Been using the TL 300 for around 10 years, this one has the new style after burner. I have to replace the damper assy, it warped a bit to the front allowing the rod to fall past it jamming it. Got the top open and am now burning with damper open and regulating by the air slide. Can find no info on disassembly anywhere.
Need help with Harman TL300 disassembly
- Thread starter paulnlee
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
I guess I'm replying to myself. Damper open just doesn't do it. Too much heat. Have an offset needlenose plier that grips the nut on the damper and will do it manually, just need good gloves which can be had not at Lowe's but your local welding outfit
Last edited by a moderator:
I have only done one i dont remember well enough to walk someone through it without seeing it
I really don't need a walk thru, replaced many parts on my earlier 300 including the damper assy. Just seems to me there's a better way than going thru the inners. Would like to take off the top but the damn nuts are on the inside. I think I'll be OK til May when I shut it down. Harmon cust. svc is lacking as are the dealers here and their 'TECHS" The dealer is contacting Harmon to see if any issues with warping. They will blame me for running hot. All wood very seasoned, been doing this for over 25 years, started with the 2BO but was too small.
Started disassembly today, only one frozen now busted bolt but it goes into damper assy so no big deal. Both lower bolts on both rear plates look frozen, have to come out to replace afterburner
Aren't those lower ones through bolted? On most versions they are. If that is the case just break them off and replace them.
Yes they are. As far as the cracks go, they're 1/2" in each rear corner of top door so if Harmon does nothing I need heat. So far they're insisting it's up to the selling dealer to determine warranty and dealer is fighting with them. Harmon actually e-mailed me that they don't do warranty. Tomorrow I'm going to try and remove top door assy for easier access to damper. My parts list is growing and might be cheaper to buy new.
They will expand usually pretty quickly on a top. I wouldn't even count on another season out of it.
It may go like that for quite awhile but I wouldn't be putting any time or money into a stove in that condition.
I know exactly where the cracks are I have seen many of them on harmans that have been run with the bypass open to much.
If the images are not too big, they can be added to the post using the Upload a File option to the right of the Post Reply button in the new post. Here are some tips:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/putting-images-into-your-forums-posts.87212/
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/putting-images-into-your-forums-posts.87212/
![[Hearth.com] Need help with Harman TL300 disassembly](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/245/245389-084278d3e3b71e97a13bf7460e5d017f.jpg?hash=-Vv4U0PsK0 "[Hearth.com] Need help with Harman TL300 disassembly")
Pretty sure that is already past the gasket. Welding may buy you a little time but that metal has clearly been overheated already.
Had some time today and finished disassembly. To replace everything will cost close to a grand. Some parts are still OK but since it's all apart might as well do it right. Now to decide replace or renew. Dropped a damn hinge pin, think I can find it? Noooooooooo
I hate when that happens. It may have rolled further away than thought. Try using a strong magnet all around the area to pick it up.
Similar threads
