Need help with extending the flue on Englander 30 install

[mrmojo182]

Hi all,

I am new to the forum, and also have a new install. I recently installed a 30, with a new flex liner from Rockford. With said liner, I also installed an 18 inch flue extender from Rockford on the top plate. My currently chimney height is about 16 feet, the minimum per ESW. What I want to do is extend my flue, without buying an Extend a flue. I think the best way to do it is to somehow connect my flex liner to Class A flue pipe at the top plate some how. I need to figure out how to do that, or hear other suggestions. I want to get up to 20 feet in height.

Thanks,

Jon

 

[DAKSY]

Find a vendor who can sell you a 4' section of Class A & see if the manufacturer of
that Class A offers an anchor plate that'll fit the chimney pipe & the liner...
If there isn't one available for THAT Class A, you'll hafta find another
manufacturer who DOES offer one.
You'll also hafta get a cap for the Class A & a roof brace kit to make everything secure...
HTH

 

[Fsappo]

Find a vendor who can sell you a 4' section of Class A & see if the manufacturer of
that Class A offers an anchor plate that'll fit the chimney pipe & the liner...
If there isn't one available for THAT Class A, you'll hafta find another
manufacturer who DOES offer one.
You'll also hafta get a cap for the Class A & a roof brace kit to make everything secure...
HTH

Exactly what HTH said. Not sure the price of an extend a flue, but I'd guess a 4' length of class A, an anchor plate, cap and roof brace kit would end up costing you $250-300

 

[BrotherBart]

Are you having draft problems with the current setup?

 

[DAKSY]

Exactly what HTH said.

LOL!
HTH = Hope This Helps...
DAKSY = Me...

 

[Fsappo]

Ahh, I'm smarter now!

 

[daryl]

Simpson Duravent makes a transition plate to do just what you want to do.Stock #9040A. On their web site it is in the duraliner section.

 

[mrmojo182]

Thanks for the help guys, I missed that in the duravent catalog. Brother Bart, I don't have a draft gauge readily accessible, however, i basically have two 45s in my run, and a chimney cap. even with store bought, kiln dried fire wood (using a multi-meter, MC was about 18-19%), which lights off super super quick, and burns hot, my stove top temps never go above 600 or 650 (mostly stays right around 550 for the main part of the burn). Now I know thats a good thing, and the stove is operating alright, but it doesn't seem to allow a lot of room for damper control. If the cost of extending the flue was cheap enough, I figured I would go with that before buying a draft gauge, unless anyone has any ideas or leads on a good cheap one (130 seems to be about the price). Let me know what you think. Thanks for all the help this far. Also, I have an interior chimney, no insulation on the liner, however a proper block off plate at the lintel.

Thanks,

Jon

 

[BrotherBart]

So the problem is that the stove is operating perfectly and you just have got to find a way to fix that? :lol:

Believe me, overdraft a 30-NC and it will scare the crap out of ya. Stick with what ya got. It took me two seasons to settle mine down to where you are right out of the box.

 

[mrmojo182]

brother bart, thanks for the info! And to everyone else, thanks for the help. I don't know what I will do then, maybe just keep trying to perfect the burn.

Jon

 

[learnin to burn]

Check this Manometer out if you realy think you need it.

(broken link removed to http://www.drillspot.com/products/67993/dwyer_mark_ii_25_molded_plastic_u_inclined_manometer)