Need help with American harvest 6039

[Cowgirl1970]

We purchased a home that has this stove. We have replaced both gaskets on door/window, cleaned the blowers, pipes etc... and are still getting a dirty dirty burn. This stove does NOT have a manual draft adjustment, it has the A,B,C buttons on the control panel, can anyone tell me how to use those to set the draft and auger speed please and what the best settings are? We are burning Propellets only, no corn. Thanks bunches

 

[alternativeheat]

We purchased a home that has this stove. We have replaced both gaskets on door/window, cleaned the blowers, pipes etc... and are still getting a dirty dirty burn. This stove does NOT have a manual draft adjustment, it has the A,B,C buttons on the control panel, can anyone tell me how to use those to set the draft and auger speed please and what the best settings are? We are burning Propellets only, no corn. Thanks bunches

I don't know much about your stove but until others who do answer you might try the search feature at the top of the page. There are several threads on this model that could get you started in the right direction.. Also if you don't have a manual most stove manuals are available in PDF online free.

 

[Cowgirl1970]

I don't know much about your stove but until others who do answer you might try the search feature at the top of the page. There are several threads on this model that could get you started in the right direction.. Also if you don't have a manual most stove manuals are available in PDF online free.

We do have the manual but it isn't helpful when it comes to programming. I've read all the threads on the 6039 but couldn't find one that answered my questions.

 

[Lake Girl]

Here's the manual .... (broken link removed to http://www.usstove.com/resources/OwnersManuals/English%20Owners%20Manuals/6039%20Manual.pdf)

I know you said you cleaned it but if you didn't have the manual you probably missed inner smoke pathways ... page 14 shows the areas that may be the culprit the clean-outs. I have a dryer lint brush and a hose attached to my shop vac to get into all the nooks and crannies. Depending on the stove a wire may be the option.

Keep us posted... Welcome to the forum!

 

[alternativeheat]

We do have the manual but it isn't helpful when it comes to programming. I've read all the threads on the 6039 but couldn't find one that answered my questions.

Ok, well someone will be along eventually, those were just suggestions.

One thing I did notice in the manual is that obviously the stove has a corn mode and that it ships in that mode. Did the old owner burn corn by chance ? I.E. it's not set to burn corn when you are burning pellets ?

I also noticed an Auto mode.

 

[Cowgirl1970]

Here's the manual .... (broken link removed to http://www.usstove.com/resources/OwnersManuals/English%20Owners%20Manuals/6039%20Manual.pdf)

I know you said you cleaned it but if you didn't have the manual you probably missed inner smoke pathways ... page 14 shows the areas that may be the culprit the clean-outs. I have a dryer lint brush and a hose attached to my shop vac to get into all the nooks and crannies. Depending on the stove a wire may be the option.

Keep us posted... Welcome to the forum!

 

[Cowgirl1970]

Yes, we did see the cleanouts on page 14 and are cleaning them out on a regular basis, we went through the whole stove, the old owner said he was never happy with it, I'm not sure what all he burnt, it had old pellets in it when we took possession of the house and we did clean all those out and buy new pellets. I'm sure it's set for corn that's why I want to see if anyone can tell me how to program it for pellets. We are just frustrated, been messing with it for over a month and now that we have done everything we were told to do it's still burning dirty. Hopefully it's something simple.

 

[Lake Girl]

Apparently A & B can be deactivated at the factory. Not sure if they remain activated if unit is unplugged for any period of time so you may want to ensure these adjustments are functional to start. page 16 instructions.

First start off by writing down the values that are showing when you press the buttons - at least gives you a starting point. When you change a value, make small changes and allow enough time to record any burn characteristics changes. Record... Each stove venting situation and pellets used may create different conditions so there is no "right" value - you have to find what works for your situation by experimentation... High fuel and low air create a dirty burn... as does clogged internal smoke pathways as it affects air.
Do you have an Outside Air Kit (OAK)? What configuration (total length vertical, horizontal, tees, elbows) is your exhaust venting? This will effect your draft....

A adjusts your fuel - higher numbers means more fuel is added. Auger will turn more frequently... What value is shown when you press A?
B adjusts your air - higher numbers means more air. What value?
C pauses the auger for 1 minute to stop adding fuel...

When adjusting, stay on one heat range and only change one variable at a time either air or fuel. Keep us posted

 

[alternativeheat]

Yes, we did see the cleanouts on page 14 and are cleaning them out on a regular basis, we went through the whole stove, the old owner said he was never happy with it, I'm not sure what all he burnt, it had old pellets in it when we took possession of the house and we did clean all those out and buy new pellets. I'm sure it's set for corn that's why I want to see if anyone can tell me how to program it for pellets. We are just frustrated, been messing with it for over a month and now that we have done everything we were told to do it's still burning dirty. Hopefully it's something simple.

