I hear ya my first experience with auto tuned saws was on a husky ( jonsered) product and now a Stihl same as yours I'll never go back to a manual tune saw. My auto tuned saws always seem to put out just a tad more power and scream just a tad more than my older saws
New Big Saw
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I hear ya my first experience with auto tuned saws was on a husky ( jonsered) product and now a Stihl same as yours I'll never go back to a manual tune saw. My auto tuned saws always seem to put out just a tad more power and scream just a tad more than my older saws
You must be strong like hulk hogan or some other famous muscle dude ! I'm fairly strong still in good shape but if I had to run my big saws all day on the job I'd be whooped.
I run my ported 50cc jonsered probably 80 percent of my work day. In 18 inch wood ( again 80 percent of what I cut) it's really close if not equal to my big saws in performance without wearing me out.
heavy hammer
Minister of Fire
I only have a 660 and an 880. The 660 is my every day cutter I usually run the 25 inch bar on it. I have a 36 inch bar for it, but if I need more saw I pull out the 880. I love my 660 easy to run all day plenty of power. When I run the 880 with a 36 inch bar all day your back feels it a little, but worth it for cutting through big wood with no issue. I think you will love the 661 great saw, a work horse!
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Ashful
Minister of Fire
Not really. I'm fit for one with a desk job, but only 175 lb. and 5'-11". I'm only lifting the saw between cuts, the rest of the time the weight and power of the saw is helping me work less.
I find cutting with my 63cc saw (Stihl 036 Pro) is much more work than the 85cc saw in anything larger than maybe 20", because it just doesn't have enough power to get thru the cut as quickly, and requires more fiddling to keep the chain spinning at top speed in the cut. I got rid of my 50cc saw, for the same reason. I watch guys with little 50cc saws work for minutes at a cut that would be made in seconds with the 85cc saw. You might want to give it a try!
FWIW, I don't use the 064 for limbing, just felling and bucking. I have a T435 that's used for limbing and other light work.
I respect your opinion but for me it's opposite. I work labor all week in tree service. Been doing it on and off for years but this season I seem to have gotten roped into it more that I wanted to at my age ( mid 40s) because my usual way of making a living took a dump.
Anyways My recently acquired Stihl 661 collects dust most days and I'm still wondering why I bought it. Back in my 20s I used to run my Stihl 056 which I still have and I would run it the majority of my work day, even to limb tops, but looking back I don't know how I did it. I'm faster and more efficient in my 40s with my 50cc just because I'm not fatigued. Getting old sucks. My Jonsered 2172 gets about 20 percent use.
I rely on my 50cc saw almost exclusively. I've got a Jonsered 2252 that I had ported ( because I use a small saw so much I wanted to make it as strong as possible) and at around 10 lbs is hard to beat in wood 20 inches or less. I get up in a bucket once in awhile and the 50cc is easy to handle when the top handle saw is too small. I've used my 70cc saws at heights before and it just plain sucks.
But if your ground cutting logs and don't have to deal with limbing and over head cutting, just bucking logs, ya I completely see your point. In that case give me the most horsepower in most cases.
Btw the 661 is a hell of a saw. I just never encounter wood big enough to use it. If I'm cutting a cotton wood which seems to be 1 or 2 a month those around here can be up to 4 to 5 feet in diameter at the base, I'll use it though.
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mass_burner
Minister of Fire
Jon1270
Minister of Fire
It will fit pretty much any saw. Those milling attachments just clamp to the bar, so they're not brand-specific.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Good points, esp. your last one. I am on the ground bucking logs, not in a bucket or climbing a tree. My process is simple:
1. Clear around tree and drop it with 064.
2. Mark off 17" lengths with measuring stick and T435 top handle saw.
3. Buck trunk on closest mark in lengths appropriate for skidding (8' - 16', depending on diameter). Leave tree top behind to return to nature, fertilize the next generation.
4. Skid logs out of woods to staging area with Ford 3000 and choker chain.
5. Buck to 17" lengths with 064.
6. Roll into trailer, haul home.
7. Wonder why I bothered bringing my 63cc saw, again.
I don't think anyone here was talking about pruning trees for a tree service, woodhog. We're making firewood, the fastest way practical on a homeowner scale.
