Need help selecting wood stove for a novice

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

aswhale

New Member
May 10, 2025
4
ohio
Hello all,

I am writing to help with selecting a new wood stove. I currently have a 1970s hearthmate wood stove (given to me for free) that I have used for the last 3 years. I want to upgrade to something that produces far more heat and is not falling apart (its warped and the dampner is bent). The hearthmate can keep my entire house warn until 20 or so degrees before the furnace has to help. My fireplace is currently to small to fit any insert without cutting the arch away. so this will lead me to a stove and a rear exhaust ideally.

When I install my furnace, I installed a large return vent to my furnace in the fireplace room to suck all the heat out of the room. There is a inline fan on a 8in duck to suck the hot air from the room and push to the furnace fan. This does a really good job at moving heat from one end of the house to another.

I'm at a Airbnb that has a jotul f500 v2 and I really love the look. I been looking up the jotul f500 v3 and hearthstone Manchester since they for 20in logs and have rear exhaust. I am hesitant to buy either one as the cat worries me. I have a box that can burn anything and does not care about moisture. My wood is uncovered until 2 months prior to burning, so the moisture is relatively high.

I could use help on selecting a stove that will not be too large or small and can be roughly handled since I have 3 years of experience burning.

-1900 square ft ranch
-moderate insolation
-fireplace on one side of house, not centered.
-hot air is sucked to the furnace from fireplace room
-room is open to the house with 9ft opening.
-wood is seasoned 2 years
-mix of wood, maple, oak, ash, and hickory
-budget of 4000
-want to be sole heat source for entire winter
-14ft flue and is insolated
-current stove is bolted to the face of the fireplace and is not a insert

Also, don't bash the painted brick. The house was bought from a smoker and was the only way to seal the smell and tar.
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] Need help selecting wood stove for a novice
    20221119_185233.webp
    243.6 KB · Views: 31
What are the dimensions of the fireplace opening and including depth at top and bottom?
 
It sounds like a medium to large stove might fit, but check dimensions carefully. Due to the short chimney flue, I recommend sticking with an easy breathing insert in the 2.5-3.0 cu ft range from Regency, Pacific Energy, Osburn (or Drolet).

Arch? That may impact what fits. Measure twice.

Note that ranches can be hard to evenly heat with the rooms at the far end of the hallway losing out, if this is the layout. Using a furnace fan to even out the heat might work, but frequently the duct system is so lossy that it is not too successful. The best chance for sucess is usually when all of the ducting in the heated envelope of the house and fully insulated. Then there is still the electricity for a blower running constantly. Sometimes there are simpler ways to move the heat. It's good that the wood is seasoned 2 yrs. It may take 4 full cords to heat the place.
 
That fireplace is only 24.5" at center of arch and 13" at corners? That's pretty short, curious even about a medium sized insert fitting.
Measure carefully. Good luck.
 
That photo is what I want to do since my fireplace would need to be cut to accept a small insert. I like the jotul f500 I took the photo over, I am not sure how forgiving the v3 is.
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] Need help selecting wood stove for a novice
    20250512_170323.webp
    533.3 KB · Views: 16
Check out the Woodstock stoves. Some are pricey. But they rear vent.
 
That photo is what I want to do since my fireplace would need to be cut to accept a small insert. I like the jotul f500 I took the photo over, I am not sure how forgiving the v3 is.
Is the intent to remove the raised hearth and extend it at floor level quite a bit?
 
Yea, move it to the floor leaving the fireplace and hearth alone. Then add 48in or so horizontal flue going back to the chimney. That will have me 1500 in labor to cut and add a new lintel (cut the corners out).

I had a neopolen s25i qouted with labor to cut the brick for 5k. I look at it if I can put a stove in front of the brick I can get a really nice one.
 
Yea, move it to the floor leaving the fireplace and hearth alone. Then add 48in or so horizontal flue going back to the chimney. That will have me 1500 in labor to cut and add a new lintel (cut the corners out).

I had a neopolen s25i qouted with labor to cut the brick for 5k. I look at it if I can put a stove in front of the brick I can get a really nice one.
You may want to completely research the effect of attempting to run any stove on 48" of horizontal venting before proceeding.
 
Yea, move it to the floor leaving the fireplace and hearth alone. Then add 48in or so horizontal flue going back to the chimney. That will have me 1500 in labor to cut and add a new lintel (cut the corners out).
That will definitely affect stove performance as a draft weakener and could be a creosote trap. Smoke doesn't really want to travel horizontally. If this is a single story home and the flue height from fireplace to chimney top is already short (<16 ft) then this setup is not going to perform well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: EbS-P