Need I be concerned?

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Possumguts

New Member
Feb 23, 2009
11
Western NY
New stove installed in front of an existing fireplace, which vents into the existing masonary chimney which has a full reline (Stainless steel liner). My house is 100 years old and the existing brick chimney I am told was in good shape, but I wanted a full liner for safety reasons. In the bedroom, one floor above the stove, I can feel that the drywall is warm where it is attached to the chimney. I believe that the original plaster was adhered directly to the brick chimney when the house was built. I put new drywall over this plaster. The wall is not real hot, just warm to the touch, perhaps 100-110 degrees when the stove is running. Is there anyway for this plaster & drywall to ignite. Heat from inside the liner has to penetrate the clay flue tiles and brick in order to do this. I would just like to know if this is normal or something I should be concerned about.
 
I wouldn't be worried about the plaster and drywall, but I would be worried that there may also be wood framing somewhere that is also touching the chimney. I would investigate the masonry chimney clearances from top to bottom as best that you can. In the attic where the masonry chimney exits the last floor ceiling you should be able to see what the framing clearances are there and that will at least be a clue as to what the clearance are in places that you can't see. Is the SS liner insulated?
 
Possumguts said:
New stove installed in front of an existing fireplace, which vents into the existing masonary chimney which has a full reline (Stainless steel liner). My house is 100 years old and the existing brick chimney I am told was in good shape, but I wanted a full liner for safety reasons. In the bedroom, one floor above the stove, I can feel that the drywall is warm where it is attached to the chimney. I believe that the original plaster was adhered directly to the brick chimney when the house was built. I put new drywall over this plaster. The wall is not real hot, just warm to the touch, perhaps 100-110 degrees when the stove is running. Is there anyway for this plaster & drywall to ignite. Heat from inside the liner has to penetrate the clay flue tiles and brick in order to do this. I would just like to know if this is normal or something I should be concerned about.

I'm not an expert so i will just share my experience. My wood stove was in the basement and connected to a hugh cement and brick chimney with two fireplaces. The fire place (on the second floor) above the basement wood stove was warm (90+ degrees) even though it had a separate flu. The heat from the wood stove permeated the cement block wall and would keep the garage from freezing If the liner extends to the top of the chimney it should be safe.
Spark arrestors are required where I live, if you have one be sure to clean it often as it will hold heat in the chimney. The shop where I purchased my stove told me to remove the spark arrestor, I did and no longer need to climb up there every other day to clean it.
Hope more knowledge comes your way concerning this issue.
 
When I moved into my house I gutted the master bedroom on the second floor and insulated the exterior walls and sheetrocked. I left the brick chimney exposed because we liked the way it looked. With a similar setup to yours I find that the chimney functions as a radiator in the bedroom and keeps the room warm while the fire is going. It does not get as hot as the hot water pipes for the radiators but it does heat the room. Gotta' say, if I can put my hand on it then it isn't going to start a fire.
 
TFDChief, I don't think the liner is insulated, and in the attic both the floorboards and the roof deck make contact with the brick, all the way around the house interior. So there is no clearance from the brick.
 
Why not do a pour in vermiculite insulation around the liner. Not only will it keep any wood framing cooler....... it'll also make the chimney draft better.
 
Possumguts said:
TFDChief, I don't think the liner is insulated, and in the attic both the floorboards and the roof deck make contact with the brick, all the way around the house interior. So there is no clearance from the brick.
Possumguts, It is probably not a problem under normal burn surcomstances. The problem is, if God forbid, you had a flue fire, the temps can triple....then it might be a problem. I would insulate the SS liner if you can.
 
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