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In regards to the milling thing, and using the 661, I didn't think of this earlier but wondering if there's a way to richen up the air/fuel ratio for milling despite the Mtronic ? I'm guessing no ? I don't mill wood personally but if I did I'm thinking id run my premix a tad heavier on oil and want the saw to run air/fuel ratio a little rich just because milling is harder on a saw.
With the Mtronic it's probably running as lean as it can without actually causing power loss or being dangerous to cause it to burn up. It's the only concern I've ever had when running my auto tune saw some days it seems almost too lean to be safe for the saw but it's never let me down.
But for the milling crowd I wonder if an adjustable carb is better in this case?
Just wondering.
Ashful.....I hear you and agree on the making firewood homeowner thing you mentioned. I too burn and heat with wood I'm on the same page as you. I use my 70cc saw a fair amount when I have a load of logs sitting in the yard to be bucked up. As for your 60cc saw it's still nice to have a back up rescue saw if you get your other pinched or just incase. I once traveled an hours drive to friends mothers house to cut up a downed tree and my saw wouldn't start. Days like that you are glad you have your back up saw with you I suppose.
With the Mtronic it's probably running as lean as it can without actually causing power loss or being dangerous to cause it to burn up. It's the only concern I've ever had when running my auto tune saw some days it seems almost too lean to be safe for the saw but it's never let me down.
But for the milling crowd I wonder if an adjustable carb is better in this case?
Just wondering.
Ashful.....I hear you and agree on the making firewood homeowner thing you mentioned. I too burn and heat with wood I'm on the same page as you. I use my 70cc saw a fair amount when I have a load of logs sitting in the yard to be bucked up. As for your 60cc saw it's still nice to have a back up rescue saw if you get your other pinched or just incase. I once traveled an hours drive to friends mothers house to cut up a downed tree and my saw wouldn't start. Days like that you are glad you have your back up saw with you I suppose.
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Yes they make lots of different ones for different length bars. This one will fit a 36" bar maximum but can be adjusted down from there. It can be powered by any power head regardless of brand. I will say that I am just getting started milling with it but the piece of advice that I got over and over in the forums was mill with the biggest saw you can. I now understand why. If your interested check out granbergs website for the complete line up. I purchased mine through forestrysuppliers.com because they had them in stock. A lot of places that sell them were on an 8 week back order.
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heavy hammer
Minister of Fire
I like the saw. Everyone has there personal preference for what they like to run, you just need to find what works for you. It's a good saw so if you don't end up liking it you can always sell it. But for now enjoy.
7acres
Minister of Fire
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Yep, and that's why I bring it. I was half kidding in my other post. While, I don't find the 036 very useful with an 064 in the arsenal, I keep it as a back-up for when the big saw pinches or fails.
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Jazzberry
Minister of Fire
Ashful I feel the same as you. Since I got my 064 the 360 doesn't get used at all. I go from my 026 to my 064. Think I will sell the 360 this fall and try to score a 200 rear handle for a trim saw. I should add the 360 is a great saw and probably all I really need. But theres a huge difference with the 064.
Edit 08/11/16 Just put the MS 360 Pro away after cutting a cord or so and it aint going nowheres. Forgot how cool the 360 was.
Edit 08/11/16 Just put the MS 360 Pro away after cutting a cord or so and it aint going nowheres. Forgot how cool the 360 was.
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The 200 is a great climbing saw/ top handle saw how soon you looking ? I've got one I use occasionally when I get in the bucket , love it. My buddy has a couple in his business fleet for his tree service I know at least 1 is going to be replaced at the end of the season for a new saw I'm guessing around $350 but it's very heavily used. But gets used every day and runs great. If your interested I can ask him if he wants to sell it early and would be willing to ship it ?
Edit..... I just saw you said the rear handle version I was thinking top handle 200 which is a pretty well known climbing saw never mind sorry
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Jazzberry
Minister of Fire
Ya rear handle. I have bought and sold several 020T / 200T top handles and it is by far is Stihls coolest saw to play with. I make so much profit off of them I can't keep one around. That and I have a son that worries me when he's using them. I figure if I could get a rear handle he won't one hand everything.
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SCOTT S.
