New Drolet Install / Pipe Question

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Reming870

New Member
Nov 18, 2022
17
01435
Just ordered a new Drolet Escape 1800 with legs. Huge upgrade from the Fisher Mama Bear in place now!

The current stove is installed with single wall 6 inch pipe adapted to double wall and I am converting to all double wall.

Question 1. Can I cut a length of double wall and attach it to the Drolet directly or do I need to convert with adapator for single to double wall with a riser piece out of the stove? If so, how do I attach it to the stove properly?

Question 2. Can I put a 30 degree right out of the stove or is a riser still needed before transitioning?

Reasoning for the questions is that there is currently a double wall system in place above the ceiling and through the roof that I do not want to change elevations of. The Drolet IOM doesn't get into connection types for the outlet.

Thanks!
 
There is a big difference between double-wall connector or stovepipe and double-wall chimney pipe. DW stovepipe has an air layer between the inner and outer pipe. Class A chimney pipe has a 1" packed insulation later between the inner and outer pipe.

What you are looking for is double-wall stovepipe to connect the stove to the ceiling support box, correct? If so, you order up the correct length(s) of stovepipe to make up the distance with one of the sections of stovepipe being what is called a telescoping pipe that is adjustable in length. There is no cutting involved.

Matching the stovepipe brand to the chimney pipe brand will make this job easier. Do you know what brand of chimney pipe is installed? Pictures are always welcome.
 
It is Class A Supervent system. I want to take the Class A to the stove. I have to 30 degree offset to get the alignment correct to the current pipe. Pic is the previous owners install. Lots wrong here and I want it corrected when the new stove comes in. I can align the centers of the new Drolet to the Class A drop with a 30 degree offset, but due to height I need to keep the offset below the ceiling. I pulled the ceiling down to see if the offset would fit in the attic space and it cannot.

I think I have to convert the Class A to single wall and have a short single wall piece above the stove to the Class A adaptor.

I was hoping I could find a way to cut a piece of Class A and attach to the stove directly. I think that would look a lot better than a single wall adaptor piece and single wall pipe.

[Hearth.com] New Drolet Install / Pipe Question
 
Take double-wall stovepipe to the stove. There is nothing gained by taking chimney pipe to the stove and it's a lot more expensive and more hassle. Especially if there is an offset.

That said, it has been done. The trick is connecting the stove.
 
There is not enough clearance for single wall to the sheetrock. It is cheaper for me to keep Class A in the offset over rebuilding the walls.

Drolet wants 19.75 inches clearance to the outlet if single wall. 16.5 inches if double wall. Class A I believe is 2 inches.
 
There is not enough clearance for single wall to the sheetrock. It is cheaper for me to keep Class A in the offset over rebuilding the walls.

Drolet wants 19.75 inches clearance to the outlet if single wall. 16.5 inches if double wall. Class A I believe is 2 inches.
Double wall stovepipe has a 6" clearance. Go by clearance "C" in the chart. You can not reduce the corner clearance "C" by using chimney pipe.
 
An offset may be necessary if there isn't 7" from the corner of the Escape 1800 to the wall.
 
I will need the offset. This brings me back to keeping this Class A all the way to the stove and how to connect it to the stove.
 
I will need the offset. This brings me back to keeping this Class A all the way to the stove and how to connect it to the stove.
Running class a won't reduce the stove clearance though run double wall pipe with a set of 45s or 30s to get the offset to get stove clearance
 
Yes, do the offset with double-wall stovepipe instead.
 
It looks like there is a stove pipe adapter already on the chimney pipe. Is that correct? If so, just remove the single-wall and replace it with double-wall stovepipe. The current adapter (Supervent part JM6ASE?) should be crimped on the end which will insert directly into the inner liner of the double-wall stovepipe. At that point, you can use Selkirk DSP double-wall stovepipe or another brand like DuraVent DVL.

As far as the stove connection, I would ask on the forum what connects well to the Escape 1800, There are lots of folks with this stove. Some double-wall stove pipe connects directly to the stove with a good fit and no adapter. Our double-wall is DVL and there is no adapter needed to connect to our stove.
 
I have never hooked up a drolet with double wall so I don't know what combination works best. But that is what the pipe is designed for. Usually a stove top adapter is what you use. But sometimes just the pipe works best without an adapter
 
I have the DROLET Escape 1500. I used Selkirk stove pipe.
I connect a 24" double wall pipe (DSP6P24-1) directly to the stove. Very nice tight fit. 20" above the stove I drilled a 1/4 hole through all layers for my temperature probe. This is done on the hidden side of the pipe.
On top of that I have a Damper Assembly (DSP6DK-1).
On top of that I have a 12-18 inch double wall telescoping pipe (DSP6AL-1)
On top of that I have a Universal Chimney Adapter (DSP6CA).

At one time I had single wall pipe. I had to add the Universal Chimney Adapter to connect to the chimney pipe setup when I switched to double wall.


Is that Class A chimney pipe that has been painted black that extends down into the living area? I remember my Class A fitting into some sort of holder that held all the weight of the Class A chimney pipe. I thought the holder was nailed to the wood frame that boxed the chimney pipe. What holds your Class A pipe?
 
I have the DROLET Escape 1500. I used Selkirk stove pipe.
I connect a 24" double wall pipe (DSP6P24-1) directly to the stove. Very nice tight fit. 20" above the stove I drilled a 1/4 hole through all layers for my temperature probe. This is done on the hidden side of the pipe.
On top of that I have a Damper Assembly (DSP6DK-1).
On top of that I have a 12-18 inch double wall telescoping pipe (DSP6AL-1)
On top of that I have a Universal Chimney Adapter (DSP6CA).

At one time I had single wall pipe. I had to add the Universal Chimney Adapter to connect to the chimney pipe setup when I switched to double wall.


Is that Class A chimney pipe that has been painted black that extends down into the living area? I remember my Class A fitting into some sort of holder that held all the weight of the Class A chimney pipe. I thought the holder was nailed to the wood frame that boxed the chimney pipe. What holds your Class A pipe?
Yes it’s Class A and there is a bracket just above the ceiling hole holding it up. Yes it’s painted black. I’m going to convert to double wall to the stove.

Can you show a pic of the stove connection?

Is a damper necessary?
 
Yes it’s Class A and there is a bracket just above the ceiling hole holding it up. Yes it’s painted black. I’m going to convert to double wall to the stove.

Can you show a pic of the stove connection?

Is a damper necessary?
Here is a photo of the double wall stove pipe connected to the stove. Not much to see as the Airmate (deflector on top of stove) covers most of it. As I stated it is a nice tight fit. The crimped end of the outer black pipe points up. The crimped end of the inner pipe points down and the crimp fits inside the stove collar.

Also attached is a photo of my ceiling connection. The lowest Selkirk Supervent Class A chimney section connects to a Selkirk Supervent Stove Pipe Adapter. It is a twist and lock connection. (This is not visible in the photo. ) The Stove Pipe Adapter slides through and rests in the Ceiling Support. The Ceiling Support is securely fastened to the framework surrounding the chimney opening. The Stove Pipe Adapter's crimped end connects to the Universal Chimney Adapter which accepts the double wall stove pipe.
Others here can chime in on the Class A chimney pipe being supported in a manner other than from the bottom. Selkrik does not mention anything regarding that method in their Instructions, Warranty and Maintenance Guide that came with my purchases.

I can not tell you whether a damper is necessary in your installation. For me, yes, very necessary.

[Hearth.com] New Drolet Install / Pipe Question [Hearth.com] New Drolet Install / Pipe Question