New T-stat worked, now no augur Quadrafire 1200-I

[Homowner]

Big help johneh, I understand prurple wires indicate SD #1, while SD #2 is connected to yellow wires.

Here's a pic of my Quadrafire 1200-I wiring for these are mounted and I am thinking that it probably doen't matter if they are the reverse location of yours or the normal mount, so long as the wires represent the correct SD.

So just know that the yellow wires on at the top though in the second image I tried to capture a number on the SD'd but this is the best I could get after several tries.

This is why I asked if each SD shows a part number so I can be sure when ordering. Because I cannot see any numbers on these two SD's. Only the lettering on the yellow wire SD "TP" if you know what that means?

By the way the blower which blows the air up the venting stainless steel chimney piping still works. Is that what you mean by convection blower?

 

[johneh]

Mountain View Hearth Products
Snap dics # 1 - 812-5060 Cost 13$
Snap Dics #2 - SRV230-0900 Cost 39$
Have you checked the manual reset Snap Dics # 3?

 

[ARC]

You said no RED LIGHT on the control board?
If so, try jumping out the stat. If there is no red light,
So, no call for heat then nothing else will work

I was not accurate. The red call light that is, for pellets when the temp reached 200°, is what I was referring to

Sorry I do not understand does the call light come on or not? Red call light has nothing to do with pellet temp. See video 1:54 to 2:10.

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[Homowner]

No call light.

Thanks for the part #'s johneh. I'll order them right away to get before Christmas company

Yes johneh I have reset the #3 SD and it did pop so I believe it to be back to normal position

 

[ARC]

No call light.

With no call light none of the other components will have electricity. Need to figure out why no call light

ecobee light

Explain how you installed ecobee light, it needs 24v power source?

Do you have original thermostat? Did you try re installing it? Use a short piece of wire not what you have going to the ecobee.

Try jumping the thermostat. Unhook thermostat wires from stove add a jumper,(short piece of wire) from the two terminals on the stoves thermostat block.

 

[Homowner]

Ecobee lite installation was done as a boiler, 2 wire only and using wall transformer for power. If I can locate the instructions I will include but today is a busy one, so as is this week. I will do my best to find the instructions so perhaps next week

As for the no call (red) light, I was under the impression that the #2 SD had snapped

 

[Homowner]

With no call light none of the other components will have electricity. Need to figure out why no call light


Explain how you installed ecobee light, it needs 24v power source?

Do you have original thermostat? Did you try re installing it? Use a short piece of wire not what you have going to the ecobee.

Try jumping the thermostat. Unhook thermostat wires from stove add a jumper,(short piece of wire) from the two terminals on the stoves thermostat block.

Here is the website (https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/quadrafire-cb1200i-with-ecobee3-lite-smart-thermostat.173191/) I used with instructions and products I used . It was working fine for 2 weeks then suddenly stopped without the call light (red) and after replacing the user motor I opened this post . As of a few minutes ago I ordered both snap disc#1 and #2 through Mountain View Hearth Products
PRINT

2 Items​

• 
  
  

  1 x Quadra-Fire 200 Degree Snap Switch (#2) (SRV230-0900)​

  $39.00
• 
  
  

  1 x Quadra-Fire 1200I Snap Disc 100-20 #1 (SRV7000-829)​

  $7.00

Subtotal$46.00
Shipping$9.95
No Tax Charged$0.00
Total (USD)$55.95

 

[Homowner]

With no call light none of the other components will have electricity. Need to figure out why no call light


Explain how you installed ecobee light, it needs 24v power source?

Do you have original thermostat? Did you try re installing it? Use a short piece of wire not what you have going to the ecobee.

Try jumping the thermostat. Unhook thermostat wires from stove add a jumper,(short piece of wire) from the two terminals on the stoves thermostat block.

Here is the website I followed (https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/quadrafire-cb1200i-with-ecobee3-lite-smart-thermostat.173191/) with instructions and products I used. And yes the transformer is a 24v wall plug model, made by ELK. It worked as normal for 2 weeks then no call light, no auger, only rear vent stainless pipe fan works. Now after ordering SD #1 and #2 I am waiting for the two snap discs.

I should say that the ELK transformer still is showing the green light for output but I will test it today to be sure the output is still outputting 24v.

I then just went to Ecobee Lite T-stat and set it up by choosing my home WiFi network and now I can, (or will soon again) be turning it on from my iPhone app as I jump into the shower. So convenient

 

[ARC]

Here is the website I followed

Sounds like you install properly. I would still unhook thermostat wires at stove and jump the two thermostat terminals with a single small piece of wire. If call light comes on. This would let you know whether the thermostat or wiring from thermostat is the problem.

 

[Homowner]

ARC, I will try that. My suspicion is that the red call light will not appear because it worked for 2 weeks then quit but I won’t be sure until I try it and thank you

 

[Ssyko]

The red call light is a visual proof that there is a need for heat, that’s all it is. Check the fuse for continuity. It is best to just put a wire between the 2 screws for now just for troubleshooting.