Burning Hunk
My personal experience here, I had an 460 for years and found a 661 for a very good price. More power what's to think about right. Well I sold the 460 and just before I went to pick up the 661 a buddy who owns both said let's cut side buy side with 25" bars on each in a oak roughly 22" they were side buy side no discernible difference since a 25" bar is all I will ever need I ended up back at a 461. If I needed a bigger bar my choice would have been different. To me the weight savings and no difference in time to cut a stick, it was a no brainier.
Scott S I understand what your saying.
I added a 661 to my work bench a few months back. It pulls very long bars better than any saw I've ever owned. Including my Stihl 056 that I've owned for more years than I care to remember. I didn't think I'd ever own another saw that powerful until I came across a great deal on a 661. My 056 is bigger and heavier, and lower reving. It's also pretty darn strong but it won't match my 661.
But I've got a Jonsered 2166/2172 ( 70cc pro saw) and I usually keep a 24 inch bar on it. When I run a 24/25 on the 661 and compared to the Johny 2172 with 24inch inch buried in oak it's about dead equal. Neither saw really outcuts the other.
I keep my 661 around for those occasional cotton woods that are close to 60 inches in diameter. I'm a saw geek that's my excuse for owning the 661 cause honestly I probably don't need it. It really is probably a west coast felling saw and logging saw not a mid west firewood saw but it's still nice to own it. In that situation my 661 stomps on my 2172 and would equally put to shame any 70 to 75cc saw
But 95 percent of what I cut is easily handled with a 24 inch or much less smaller bar. So my 661 gets very little use.
And honestly my ported and muffler modded 50cc a Jonsered with 18 inch .325 bar and chain buried in say 18 to 20 inch hard wood can no doubt keep up with both my 2172 and 661. At 10.5 lbs it gets used almost exclusively these days cause most everything I cut lately is small or medium trees
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After spending a few months using this 661 I agree with most of what you guys have said. The 661 really doesn't go to work for you until you put at least a 3 foot bar on it. When you strap a 36" bar on it and bury it in solid hard wood you definitely understand where your money went. In smaller wood with smaller bars, say 18" I really can't see any advantage over a 440. I don't use any ported saws, but to say that any stock 50cc saw with any size bar in any size wood would keep up with the 661 might be a bit of a stretch. My 261 or 026 with 16" bars on them won't compete with my 661 with a 20 inch hardnose in 10" wood. In smaller stuff though I definitely pick up the 261 or the 440, I would rather use the lighter saw than save a few seconds per cut.
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Ashful
Minister of Fire
I think you guys running 25" bars just need to move to a place with real trees! Then you'll have justification for those 661's. [emoji12]
I keep a 28" bar on my 064, and find myself having to work both sides of most trees I take down. They're oak, not cottonwood!
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I keep a 28" bar on my 064, and find myself having to work both sides of most trees I take down. They're oak, not cottonwood!
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I keep a 3' bar on my 661, it's mostly used for the 10 or so oaks a year I get into that require something that size.
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I know it seems hard to believe I'm talking small wood 12 to 18 inch oak rounds honestly my 661 is no faster cutting cookies or blocking logs that are 12 inches around than my ported 50cc. If it's faster we are talking a couple seconds not enough that I generally notice. In bigger wood obviously much different story.
Never done timed cuts or anything just gut impressions. My 50cc was ported and muffler modded and compression was bumped up, and it replaced a Stihl 260 and ( no timed cuts like I said) but I'd swear it's twice as fast in hard wood as my old 260 was. Again just impressions nothing scientific. Obviously probably not twice as fast but sometimes I got that impression.
That said I'll be keeping my 661 around. It will last forever cause it gets limited use. Plus it's the only saw I have that can pull bars over 28 inches without breaking a sweat
Jazzberry
Minister of Fire
The four year drought and a huge bark beetle invasion here in CA has killed millions of Pine and Fir trees. Felling crews all over the place on the government nickel. I check on their saws every time I see em at the store or restaurant etc. The felling crews are almost exclusively using 460s with one 660 in their crew cab trucks. Big blades on the 660s maybe 36" and looks like 25 to 28 on the 460s. Skip tooth blades and no small saws at all.
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