It sounds like an air setting over 4 is generally used for corn. You might try 3. From there dial down your feed rate.

If the old owner was never satisfied then that leads one to wonder about the install. As Lake Girl mentioned about the venting ? Make sure that is all within spec.. Notice that on this stove they give little leeway for vertical rise before moving to 4" pipe. Also 2500 ft altitude mandates 4" vent. Lets hope it's all the wrong settings currently though and once dialed in the thing hums along beautifully !

Edit: also along the lines of install, do you have an outside air kit on the stove and if not how tight is your house ?

 

[Lake Girl]

The stove comes set-up to burn corn ... This is what they mean: "Corn, as does some other fuels, requires more air than wood pellets to burn effeciently(sic)." It was originally set up with a higher air/fuel ratio. Where it is now is anyone's guess.

 

[alternativeheat]

The stove comes set-up to burn corn ... This is what they mean: "Corn, as does some other fuels, requires more air than wood pellets to burn effeciently(sic)." It was originally set up with a higher air/fuel ratio. Where it is now is anyone's guess.

Yep that's true enough ! I was hoping someone who runs one of these successfully on pellets might have chimed in by now.

 

[Bob E]

Wish I could help, but mine has a different control board and the manual damper... First thing I would do is try to turn up the combustion blower. Putting a thermometer in the heat exchanger vents above the door really helps figuring out how to dial it in. I started with a meat thermometer, but that pegged out when I got up to around heat range 5 or 6. Now I'm using the thermometer off of my grill. My stove is running on the verge of warming and bbq at the moment . It gives you a point of reference to determine if the changes you are making are helping or not. More heat is good, and less heat is bad. Give it a half hour or so after you make an adjustment before you check the temperature reading.
I know my stove burns pretty dirty in the lower heat ranges, turns the glass black with soot, but there isn't any smoke coming out of the vent pipe or anything. I also get the best heat when I burn it a little on the dirty side. The flames reach up and lick the top of the fire box putting more heat into the heat exchanger which puts more heat into the room.
It could be the pellets if you're burning those WD softwoods.

 

[SidecarFlip]

not sure, but i think you can upgrade to the 4 button digital board like the hf's have. it's the bomb. you can custom tailor every aspect of combustion

 

[mustangwagz]

Welcome! Youve got the same stove as me. When you get a chance to shut it down, Unlplug the stove wait a moment, and then plug it back in...Take note of what version the board is. It'll pop up a couple numbers, followed by a letter THen it'll be ready for operation. Different models of boards had different settings.

There is A LOT of settings available for this stove, once you find out what board you have, it'll be easier for us 6039 owners to help. These are very adjustable stove, so no worries, we'll help ya get it dialed in. As a previous poster said, they burn dirty at low unless you modify the settings. No big deal though. As long as you dont have black soot rolling off the tip of your flames, you'll be fine. As Lakegirl said, There's passages behind that fancy "brick" looking back board that need cleaned also. If you remove the "brick" and look through the holes in the back plate, the one on the right hand side will show a passage to the combustion blower..see if thats dirty. Also make sure your clean out plates are properly installed in the bottom as well. Make sure they cover both bottom holes and rear holes at the bottom.

keep us posted and also, fill us in on what your exhaust system consists of and IF you hooked up the OAK. "outside air kit"

what settings are you currently running? On mine, i can run the auto settings...by auto settings, i mean by adjusting the Left button which is Heat Range (HR) Dpending on version of board, you may or may not have "auto" or Manual" led lights.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I have both my 'portholes' plugged with electrical knockout plugs btw. I pop the plugs and get in there with a small paintrush and scrub away.....

 

[mustangwagz]

I have both my 'portholes' plugged with electrical knockout plugs btw. I pop the plugs and get in there with a small paintrush and scrub away.....

Ditto! 1-3/4 knock outs will fill the void. Then install "fancy back board" and be happy. i noticed a little bit of a difference in heat, and a major difference in the amount of ash behind the cleanout plates.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I knew my 'idea' wasn't original.

I use a bottle brush on a twisted wire handle to get the ash along the floor behind the bulkhead and push it to the cleanouts to be vacuumed up and a 14" long length of garden hose stuffed in the small diameter adapter on the shop vac, snaked into the pipe that leads to the combustion blower to suck that out, you have to cut the end you push down the pipe at a slant or it hangs up. Maybe thats an original idea, maybe not.

I also take a 1x1 stick and 'flog' the side plates on each side of the firebox to dislodge any ash clumps back there... my wife thinks I'm nutz beating on the stove like it's a drum......

While flogging and beating, I keep the suction hose in the door to collect the dust I'm making....

 

[Lake Girl]

SidecarFlip - I must be nuts too ... well I don't actually beat on the stove but most of the rest is the same Dryer lint brush instead of the bottle brush ...