 

[Homowner]

Ssyko, thank you I will do that. However after looking it over it looks fine, but I will run an OHMs test

 

[ARC]

The red call light is a visual proof that there is a need for heat, that’s all it is

Not sure I understand this statement. True the indicator light is just there to tell owner the thermostat is calling for heat. If it is not on it is telling owner it is not calling for heat. That said Quad will not run/power auger/blowers without a call for heat. So why is the indicator light not on? Is there power at stove outlet? Power at surge protector? Power at fuses? Fuses good? Is indicator light blown? Is there power at Thermostat ecobee lite runs on 24v OP has 24v adapter running to ecobee. Is there power at outlet? Is the 24v at ecobee? Is ecobee calling for heat? Could it be a setting in ecobee? 2 weeks old could it be a bad ecobee? I have never worked with a smart thermostat not sure what settings it has. Best way to test thermostat is either reinstall original thermostat or add the jumper wire at the thermostat terminal block. Then if power is all good light comes on or not we can trouble shot from that point.

 

[Homowner]

Waiting for Snap Discs #'s 1 & 2 which I believe is getting here on Monday unless a snowstorm or flooding slows the delivery, then I can get back to this forum post I've created

 

[Ssyko]

Exactly where I was going. Eliminating the recover is the best way to troubleshoot😎

Not sure I understand this statement. True the indicator light is just there to tell owner the thermostat is calling for heat. If it is not on it is telling owner it is not calling for heat. That said Quad will not run/power auger/blowers without a call for heat. So why is the indicator light not on? Is there power at stove outlet? Power at surge protector? Power at fuses? Fuses good? Is indicator light blown? Is there power at Thermostat ecobee lite runs on 24v OP has 24v adapter running to ecobee. Is there power at outlet? Is the 24v at ecobee? Is ecobee calling for heat? Could it be a setting in ecobee? 2 weeks old could it be a bad ecobee? I have never worked with a smart thermostat not sure what settings it has. Best way to test thermostat is either reinstall original thermostat or add the jumper wire at the thermostat terminal block. Then if power is all good light comes on or not we can trouble shot from that point.

 

[Homowner]

It is December 30, 2025 and the snap discs #'s 1 & 2 came. I installed as the supplier walked me through it over the phone, may part# and wires color. SoI know I installed those correctly. The fan blew, as it has all along. But no auger movement, even with a new auger motor installed. So if you read what I originally stated when I first posted this you will know how this all started, and reading further will fill you in on what I've done since then, with the help of those here.

What's next I am asking?

 

[Homowner]

Update today Tuesday, December 30,2025. I did see the red call light. No auger movement. Added two large handfuls of pellets. Got augur movement after pressing the reset button 3 times in 3 minutes. I had it in middle feed position. Then I picked up an exhaust vent brush and set of flexible rods. Nothing but dark gray powder after 3 years. I'll wait till tomorrow to move the stove back into the fireplace and re-connect stainless vent piping. But I think I've got it now. Fingers crossed

 

[Former Farmer]

With the power disconnected, pull your control box and clean the connector that plugs into the holder slot. Just use a clean dry rag and wipe off or use an pencil eraser. Reinstall control box.

It is possible that with you depressing the reset button 3 times, that you may have bumped the control box and it is now making contact again. Just something to try without costing you anything.

Your stove, when it calls for heat, will send power through the control box to vacuum switch. Then to the hopper switch, if you have one. You may not if your unit is old enough. Then to the feed motor / auger. This is all 120 volts AC.

If you have a red call light and are not getting any auger movement, check to see if you have 120VAC at the auger motor while the unit is on. Be careful of what you are touching. If you have 120VAC, then your motor is suspect. If you don't have 120VAC, then you need to check for voltage at you hopper switch (if you have one) and at the vacuum switch. Check each side of the hopper switch and vacuum switch by touching one multimeter lead to the one of the switch connectors and the other multimeter lead to the metal frame of the stove.

Let us know how it all turns out for you.

 

[Homowner]

Former Farmer,

Thanks for the tutorial, in essence, that was very helpful. So after replacing both SD's #1 & #2, then placing a couple of handfuls of pellets, I still had not received the red call signal. But it was my mistake. In replacing the cover, the large cover on the top backside, inadvertently crushed the tiny wires from the lid switch, to the pressure/vacuum with. Once I discovered that it was too late to reopen the cover as I had cut one of the wires. They are so small perhaps 24Gauge that I was pretty sure I could not repair it satisfactorily. So knowing the pressure switch was just that, a switch, I pulled off the terminal and unplugged it from a second wire which I'm still not sure where it went, but then plugged back in that ,second wire and slid it back onto the pressure/vacuum switch.

