hey, new to the forum AND wood burning. I bought a new wood stove and had the chimney inspected. i have a clay lined chimney that looks like 8x8 that looks like its in good condition. The problem is the clay liner stops at the roof line where as the chimney keeps going up 5’ or so. the “pro” said i needed to add more clay liner which he doesnt work with or he can install a stainless steel liner in the summer. so i guess my question is, is there any way to add on to the existing clay liner for the last 5’or so? i was hopingto get this thing up and running to save on electric. my chimney isnt very big to begin with
need help/ info connecting stove
- Thread starter newcenturystove
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prezes13
Minister of Fire
What you want to do is install insulated stainless steel liner. From the stove all the way up. Please take a pic and let us know more about the install.
Yes clay can be put in but i wouldnt bother i would just do stainless. And it can be done during the winter. No need to wait till spring.
The clay liners stops about where the roof is, trying to get this thing to work for as cheap as possible without burning the house down. where the thimble is sticking out I have about 6" of clearance from the ceiling, so i know i'd need at least double wall pipe going from the stove up to it.
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jetsam
Minister of Fire
If you rig it up now, it'll just be more work and expense later, even if nothing bad happens.
Creosote condenses most on the coldest parts of the chimney. Once you get a bunch of creosote on that unlined cinder block right at the roofline- do you want a 2000° fire one cinder block away from your roof timbers?
You can clean the chimney and install an insulated liner yourself without breaking the bank. The liner insulation both stops creosote buildup by keeping the flue warm, and protects you in the event of a fire.
Creosote condenses most on the coldest parts of the chimney. Once you get a bunch of creosote on that unlined cinder block right at the roofline- do you want a 2000° fire one cinder block away from your roof timbers?
You can clean the chimney and install an insulated liner yourself without breaking the bank. The liner insulation both stops creosote buildup by keeping the flue warm, and protects you in the event of a fire.
the chimney is currently clean. Where can I get the cheapest/best liner? Do I need to remove the thimble to install the T? Do I need to bust out the 8x8 clay liner?
jetsam
Minister of Fire
If the old liner has room for the new liner inside of it, you can keep the clay. If you can't get the new liner down the clay liner, you need to break out the clay.
You said you bought a stove- what size liner does it require?
I'm not familiar with the range of what's available, but the insulated 6" stuff I've seen was a bit over 7" O.D., so pick one that is less than 7.5" and you will have a quarter inch on both sides to play with.
Check for bottlenecks at the smoke shelf / throat / damper area and make sure the liner will fit before you order.
I'm not going to recommend one because I've only ever bought one kind, but I'll poke @bholler who is a chimney pro as well as a probationary member of The BK Conspiracy.
What stove did you buy? If it requires an 8" flue, that changes the conversation.
You said you bought a stove- what size liner does it require?
I'm not familiar with the range of what's available, but the insulated 6" stuff I've seen was a bit over 7" O.D., so pick one that is less than 7.5" and you will have a quarter inch on both sides to play with.
Check for bottlenecks at the smoke shelf / throat / damper area and make sure the liner will fit before you order.
I'm not going to recommend one because I've only ever bought one kind, but I'll poke @bholler who is a chimney pro as well as a probationary member of The BK Conspiracy.
What stove did you buy? If it requires an 8" flue, that changes the conversation.
As far as where to get the cheapest best liner there are lots of online retailers for them. The best stuff is heavy wall flex liner but not the cheapest. You may not need to remove the thimble but if you only have 6" above it that is a problem. That means you dont even have enough masonry above it to protect the sill plate so you would have to slide in a peice of class a around the tee snout to get that clearance. Then there is the problem of clearance to the ceiling from the pipe most doublewall pipe needs 9" above it. And yes to fit an insulated liner in there which i can allmost gaurantee you need you will have to remove the clay liners.
It's a Century fw3000 with a 6" flue. The thimble is 6" ID. How do you get the T for the steal liner in?
Liner tees are 2 parts the body that attaches to the liner and the snout that attaches to the body.
The problem is you need 12" of masonry between that crock and combustibles. If it is 6" from the ceiling you cant have that. So you need to open up the wall and place a peice of 7" class a chimney in there to protect the sill plate.
Ok, the crock is only 6" ID so should I remove the crock or what? If I remove it do I just mortar in the tee coming through the wall or something else? also I can't fit 6" double pipe inside the crock
Again if it is 6 " from the ceiling it does not have enough masonry between it and the sill plate.
Understood, trying to figure out what I need to do to get the liner in first, then worry about the inside portion of it
The problem is putting the liner in when the crock is to close to the sill plate is unsafe. To protect that sill plate you need to put a section of insulated chimney pipe in the wall to keep heat from transferring through the masonry and igniting the sill plate. This is part of doing the liner.
And there is no reason to put the liner in if you cant safely hook up a stove to it because you dont have enough room to get the required clearances.
So you are saying put class A around the crock?ok. But how do I put 6” liner T through a 6” inside diameter crock?
No the class a goes in the wall inplace of the crock. But it is pointless is there isnt room to hook up pipe
so bust the crock out and replace it with a class A. i thought the point of the crock was to protect the pipe going thru wall?
The crock is simply a passage through the wall. Once you put solid stainless through attached to the liner it is not needed. But with a crock you need 12" of masonry between it and combustible materials. That makes yours unsafe which is why you need the insulated pipe.
But all of this is pointless if you dont have room to safely hook up the pipe.
The peice of wood sitting ontop of your foundation that the house is then built on.
Would I remove the clay thimble I have currently sticking out of my wall and replace it with this, so I can run double wall from the stove to the inside clay liner?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008748DIW/?tag=hearthamazon-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008748DIW/?tag=hearthamazon-20
It is the same answer as the last time you asked. You don't have enough masonry above your crock for it to be safe. You need to remove the crock and make enough room to put a piece of class a through the wall make it safe.
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these adapters for masonry chimney says 6" clearance to ceiling and or combustables, which I have. So that doesn't answer my question on how to properly use this adapter
That is the clearance requirement for DSP pipe, not the adapter which is only for adapting to a masonry structure. To do it properly with combustibles nearby this is another option for DSP.
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Ok, the option Bholler is talking about is this type of pipe, remove the crock and morter this in? then go from this pipe to double wall?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FQ59KRS/?tag=hearthamazon-20
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