 

[alternativeheat]

You guys have me so inspired about this stove now I want to go out and buy one, LOL ! Where is our OP ? They have a lot more to work with now.

 

[SidecarFlip]

SidecarFlip - I must be nuts too ... well I don't actually beat on the stove but most of the rest is the same Dryer lint brush instead of the bottle brush ...

Lake Girl....

Get a length of broomstick or anything wood thats about 2 feet long and when you clean it, open the door and with the stick centered inside, hitting the side baffels, smack it back and forth, you'll be amazed at how muc falls out from behind the baffles (and how much will drop behind the rear bulkhead too. It's hard to clean behind the front/side baffles but the board smack does the trick with no damage.

BTW, if you use the angle cut garden hose section in your shop vac in the combustion air pipe channel to clean it and the leaf blower trick on the venting, you'll vever have to pull your combustion fan and clean the chamber, Mine hasn't been off for at least 3 years now. That saves grief and red rtv.

 

[alternativeheat]

Lake Girl....



BTW, if you use the angle cut garden hose section in your shop vac in the combustion air pipe channel to clean it and the leaf blower trick on the venting, you'll vever have to pull your combustion fan and clean the chamber, Mine hasn't been off for at least 3 years now. That saves grief and red rtv.

My shop vac came with a length of hose and that is how I clean the vent from stove to T and with no danger of whacking the ESP probe. That is when it needs it which mainly is with dirty pellets and low burn. With clean pellets and higher burns nothing collects in that length of pipe, most of it settles in the clean out T, which is convenient. I do get some ash way up in the 26 ft of vertical pipe though. That I brush.

 

[SidecarFlip]

My vertical (4") is about 20 ft, give or take. 3-4 at the cleanout and 4 after that. I actually have pretty good draft with a hot pipe. 11 years on the venting and no issues other than a black terminatioin cap from soot.

For the longest time, I had no idea what an 'OAK' was, thought people were referring to hardwood pellets, then dense me, I realized it was outside combustion air., which I've always had anyway. When it's real cold outside the flex pipe for the outside air supply frosts up......

I like the stoves for a couple reasons, one, the infinite adjustability and two, they are user friendly. I don't like the cost of replacement consumables (which at some point) I'll fix by making them with the exception of the window glass and backer boards and the what I consider sub standard workmanship, even my 11 year old stove has welds that cosmetically look like bird shitte and ill fitting sheet metal, no excuse on a stove that costs over a grand, even it it cost a dollar, there is no excuse for crappy workmanship.

I also don't like the human representation at USSC. Everytime I've called there, they seem to have a nonchalant attitude, like they are doing you a favor talking to you, no, I did them a favor by buying their product and keeping them working.....

 

[SidecarFlip]

Interestingly, one of the 3" horizontial pipes in the house (the one that fits to the stove adapter) is from my original, from 30 years ago pipe setup, so the stuff will last forever with minimal care.... FYI.

 

[SidecarFlip]

My shop vac came with a length of hose and that is how I clean the vent from stove to T and with no danger of whacking the ESP probe. That is when it needs it which mainly is with dirty pellets and low burn. With clean pellets and higher burns nothing collects in that length of pipe, most of it settles in the clean out T, which is convenient. I do get some ash way up in the 26 ft of vertical pipe though. That I brush.

I ain't got no ESP probe...lol In fact, I have no probes, only a vacuum port in the firebox on the lower left side, No ignitor either, My 'ignition' is jelled firestarter' I prefer simple, less things to fail and/or break. One reason I have no desire to get another, more complex unit. More stuff to break and more chances of a cold stove.....

 

[alternativeheat]

I ain't got no ESP probe...lol In fact, I have no probes, only a vacuum port in the firebox on the lower left side, No ignitor either, My 'ignition' is jelled firestarter' I prefer simple, less things to fail and/or break. One reason I have no desire to get another, more complex unit. More stuff to break and more chances of a cold stove.....

Yeah I get it.
Off topic :
I'm looking to heat my basement part time ( work shop down there and it's pretty chilly since losing my kerosene heater). Now that they banned kerosene heaters in this state and it seems far and few between dealers who sell the fuel and at a stupid price when they do, I need to look at other ways to heat it. One way is an inexpensive stove, the other is an even more inexpensiveness vent less propane unit. I don't need lots and lots of BTU's but would like to not see my breath in mid Jan down there. Now if they made a direct vent coal stove that wasn't outrageously priced I'd consider that. At one point in time I had what could only be classified as a homemade coal furnace down there but wouldn't dare do that in this day and age plus the venting would be crazy high in both cost and height. that thing easily brought the basement up to 90 deg. which I don't need either ! Yeah we've lived here a long time.