New Saw

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Devin86

Devin86

New Member
May 14, 2013
24
Shinnston, WV
Was at the pawn shop today and picked up a new saw could not figure out what it was as all the badges are gone but pretty sure it is a MS460. Piston looks good have not done a compression check yet needs a new bar and chain a new muffler and replace one long an one short bolt. The chain cover is busted and it is missing one dog so there are a few parts to get but seems to run well. Looks like the chain rubbed a hole in the case below the drive sprocket. Any advice on what replacement muffler or where to find the bolts?
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Jump on ebay and order up a "dual-port" style muffler for it. Absolutely the easiest and most effective bolt on mod for it. Lots of guys there sell "assorted hardware" from a saw they parted out. Also looks like you have the "winter" air filter there, I'd be replacing that with an HD2 element. I am assuming the hole in the case is not affecting anything critical?
 
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The case does not seem to be affecting anything I will look for the muffler and thanks for the advice on the filter I am thinking 24" bar and a alaskan mill to play with. Did I get robbed you think at $220?
 
Devin86 said:
The case does not seem to be affecting anything I will look for the muffler and thanks for the advice on the filter I am thinking 24" bar and a alaskan mill to play with. Did I get robbed you think at $220?
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She's rough but if it runs with the muffler I think you did ok. You can get your money back just selling off the engine parts.

24" is a good one bar plan but these saws haul a 28" like it was born to do it! I have a 28" ES Light on mine and love it.
 
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That def looks like a 460/046 :)

And for that price?? It's a steal.... Your gonna be super happy with it. My 460 is one mean SOB.

As MM said, your gonna want to add the front cover, if not an entire can. The Aftermarket cans or AUS cans have a larger original port, to help further extract more air and heat.
 
without a doubt that is a 460.....the 046 wouldn't have flippy caps on it, no?
I'd be putting a 28" bar on it....especially if you are going to play around with a mill. You already have a smaller saw with a smaller bar, so get a bar that you can have some fun with!!!

BTW, I think you did pretty good at $220.00 for it....yeah, it looks like it was rode hard and put away wet, but with some "this's and that's" it'll be good to go. Definitely do the "dual port" muffler.....that will make it better right away.
 
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seems to keep getting better brake band is broke and does not seem to be oiling for some reason may have bit off more than I can chew lol
 
That drum/rim area looked pretty dark. As if it got really hot. May have burnt the oil worm gear up? The band is an easy fix. Oiler could be also...

Wanna sell it? ;em I'm sure there are more than a few here that would buy it? ;)

Or just ask some questions and take a lot of pics? Wont take much to repair.
 
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Devin86 said:
seems to keep getting better brake band is broke and does not seem to be oiling for some reason may have bit off more than I can chew lol
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Brake band is pretty simple to replace. The oil system is also quite simple. I would make sure the pickup and line are not collapsed or plugged. Once you pull the clutch and oil pump off the oil line is simple to remove from the saw. Compare what you have against a parts breakdown to make sure you're not missing anything. Do not lose the small seal near the out put of the oil pump either.

Make sure you inspect the oil pump drive gear for wear as well. Bit the very first thing I would check would be the plastic drive gear with a square wire arm that sits directly behind the clutch drum. Very common for the tip of the wire to break off and then it no longer engages the clutch drum like it is supposed to. Check out the drum and bearing while you're in there.
 
MasterMech said:
Brake band is pretty simple to replace. The oil system is also quite simple. I would make sure the pickup and line are not collapsed or plugged. Once you pull the clutch and oil pump off the oil line is simple to remove from the saw. Compare what you have against a parts breakdown to make sure you're not missing anything. Do not lose the small seal near the out put of the oil pump either.

Make sure you inspect the oil pump drive gear for wear as well. Bit the very first thing I would check would be the plastic drive gear with a square wire arm that sits directly behind the clutch drum. Very common for the tip of the wire to break off and then it no longer engages the clutch drum like it is supposed to. Check out the drum and bearing while you're in there.
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Also make sure your oiler hole in the bar, as well as the bar rails, are good and clean. Use a utility knife (I use a putty or drywall knife) to clean those rails out good. Stuff gets gunked in there pretty bad and will inhibit oiling....
 
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DexterDay said:
That drum/rim area looked pretty dark. As if it got really hot. May have burnt the oil worm gear up? The band is an easy fix. Oiler could be also...

Wanna sell it? ;em I'm sure there are more than a few here that would buy it? ;)

Or just ask some questions and take a lot of pics? Wont take much to repair.
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Dex, have you asked Craig to change your username to "SawVulture" yet? :p
 
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Scotty Overkill said:
Also make sure your oiler hole in the bar, as well as the bar rails, are good and clean. Use a utility knife (I use a putty or drywall knife) to clean those rails out good. Stuff gets gunked in there pretty bad and will inhibit oiling....
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In the shop, compressed air is the best, if you have it available. Otherwise use whatcha got.
 
Thinking I might send this one and the 028 down the road and look for one in a little better shape I just not sure if I am up to the task on this one lol
 
Made it this far and am 100% certain I can put it back to the point I purchased it. Where do I go from here as far as disassembly ok to hit everything with brake parts cleaner? Also this bearing seems to be missing one and they are all retained but loose normal?
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I don't think that there's much there that will cost , or cause you trouble to repair . You might want to change your clutch springs while your doing things , the one at the lower right looks tweaked . You could check baileys online for a lot of those parts and save a few$$$$ over OEM as none of the things you need a really critical to the running of the saw .
 
Devin86 said:
Made it this far and am 100% certain I can put it back to the point I purchased it. Where do I go from here as far as disassembly ok to hit everything with brake parts cleaner? Also this bearing seems to be missing one and they are all retained but loose normal?
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Unload it now as is if you're going that route. With the damaged case it will not sell as well as even a non running but complete 460.

Otherwise replace the bearing and the clutch springs as they are inexpensive, even OEM parts. Pop the clutch off (it is left hand thread) and you are home free as far as getting to the oiling system. Will make it easier to get everything clean as well.
 
The other side of the hole? Is that just the tank/handle area? If so, then it affects nothing. No need for a pic Devin...

Recoil (pull rope is easy peasy), oiler should be straight forward and fairly cheap, and brake band is easy and cheap (clutch springs also). For less than $80 you could DIY? Have $300 into a $1,000 saw (new of course, but hey, looks aint everything. Function over Form)
 
Brake part cleaner will take the paint off if you leave it on too long.
 
I need the part number 1122 649 5000 o ring for the oil pump any one know where I can find one in stock?
 
Devin86 said:
I need the part number 1122 649 5000 o ring for the oil pump any one know where I can find one in stock?
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Try searching eBay but Stihl parts are tough to get online sometimes. The o ring is nothing special, can be replaced with a standard o-ring available from a hardware store.
 
I guess maybe this was more like a short pc of hose on the back of the oil pump mine was badly broken down.
 
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