New Pacific Energy NEO 2.5

[Dodgethis]

Hi,

This is my first post on the forum. I have been reading the forum for a while. I was shopping for a wood stove insert. End up getting a Pacific Energy Neo 2.5 with a rigid liner from the stove to the top. The chimney is on the exterior wall but inside the house. The insert was installed yesterday and it is great so far except the fire seems to be more active on the right side then it is on the left side of the stove for some reason. The glass is dirty on the left side about 25% of the total glass. But the rest of the glass is still super clean.

My wood is mainly season ash and some maple. The stove pumps lots of heat and I get nice blueish secondary flame for quite a while.

I will try to upload a video of the insert burning if I can find out how.

Regards,

 

[Dodgethis]

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Here the video of the insert. It is not the best since it is during the day, but you get the idea. I try to show the dirty windows on the left side.

This is with the air fully closed.

 

[jeff_t]

Welcome.

I would definitely check out the door gasket. Make sure it is in place properly, then use a dollar bill to make sure it is sealing well. Put the bill in, close the door, and make sure there is resistance when you try to pull it out. It doesn't have to be super tight to the point that you will tear it, but it shouldn't pull out easily.

How dry is your wood? It appears to be burning nicely, and since it is dark in that one area, I would lean toward a gasket issue.

A proper picture would be appreciated

 

[Grimlock13]

I have just gotten a NEO 2.5 installed and have the same exact issue. Glass on the left corner gets really dirty and same thing with the active fire on the right.
Did you knock out the plate for inside air in the back?

 

[Dodgethis]

Did not even know there a knock out plate to remove in the back. I had it installed, not sure if they did it but will ask for sure. Is this plate mention anywhere in the installation manual?

If the latch needs adjustment after the dollar test, how do you adjust it? There does not seems to have anything to adjust. Do I pry the latch out?

Thanks,

 

[Grimlock13]

Yes there are actual two plates described in the manual 1 for indoor air and 1 for outdoor air. If you look on the back you'll see the round knockout with a sticker on it. I'll try and take some pics later. From reading the manual i thought it was necessary that either one or the other be removed. Funny how my stove is burning the same exact way.

 

[Hogwildz]

The doors don't come adjusted from the factory, so you will need to check the adjustment with "the dollar bill test".
The dirty glass can be from loading the splits close to the glass if loading the splits north to south. Of from wood that is not dry enough. Or because the door needs adjustment.
Good choice on insert and good choice on liner. I have rigid and love it. Makes for easy sweeping. Did you go with single wall rigid, or insulated double wall. The insulated is da sheet!
Congrats & enjoy!

 

[Grimlock13]

If I may ask how do you go about adjusting the doors?

 

[Dodgethis]

I did the dollar bill test and it is super tight all around except near the latch. It is not super loose but not hard to pull out. The impression on the door gasket is deep all around the door but barely visible near the latch. So the latch probably needs adjustment.

Hogwildz, I used single wall rigid as my massonery chimney is inside the house.

 

[Dodgethis]

Here is a picture of the latch. There does not seems to be anything to adjust.

 

[Dodgethis]

And here is a better picture of the insert with the dirty glass on the left side. As requested by Jeff_T.

 

[Hogwildz]

I did the dollar bill test and it is super tight all around except near the latch. It is not super loose but not hard to pull out. The impression on the door gasket is deep all around the door but barely visible near the latch. So the latch probably needs adjustment.

Hogwildz, I used single wall rigid as my massonery chimney is inside the house.

No, don't tighten it any more. As long as there is some resistance, you're good. Too many make the mistake of wanting the thing too tight, and that prematurely wears the gasket down, and puts unneeded strain on the latch, which wears the cast door prematurely, where the latch pivots against. I know this from my own experience. Don't make that mistake, I already made it for you LOL

Make sure as pointed out, that the knock out was removed. One side black could also be simply the wood was closer to the glass, or the wood on one side was not as dry as the other. Unless this becomes a common issue, then there will be something else to address.

Edit: You latch is different than the rest of the PE lineup, so maybe it does need a little more adjustment. If they are using the high density gasket on that model, you don't need to go real tight.
How hot are you burning?

 

[Dodgethis]

It is around -1C at the moment, so I am not burning too hot but I always make sure the fire is not smoldering and no smoke is coming out of the chimney. I have no way of telling what is the insert temp or flue temp. But the insert generate lots of heat if I give it more air. When the fire is establish, even fully closed the insert is putting out lots of heat. I adjust using less wood for now. But it will get very cold soon here in Montreal.

