Need Help! Low 2"on 12" roof pitch prevents using attic insulation shield, What do you suggest? Plea

[JPapiPE]

Once again I am calling on the vast score of knowledge contained within the people of this forum. I do have a very low pitched metal roof (2" on 12") so there is hardly any space from the top of the ceiling to the bottom of the roof deck. Maybe about 6" where my chimney pipe will pass throught the ceiling and roof, but then thats on a slant. If you study the photo you can see where I rolled the insulation back and also the home made gussets securing the truss section together. Fortunately I do have a continuous ventilated vinyl soffit (stuffed with insulation in the photo to keep out the bees). I was thinking that if I could extend those gusetts back a bit and in stall a piece of 24ga steel from the top of the ceiling to the bottom of the roof deck, I could effectively close off that section of attic. My concern is that i do have the blown-in insulators coming when my stove install is complete. If I were to seal off any access to this space and remove the insulation at the eaves, which would allow the soffit vent to do it's work do you think this method would pass the saftey check?
Many thanks as always, Joe

 

[webbie]

Simple enough...

The attic insulation shields were originally optional. They became mandatory because some installers and insulation contractors placed fiberglass and blown insulation against the pipe, thereby overheating it. It needs air around it to keep cool.

The AIS could be cut down, replaced with your own barrier (of sheet metal, or even lumber if over 2" away.

Keep in mind as you "engineer" your solution that the idea is so nothing can fall down into the ceiling support box or lean against the pipe. That should be fairly easy to do.

 

[JPapiPE]

Thanks Craig, your advice is greatly appreciated...as always .
Highest Regards Joe

 

[begreen]

While you're in there, staple some screening over the place where the bees like to get in. The ceiling support box should be held up by building a 2x4 frame to adequately support it. Tip: If you have a good cordless drill, predrill and screw the 2 x 4 frame together and then in place with 3" decking screws instead of nailing it.

 

[JPapiPE]

Excellant Idea Woody! I do plan to use the duravent pipe system, parts accessories and all i can get from Simpson. Can you elucidate on the the ceiling support system? I had planned, after doing research, that a round Simpson ceiling support was required for my job. But i have only seen a picture of it and cant see how it would fasten to a 2x4 frame. I also believe that i need a Simpson close clearance adapter to accept my sleeved DVL stove pipe. Yet you seem to be talking about a support box. Are we on the same page? Also what is the outside diameter of 6" DVL stovepipe? I shall have to buy a stove adapter to hook the dvl to my stove.
Thanks Joe

 

[begreen]

Yes, you could use a round support, duravent part #9445. You make a 2x4 box frame that goes right up to the metal of the support. It is 2" larger in diameter that the class A pipe in order to maintain clearances to combustibles. (picture posted) Once the class A section is installed and supported, you could then add an attic insulation shield cut down at an angle to match the roof pitch. or like Craig says, make your own out of some sheet metal and pop rivet or screw it to the round metal support. Tip: make a template out of poster board or stiff paper and get it just right. Then trace this on sheet metal, then maybe add a few tabs on top in order to screw it to the underside of the roof with 3/8" screws.

There are trim collars (square or round) for the interior side to dress up and cover the edges of the sheet rock hole in the ceiling. I've posted a picture of ours which I painted white.

 

[JPapiPE]

I can build the frame you suggest in a heartbeat. I have 2-18volt dewalt drills and all my connections are always done with dw screws. But how does the round ceiling plate attach into the framing? Lateral screws? or what? I am told this ceiling support device will hold many feet of duravent HT pipe, but i only need it to support 6' of HT pipe. That is the question i need answered....How does the round ceiling support attach to the side framing? Please enlighten me?
Your humble scribe , Joe

 

[begreen]

Yes, there are prepunched holes in the support for this. Just screw it to the wood with #10 x 1" sheet metal screws. The shear strength of the screws is very high and will support the weight easily.

 

[KWillets]

The Duratech installation manual gives a configuration for running the square ceiling support box all the way from the ceiling up to the roof deck. Take a look at figures 18 and 20. You slit the corners of the support box where it protrudes above the roof, bend the sides down onto the roof deck, and nail. Then the roof flashing is all you need -- no insulation shield, and no radiation shield, etc.