How close are we to the limits of efficiency? What's next? Will newer catalysts provide significant gains? Will automatic adjustments filter in to provide better burning? Will better materials be the answer? Lot's to ponder!
I remember seeing that thread or threads. I thought to myself that if I built that, it would be gravity or spring-loaded to shut the air down in the event of a power failure. That wouldn't work with a servo (at least not the servos I have worked with), but there are other options to move a lever.Several years ago someone modified their PE stove with servo controls. It looked fairly effective in operation. The kicker for me would be reliability. Stove electronics need to be hardened and protected against surge currents, etc. Electronics failure is a too common problem with pellet stoves. It's not like it can't or isn't done. Furnaces have a better reliability record achieving the same functions.
Not necessarily, the right heat exchanger, and most importantly somewhere to put all that heat like into a thermal mass, could reduce emissions while maintaining low stack temps.A fast hot burn would move a lot of heat through the flue to the great outdoors.
Proper air control allows to load up and walk away for a day already.
I like this idea as well, and have thought of a few different ways stove builders could make kits to tune the stove to the chimney setup.Electronics are one obvious route to take, but another option would be to offer the service to tune the system after install.
Sure you can, that is the entire principle behind using a boiler with thermal storage, heat it up and allow it to slowly release. Masonry heaters also work on this principle.Heating up thermal mass is slow (by definition, or it's not sufficient mass...).
Gas flow thru a hot fire is fast (because making it less hot is done via decreasing the flow).
You can't heat up thermal mass quickly and have it give off heat slowly.
Or more practically with a cast iron jacket on a steel stove. That allows the stove to heat up quickly and the cast iron jacket to soak up heat over time.Building a stove with say 1 1/2" plate would prove this point, it would take a couple hours to get it up to temp, but it would release heat all day.
It has been done for a long time with masonry heaters in Europe. It does work but they are huge structures that the house is pretty much built around.Heating up thermal mass is slow (by definition, or it's not sufficient mass...).
Gas flow thru a hot fire is fast (because making it less hot is done via decreasing the flow).
You can't heat up thermal mass quickly and have it give off heat slowly.
Sorry but something about what you said just isn't sitting right with me. What definition? It's hot, it generates more heat. Where the heat goes is up to the technology not the fire.But, a quick hot fire by definition (unless one has a convoluted flue path as in a masonry heater), pushes a lot of the heat generated from the fuel out into the outdoors.
Not much higher. The total amount of oxygen needed for complete combustion is the same whether you burn fast or slow. The key to maxing the output from your stove is to give it just enough oxygen without carrying excess heat up the chimney, and it is doable at a high or low burn rate. Thanks to technology.Hot fires are only hot by the grace of burning a lot of fuel in a short time, for which a high gas flow is necessary.
I feel like this is conflating heat flux with total heat loss. Maybe heat is leaving a bit more rapidly, but the duration is shorter. The total heat lost is not higher with a hotter fire, in fact I think in many cases it is the opposite. Depending, of course, on the type of system you have to capture the heat.As that gas is hotter, and flows faster, the heat flux going out the door is larger as compared to a longer less hot burn in the same system.