As for the knock out, the manual only talk about air intake but no knock out. As for inside air, the intake is under the insert:

Combustion Air
Consult local building codes regarding combustion air supply.
Intake or combustion air can be supplied to the Insert in one
of two ways:
1) Outside air supply: Remove the cover from ash clean out
in the existing fi replace. Place a rodent screen in place of
the cover. Install the Insert as described in the "Installation"
section, making sure not to cover the opening of the
air inlet. When the installation is complete, seal the back
surround to fi replace. This will ensure combustion air is
drawn from outside the house and under the unit.
2) Room air supply: The insert can get combustion air from
the front under the fi rebox but it must have adequate air
for combustion provided in the room the unit is installed
in. This may involve providing make up air from outside
the house.

 

[jeff_t]

And here is a better picture of the insert with the dirty glass on the left side. As requested by Jeff_T.

We need a picture of the whole install. Just to look at. I like the stainless surround.

Are there washers under the latch to take out?

I like how the manual says 'unsplit wood is preferred for overnight burns'

 

[CLVTCH]

Just to chime in, I also get dirty glass on the bottom left corner of my stove, and I too get a stronger burn on the right side of the firebox. Must be a design thing as my gasket is well sealed.

 

[Dodgethis]

I will post a picture of the whole install when I am done. I have ripped off the old ceramic but did not installed the new one yet. Just got the insert yesterday.

Are there washers under the latch to take out?

No, there are no washer to take out. But thanks for pointing it out. Did not thought about that.

 

[Dodgethis]

Here's a better HD burn video. We can see the new generation baffle in action:

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[begreen]

Beautiful burn, thanks for posting.

 

[BrotherBart]

Now that is what a wood stove is supposed to do.

 

[Grimlock13]

Regarding the knockout plate it's on page 9 of the manual regarding combustion air. If you simply slide underneath and look at the back there will be a white sticker with brown lettering. See the below stated. I ran my stove hot since yesterday morning and mostly all of the black is gone from the glass. I think I was running it too low.


2. Room air supply - The unit must have adequate air for
combustion provided in the room the unit is installed in.
Remove the cover plate or knockout from the rear of the
ash box enclosure. The stove will now draw its air from
the room through this opening and into the firebox intake.

 

[Dodgethis]

We must have a different version manual / insert. Mine only talk about combustion air at page 14 (I have attached it). There is no mention of cover plate or knockout. You do have a NEO 2.5?

2) Room air supply: The insert can get combustion air from
the front under the firebox but it must have adequate air
for combustion provided in the room the unit is installed
in. This may involve providing make up air from outside
the house.

My glass also seems to become cleaner. At lease 50% of the black is gone and the rest is slowly fading away. I use to have at least 4 inches of black on the left side, but now I have 1 1/2 inch maybe. Maybe there is a break in period. Been using mine for only 2 days

How is your burn time? Last night, I put one 8'' split in the back and one 6'' in the front. I rake all the coal in front before adding the split. Once the the fire was establish, I set the air setting to fully closed. This was at 11pm. This morning at 6h30am, the log in the back was still in one piece glowing red. The fan was still on blowing hot air. I am very please with this result. The insert was far from being packed last night.

 

[Grimlock13]

My fault you have the insert, I have the freestanding stove.

 

[Hogwildz]

Load that thing north to south, and keep the ends of the splits a few inches away from the glass.

 

[Hogwildz]

Troubleshooting
Problem Cause Cure
Excessive Creosote 1) Wood is too wet - Use dry wood(recommended moisture level
<20%)
Buildup
2) Turning down air control - Do not turn down until:
too soon a) there is a good bed of coals
b) the wood is charred
3) Draft too low - Chimney plugged or restricted, check fl ue
- Improper chimney height and/or diameter
- Provide outside air for combustion
- Check draft in chimney and system, alter as
needed.
Glass is Dirty 1) See 1, 2, and 3 above
2) Door Gasket leakage - Replace gasket
- Check door latch

 

[Nickolai]

That insert looks to be burning great!
I don't think it's a knockout plate issue, I'm not sure the insert has one, the Neo 2.5 does have one as I forgot to take it out a couple weeks ago after an install!
And if the insert is anything like the freestanding stove you would never get a burn looking like that with the door closed with the knockout plate still in.