PapaDave, You've been around here for six years, I've been around here for 6 days and you think you have a learning curve to go through! Did learn something today on the 30, seemed I remembered BrotherBart telling someone to quit worrying about the "secondary burn" and just run the stove like you ought too. So when I started the fire this morning I pulled the air control all the way out and cracked the door like your supposed too and got the fire roaring, but this time I didn't push in the air control back in, instead just let the fire keep building up, watching the flue and the stove top temps. When the temps got to 600 on the flue and 700 on the stove top I throttled her down. That made all the difference in how fast the shop warmed up. If I did wrong, somebody tell me please.Should be about 2 more months Woody.
I should learn something in that time.
Single wall up eight or nine feet, then into triple wall and out the building. I was using a IR gun.It comes with the hair dryer, but the other one is $189.
I think I'll see how that works.
It works okay, but I think the bigger one would be better. I thought if you could pay the difference between the two, something like $50, it would make sense.
Charlie, is that probed doublewall pipe temp?
Whoa! Surface temperatures of 600 on single wall? Dude, too hot. Start closing that draft at pipe temps of 400. 500 should be redline on pipe temp. 700 is fine for stove temps at the hottest point which for me is in front of the flue just above the step top.Single wall up eight or nine feet, then into triple wall and out the building. I was using a IR gun.
Thanks. I'll run it again this morning and stay on top of things more carefully. Sure was putting out some heat though!Whoa! Surface temperatures of 600 on single wall? Dude, too hot. Start closing that draft at pipe temps of 400. 500 should be redline on pipe temp. 700 is fine for stove temps at the hottest point which for me is in front of the flue just above the step top.
There's the problem. 500 outside temperature corresponds to a 1000 degree interior temperature. The skin of that pipe is somewhere between. Surface temps are not the best way to measure exhaust gas temps but on single wall it's about the only way to go.Thanks. I'll run it again this morning and stay on top of things more carefully. Sure was putting out some heat though!
No it wasn't glowing, glow doesn't start until 1,100 degree F.
Osage,Hello came across this thread and was curious about how many sqft. The englander was rated for heating. We have been discussing getting an EPA stove to replace the one we have now . And it fits our budget pretty good also. Sounds like a sweet little stove
We don't have any windows that could have been opened, but our lungs filtered out the haze in no time. You opened the air control fully first, before opening the door?
It's just because you aren't running the stove in cycles yet and trying to add to a small fire that's actively burning yet not hot enough for really strong draw on the chimney.Yep, opened the air, then the door....slowly.
Rather than jack around with rod and gasket rope, just throw one welding rod on the outside edge of each baffle right on top of the tubes between the baffle edge and the secondary manifold. This takes up the gap just fine and looks OEM. Don't eliminate all gaps. The stove and/or the baffles expand and contract with heat and you need some space for this. Gaps when cold will be gone when the stove is hot.Thanks pen, that's good info.
I need to get the rod and 1/4" gasket for the baffle trick.
Mine came with the back of the baffle goobered with some black sealant. Don't know how long that'll last.
Is the handle suppose to be sloppy?
What I mean is that when the door is open, the handle flops a little going through the door. Snug once the door is closed, but I wonder about a potential for air infiltration.
Should have put in doublewall 4 winters ago. No need for sealant on this stuff, since it fits like a glove.
The brick behind this pipe is only about 100°, while the old 1x pipe kept the wall at least 150-160 on a good burn.
I now see why the R value is so high for the hearth too. It's toasty underneath the stove.
Seriously, I may toast my bread in the morning under there.
ETA: I'm accustomed to adding a couple-3 splits into the Ashley during the day w/o any smoke issue after I added another few feet of pipe.
New stove, new methods. I'll get it.
The overnight loading didn't seem to cause any problem, but the temp has dropped to about 28° and only very minor flame from the previous load @ 6:00 p.m.