdue and more completely control the draft and prevent any possibility of a runaway fire. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Napoleon - draft adjustment
- Thread starter Warm and Cozy
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
Welcome. Can you describe the flue that the stove is connected to? What size and how long?
Also, what kind of wood are you burning? What size are the splits?
Also, what kind of wood are you burning? What size are the splits?
I'm burning hard maple and the unit is corner mounted with a 6" flue that extends up 3ft and then elbows the same distance sideways into a 40ft masonry chimney. Although I have lots of draft, I've never experienced an runaway fire in this unit. Don't get me wrong, I actually CAN damper the unit down. It's just that when the box is loaded and fully involved and it's pumping out more heat than I want, I'd like to damper the unit down even further than just an efficient burn. I'd like to come close to extinguishing the fire. I suppose I could install a plain old key damper on the flue, but they look ugly as all getout and I'd rather simply adjust the internal damper if at all possible.
That 40 ft flue is tall. What is the interior dimension of the masonry flue?
A basic butterfly damper sure sounds necessary here. Larger splits may slow down the fire as well.
A basic butterfly damper sure sounds necessary here. Larger splits may slow down the fire as well.
I have a 1402, had my second real fire last night. Lit it around 5pm and reloaded 2x , house went from 66 to 86 and had to open the windows, dampered it down about 9pm, had about a 3 inch hot coal bed at 6am, using walnut and locust. Can't wait till it gets cold.
Since I began burning pinon, oak and other excellent wood, I have had the same consideration with my Napoleon 1400p. I studied the damper under the firebox and am thinking I may create a slight modification to the intake on the front draft and air wash flow system. Like, by a 1/2" or so. If you look into the pedestal area where the ask box resides, you will see this setup. Really easy. That seems like the easiest way to get a tigher control of the intake as when I place these high BTU wood types in it, that thing really cranks out the heat. There are two air flow portals on the bottom... one for the secondary burn and the other for the lower and airwash systems. I will experiment with this 1/2" or so modification which is nothing more than trying a a fire or two with some heat tape covering the intake area. Temporary of course, but if it works the way I think it will, problem solved, which is your problem too. And will affect a better long term solution.
Warm and Cozy said:
The napolean is a epa non cat secondary combustion stove, is that not right?
If you choke off the primary intake air , you will get into a burning zone that is not efficient, make drop below the temp required for function of the secondary smoke combustion chamber and end up sending a lot of smoke up the chiminey.
I am no expert, but i would think that is the reason that the factory put a stop on the primary air control,to prevent you from shutting it down too much causing the stove to send smoke up the chiminey.
what you prepose doing is not dangerous and should not harm the stove, either but your fire may end up burning in the creasole zone & you might get some creasole in you chimney.
anyway good luck with your test.
If you choke off the primary intake air , you will get into a burning zone that is not efficient, make drop below the temp required for function of the secondary smoke combustion chamber and end up sending a lot of smoke up the chiminey.
I am no expert, but i would think that is the reason that the factory put a stop on the primary air control,to prevent you from shutting it down too much causing the stove to send smoke up the chiminey.
what you prepose doing is not dangerous and should not harm the stove, either but your fire may end up burning in the creasole zone & you might get some creasole in you chimney.
anyway good luck with your test.
Yes, it is as stated, a test.
There are also two intakes. Am just looking at the air wash and front. I will be able to tell if efficiency goes down. More ash for starters. And there are other ways to skin this cat. Like altering my stacking procedures. That makes a huge diff too I have found...
There are also two intakes. Am just looking at the air wash and front. I will be able to tell if efficiency goes down. More ash for starters. And there are other ways to skin this cat. Like altering my stacking procedures. That makes a huge diff too I have found...
eernest4 said:
Warm and Cozy said:
Cozy, I had the same problem. Check out my posts under my profiles. Tried the tape thing. Put my chimney through puberty in one burn. Ive tried to explain this to other people before. My chimney is a 15 ft type/class A vent. Had a beautiful rolling flame though. Filled the glass right up. Good Luck. I was only able to see it burn softwoods as thats all I had available for it.
Dont take my signature too personal it was just my opinion. Again good luck. :coolsmile:
- Nov 9, 2006
- 121
Hello Warm and Cozy
We have had our Napolean 1400p for a year. We love it to. Our chimney is 35 ft with a 6" stainless liner in a brick chimney, it drafts very well. Our house is 2000 sq ft 2 story and the stove is in the basement.
Several times I simply put to much wood in the stove on a 50 degree day and overheated the house. Now that its 35 degrees outside I can fill the stove completely and damper it down and the stove runs clean and will hold 300f measured at 18 inches up the pipe. Once I had the stove packed with oak pallet material and it went to almost 700f and stayed for far longer than I wanted it to. I think the stove and air damper are well engineered. In my case I just needed to learn how the stove reacts. I also had to curb my tendency to pack the stove full on 50f days. I am burning white oak, black locust and cherry. I like how the damper works on my stove but you may have more draft or somthing or other.
GlennG
We have had our Napolean 1400p for a year. We love it to. Our chimney is 35 ft with a 6" stainless liner in a brick chimney, it drafts very well. Our house is 2000 sq ft 2 story and the stove is in the basement.
Several times I simply put to much wood in the stove on a 50 degree day and overheated the house. Now that its 35 degrees outside I can fill the stove completely and damper it down and the stove runs clean and will hold 300f measured at 18 inches up the pipe. Once I had the stove packed with oak pallet material and it went to almost 700f and stayed for far longer than I wanted it to. I think the stove and air damper are well engineered. In my case I just needed to learn how the stove reacts. I also had to curb my tendency to pack the stove full on 50f days. I am burning white oak, black locust and cherry. I like how the damper works on my stove but you may have more draft or somthing or other.
GlennG
- Status
