New Super 27 assembly problem

[davehedrick]

Hello,

We just purchased a new Pacific Energy Super 27. We did not buy it from a dealer, got a great deal from a freight auction (stove is brand new). We've been burning wood for many, many years. This stove is replacing an Oakleaf by Harman that's two years old. The Super 27 was not assembled inside so we're not a 100% sure that we've gotten it together right (owner's manual doesn't really show assembly well). We're having a problem with draw - there is none. Previously there was no problem with the draw and we literally took out the Oakleaf and installed the Super 27 - nothing but the stove changed. The obvious is right - firebrick, and rails. We're just not sure about the baffle - even though that appears to have only one way to go. There was one piece that we didn't see on the parts list that we're not sure about - it is a piece that is a ninety degree piece with holes in it. Does anyone know where it goes? Is it creating our draw problem? We've removed the room air plug from the back as required, but no change. The only way to get draw is to hold the ash drawer open. As soon as we close the door the beginnings of the fire goes right out. By that I mean just the paper and tiny scraps of wood we can't even begin to put any pieces of wood.

 

[Rock Crusher]

First off, welcome. I have a PE Alderlea T5 Insert and not sure of the similarities with the Super 27. I am going to check now and should be able to get back to you soon. Others will chime in shortly-great group here.

 

[begreen]

Was the flame shield above the baffle properly installed? If not it can block the flue exit. When the baffle was put in, was it lifted up at the rear so that the secondary air feed tube inserted inside it? It should fit flush with the back of the firebox and the retaining pin should fit easily into the hole.

Can you post a picture of the part in question?

 

[Rock Crusher]

Above, Begreen thanks, beat me to it, tough one for Seattle so far.

 

[begreen]

tough one for Seattle so far.

 

[KpR]

Sounds like the boost manifold could be the part in question. It sits right inside the door, on the floor of the stove, with the holes facing the back of the firebox, held in place by the two pins sticking up. If the hole it sits on top of got clogged, I could see this being a problem for primary air intake.

 

[davehedrick]

Hello,

We just purchased a new Pacific Energy Super 27. We did not buy it from a dealer, got a great deal from a freight auction (stove is brand new). We've been burning wood for many, many years. This stove is replacing an Oakleaf by Harman that's two years old. The Super 27 was not assembled inside so we're not a 100% sure that we've gotten it together right (owner's manual doesn't really show assembly well). We're having a problem with draw - there is none. Previously there was no problem with the draw and we literally took out the Oakleaf and installed the Super 27 - nothing but the stove changed. The obvious is right - firebrick, and rails. We're just not sure about the baffle - even though that appears to have only one way to go. There was one piece that we didn't see on the parts list that we're not sure about - it is a piece that is a ninety degree piece with holes in it. Does anyone know where it goes? Is it creating our draw problem? We've removed the room air plug from the back as required, but no change. The only way to get draw is to hold the ash drawer open. As soon as we close the door the beginnings of the fire goes right out. By that I mean just the paper and tiny scraps of wood we can't even begin to put any pieces of wood.

Thanks Everyone!

The part that I was talking about was the boost manifold. We had it in the wrong place and it was apparently blocking the airflow into the stove. We moved it to the correct place now and the stove is working beautifully. Last night with the damper closed all the way, temps in the low 20's we had a toasty warm house especially after we put a fan on the coffee table to help blow the heat around (still have to get a blower for the stove - kind of hoping that we can make the one of the Harman work). The stove held all night with a great coal bed to get the fire going this morning. The test will be tonight with lows predicted to around 6. The only thing is that the coal bed is so deep that we can't get much wood in, but that's a good problem to have I guess. Just one other question. I've noticed that many folks are saying to let the stove get up to 700 degrees (on top) and then cut it back. We've got a stove top thermometer on order (been using a stove pipe thermometer with the Harman) and all of the thermometers that I've been looking at say that anything over 600 or 650 is over firing. So what's the right temperature? Sometimes I think we should have kept our old Sierra (1980) - no worries about the perfectly seasoned wood, temperatures, etc. just chuck the wood in, turn the dampers up for a bit, let the fire catch, turn them back, and done.

Again thanks. We've been lurking around for awhile and all of the threads about the Super 27 is what led us to this stove. Should have gotten this instead of the Harman two years ago. The Oakleaf turned out to be a pretty negative experience.

 

[KpR]

Great to hear.
For the coal bed, at the end of a burn cycle, try raking the coals toward the front of the stove and opening the air all the way to burn them down a bit before reloading. This will both allow more room for wood and prevent a new load from heating up too fast. This thread has some great pointers: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/loading-question.132198/#post-1777167

For the thermometer, where are you taking the temps from--on the stove, on the stove pipe?

 

[Jags]

Numbers or ranges on thermos are pretty generic. Go by the numbers, not the words. Keep that super 27 south of 750F and you should be fine. 700F for a peak reading (allowing to settle in at a bit lower temps) ain't gonna hurt that thing one bit. But as a side note: I often find that my stack temp is rising at a greater rate especially during a start up. I read both temps as the stack can start to reach the upper limits of my comfort zone faster than the stove does requiring primary air adjustments.

 

[begreen]

Yes, this year I have very dry wood and I have to pay close attention to the stack temps, not the stove top temps. If I don't pay attention and have the air open too much the stack can go from 600F to 1000F (probe temp) in just a few minutes, while the stove top is still climbing to maybe 400F (cold start). This morning I did an experiment and started closing down the air to 50% at 500F stack temp (probe). About 5 minutes later I turned it down to 25% open. Then another 10 minutes later down mostly closed. The stove top warmed up slower but the stack never went over 600F. Timing is important! Eventually the stove top has reached 650F.

It's been quite mild here for the past few days so this was on this morning's cold start. Normally I would bring the stove up to temperature faster, but the heat pump had already brought the house up to 67F, so I decided to experiment. This will be good knowledge for reloads, though truth be told, most loads are a unique combination of wood densities (heart wood vs outer growth), air gaps, loading method, user control, draft, etc.. It's part of what makes wood burning an art and enjoyable.