Once I plugged that in I did get the convection blower , the red call light and pellets, then the fire. However once it reached peak temperature it did not come on even after reaching a degree lower. So after thinking it over I went back to my ecobee t-stat and readjusted the settings from a 2° preference to a 1° and voila. All is well

I do have one further step to accomplish and that is to remove the sheet metal v-shaped cover over the auger motor under the lid in front, in order to further tighten the augur shaft collars, as a rattle is telling me I did not tighten it sufficiently when putting it back together.

Also, as you suggested, I will today then pull out the control box, slide it out, and clean the contacts. As it happens I have a spray can of CVC QD electrical cleaner that I can spray on there contact strip. It evaporates rapidly so a quick wipe and done as I understand it.

If I have any further trouble I will revisit this post, but before I go I want to give a shout out to all of you who have been so helpful. Johneh, ARC and Former Farmer specifically. But to anyone who gave advice, as I did gladly take it and I learned a pretty good amount that going forward I think I can for the most part now, be able to do a lot of maintenance and repair on my. own now.

Late Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all of you.

 

[Homowner]

Former Farmer,

Thanks for the tutorial, in essence, that was very helpful. So after replacing both SD's #1 & #2, then placing a couple of handfuls of pellets, I still had not received the red call signal. But it was my mistake. In replacing the cover, the large cover on the top backside, inadvertently crushed the tiny wires from the lid switch, to the pressure/vacuum with. Once I discovered that it was too late to reopen the cover as I had cut one of the wires. They are so small perhaps 24Gauge that I was pretty sure I could not repair it satisfactorily. So knowing the pressure switch was just that, a switch, I pulled off the terminal and unplugged it from a second wire which I'm still not sure where it went, but then plugged back in that ,second wire and slid it back onto the pressure/vacuum switch.

Once I plugged that in I did get the convection blower , the red call light and pellets, then the fire. However once it reached peak temperature it did not come on even after reaching a degree lower. So after thinking it over I went back to my ecobee t-stat and readjusted the settings from a 2° preference to a 1° and voila. All is well

I do have one further step to accomplish and that is to remove the sheet metal v-shaped cover over the auger motor under the lid in front, in order to further tighten the augur shaft collars, as a rattle is telling me I did not tighten it sufficiently when putting it back together.

Also, as you suggested, I will today then pull out the control box, slide it out, and clean the contacts. As it happens I have a spray can of CVC QD electrical cleaner that I can spray on there contact strip. It evaporates rapidly so a quick wipe and done as I understand it.

If I have any further trouble I will revisit this post, but before I go I want to give a shout out to all of you who have been so helpful. Johneh, ARC and Former Farmer specifically. But to anyone who gave advice, as I did gladly take it and I learned a pretty good amount that going forward I think I can for the most part now, be able to do a lot of maintenance and repair on my. own now.

Late Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all of you.

 

[Homowner]

Looking for a cause for a noise coming from whenever the augur motor is running.

At startup and each time the augur is running, it emits a sort of rattling noise. I have removed the sheet metal plates (x3) covering the motor, and double-checked the two collars that the motor shaft runs through for tightness. And at the secondary collar, that the coiled pellet shaft runs through. The two Allen screws are quite tight within both collars. So tight I couldn't even nudge them any tighter.

Is it possible that I did not seat the pellet shaft up high enough into that collar? Could that be causing the rattle? It does seem to wobble when I had the stove out a fair amount. It truly sound less like a banging of shaft against metal surround within which the pellets are traveling upward, than it does another source of noise, more like a bit of grinding. And by the way I did manage to get all 4 screws tight into the motor mounting bracket. There is no movement whatsoever.

Looking for a common cause of this type of sound. And I will say that this rattling/grinding sound was not present prior to replacing the motor. I do still have the old motor, which I later found still was working, but being a novice at this I chose to replace it thinking that might have been the problem

Looking at this pic, you are facing the upward traveling pellet shaft from the top rear position. So the coiled shaft is in an upright and forward angling position, and the coiled shaft is at the bottom leaning up and away. I hope I described that well. You can also note that the coiled shaft has thin sheet metal against the sides and the bottom but not along as it turns within the heavier gauge metal housing.

Also I don't seem to have any problems with the pellets being fed into the pot.

If this is simply a matter of lubricating the coiled augur shaft, what brand of silicon spray lubricant is non-combustible? I ask that knowing that I do have dust in my pellets whenever I vacuum them out and certainly don't want a fire or even smoke within the pellet bin. After searching I cannot find a silicone spray listed as non-combustible

Saturday 01/03/2025

 

[Homowner]

So after I thought about it my replacing the auger motor thinking it was dead, being the novice that I am, I just took out the new $40 motor I found online, and put the original OEM motor back in.

It still works and is quiet. Quality lasts.

This tells me to NEVER again buy a part this important from a “Made in China” seller

Hopefully I am now becoming a step up from novice level maintenance mechanic

Thanks again to all for their support and knowledge