New insert install: order of operations? Liner: how far?

[SeanG]

Hi all,

Thanks to everyone here for sharing and posting pics of their installs. It has helped me tremendously. My new CW2900i is sitting in the garage awaiting install this weekend. I've read tons of install posts, watched many different liner install how to videos and read the block off plate instructions a few times over. However, I still have a couple of questions that I can't find answers to and I want to review one last time that I'm am doing everything in the right order.

The chimney has been swept, inspected and the damper has been cut out.

So here is my plan:

1. Clean fireplace firebox and smoke shelf one last time prior to install.
2. Create template for block off plate.
   
3. Fabricate block off plate.
   
4. Insulate SS liner.
5. Drop SS liner down flue.
6. Attach liner to stove to ensure proper length.
7. Slide stove out of fireplace enough to install Roxul and block off plate.
8. Place Roxul above damper area around liner.
9. Install block off plate. Seal as necessary.
10. Slide insert back into firebox .
11. Trim liner excess.
12. Install liner top plate and seal.
13. Install chimney cap.
14. Connect stove.
15. Light fire.
16. Drink whiskey.
17. Bask in warmth and glow of fire and whiskey.

Does that sound right to y'all?

The only thing I can't suss out is how do I slide a 400 stove back and forth multiple times when testing connection the liner, installing block off plate and then connecting liner finally?

I think I saw a video of a Blaze King Princess install where the installer had think strips of metal to slide the Princess in and out. What other tips can y'all think of to make this easier on my back?

Lastly, my hearth is not level. What does one use to level a 400 lb. piece of steel?

Thanks,

Sean

 

[Benchwrench]

I found installing pipe and stove is a dance between the two.
You may find benefit using a helper.

click below to see my install for your reference.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/a-square-peg-in-a-round-hole.71287/page-3#post-1008928

 

[SeanG]

I found installing pipe and stove is a dance between the two.
You may find benefit using a helper.

click below to see my install for your reference.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/a-square-peg-in-a-round-hole.71287/page-3#post-1008928

Thanks Bench. That really helps. I'm definitely going to use the sheet metal strips and base like you did. Great idea.

How did you know where to truncate the liner? Did you slide the stove in once to test the length and connection then slide it out to secure it on the roof then slide it back in for the final install?

Thanks,

Sean

 

[mellow]

Lastly, my hearth is not level. What does one use to level a 400 lb. piece of steel?

The insert should have leveling bolts on the sides/back, if no bolts you could just shim it with something non-combustible. I have used stainless steel nuts in the past.

 

[SeanG]

The insert should have leveling bolts on the sides/back, if no bolts you could just shim it with something non-combustible. I have used stainless steel nuts in the past.

Ah ha! That's what those two nuts were. They are just welded on. I thought they were to secure the insert to the pallet. Rookie oversight.

Thanks Mello! I'll add some bolts to the shopping list.

 

[kennyp2339]

I'm excited for you! When I helped my dad and my friend we used a broken broom handle to act as a roller to get the stoves in and out of the fireplace.
I would install the insulated flue first, position the stove in to get proper measurement and center, measure then build the block off plate, dry fit it, mark pilot holes to screw plates in, re install the stove and connect chimney, go to top of roof, adjust chimney trim as necessary and install the cap. Make fire, wait 10 min then drink whiskey.

 

[SeanG]

I'm excited for you! When I helped my dad and my friend we used a broken broom handle to act as a roller to get the stoves in and out of the fireplace.
I would install the insulated flue first, position the stove in to get proper measurement and center, measure then build the block off plate, dry fit it, mark pilot holes to screw plates in, re install the stove and connect chimney, go to top of roof, adjust chimney trim as necessary and install the cap. Make fire, wait 10 min then drink whiskey.

Thank you Kenny! Great tips. I'm excited too. I will use try the broom technique if the sheet metal does not reduce the friction enough. I think I'm going to have to move the stove twice since I'd prefer to use the vertical appliance connector vs. using the 30 degree offset elbow connector.

OK, the plan is coming together!

 

[KpR]

Looks like a great plan! For the in-n-out maneuvering, I used an idea I came across on here somewhere of having about four 1 ft. sections of 3/4" PVC as rollers, spaced out under the insert. Similar to kennyp's broom handle idea. Worked very well on a solo install.

What whisky do you have lined up?
Good luck.

 

[Benchwrench]

I first calculated overall chimney height first before I purchased because it was rigid pipe.
your stove should slide on the sheet metal without too much effort.
The firebox / final resting place should be leveled out first.
If Your liner install is all flex, once the chase cover is set you can then cut the excess liner at the proper height then install the cap.
Since I used rigid, there was more calculations to factor in.

 

[Benchwrench]

It's always a good idea to do a dry run with the stove in place.
(before liner install)
This way you can level it out and make sure it fits where you need it to be.

 

[SeanG]

Looks like a great plan! For the in-n-out maneuvering, I used an idea I came across on here somewhere of having about four 1 ft. sections of 3/4" PVC as rollers, spaced out under the insert. Similar to kennyp's broom handle idea. Worked very well on a solo install.

What whisky do you have lined up?
Good luck.

Thanks KpR. Not buying anything special and all I've got at the moment is half a bottle of 18 y/o Jamison. However, I think that should do nicely. I do have an unopened bottle of Elmer T. Lee but since I won't be able to get anymore until April I am not going to pull the cork. Otherwise it would disappear.

I'll add 4 ft. of PVC to the list as well.