New to wood stove

[Terrigirl]

This is my first year using the wood stove in the house. Any advice anyone can give on how to get over the fear of it would be greatly appreciated. My main fear is that my parents had a chimney fire when I was younger and I keep remembering that. Anytime I start to feel comfortable, I remember that and anxiety kicks in. I am burning hickory that I was told was ready to burn, but some of it honestly doesn’t seem as dry as the rest. I am hoping to get comfortable before the really cold weather hits Ohio.

The forum is helping me learn a little more and I really do hope that I can get more comfortable soon.

Thanks in advance for any advice on how to be less afraid of my wood stove. I think it will be a great backup soirce this winter when I get to know my stove a little better.

 

[Eman85]

Tell us about the stove. What brand and what chimney and stove pipe? Was it already installed or did you have it installed? Has it been cleaned and inspected if it was already there?
I like the smell of Hickory but it really snaps crackles and pops when it burns. Unless you know the wood and how long it's been dried or have it moisture tested assume it's not dry enough.

 

[stoveliker]

Yes, what stove, how tall is the chimney?

Get a moisture meter so you can check dryness yourself. I have a general tools mmd4e of about $30, but others are likely equally fine. You'd have to bring a piece of wood up to room temperature (24 hrs inside) and then split it in half. Then you stick the pins in the freshly exposed surface so that you measure the moisture content of the inside of the piece. If the stove is installed properly, this is one of the most important things to avoid unsafe issues: burn dry wood.

Second, know how to keep the wood from smoldering as that creates creosote which is the fuel for a chimney fire.

Third, I would buy a soot eater and check and clean the chimney every month. If it is good (little, and powdery accumulation rather than a lot and sticky), you're doing things right. You can later decrease the frequency when things are going well as evidenced by how the chimney looks.

Fourth, get more wood now. Split it, stack it off the ground, cover it. Most wood needs two years to dry enough. Oak may need three years. Pine, ash, cherry may be good within a year. As said above, whatever you buy is most likely not good enough to burn that year. You'll have to dry your wood yourself. Don't trust the word of others. Measure yourself, and dry it yourself. Too dry doesn't exist, generally, so even if it's good, it won't hurt the wood to sit two more years if off the ground and too covered.

Fifth, take small steps. Make a small fire. See how the stove behaves. Next time, make a slightly larger fire.

Sixth, read the manual (seriously, even if you are used to burning from a long time ago - modern stoves are different and need different operation).

For more practical advice, we need to know the stove and chimney.

Also, see this thread about operating a modern stove:

Starting a fire and running an EPA stove

Questions about starting a fire and avoiding a runaway stove come up so frequently I decided to document starting our stove. This is a Pacific Energy Alderlea T6 with about a 3 cu ft firebox. The stove is connected to a straight-up, 20' interior flue. The outside ambient temperature is 34ºF. The...

www.hearth.com

 

[Dix]

This is my first year using the wood stove in the house. Any advice anyone can give on how to get over the fear of it would be greatly appreciated. My main fear is that my parents had a chimney fire when I was younger and I keep remembering that. Anytime I start to feel comfortable, I remember that and anxiety kicks in. I am burning hickory that I was told was ready to burn, but some of it honestly doesn’t seem as dry as the rest. I am hoping to get comfortable before the really cold weather hits Ohio.

The forum is helping me learn a little more and I really do hope that I can get more comfortable soon.

Thanks in advance for any advice on how to be less afraid of my wood stove. I think it will be a great backup soirce this winter when I get to know my stove a little better.

It takes time, and there is a learning curve, for sure. I was afraid to let the stove burn when I wasn't home in the beginning. Took a few days of 10F during the day to get over that issue

Source more wood NOW, to get yourself ahead of the game, you'll appreciate it next year, and the year after, and keep staying ahead.

Staying on top of your chimney cleaning will give you some piece of mind as well.

Welcome to the Forums !

 

[Terrigirl]

Tell us about the stove. What brand and what chimney and stove pipe? Was it already installed or did you have it installed? Has it been cleaned and inspected if it was already there?
I like the smell of Hickory but it really snaps crackles and pops when it burns. Unless you know the wood and how long it's been dried or have it moisture tested assume it's not dry enough.

The stove is a Dutchwest, that is what the label on the back says. I don’t have any info on installation, it was here when I bought the house 3 years ago. The people that lived here said they used it all the time. I did have the chimney cleaned in preparation for use because I wasn’t sure when they did last. I feel as though the previous owner did the installation, so I am trying to get a pro to inspect it. It has seemed fine the few times I have used it, but just for my piece of mind I want a pro to check it out. The hickory smells so good. After reading a few posts I did order a moisture measuring device. The company ai bought the wood from said it was dry and ready, but again for my piece of mind. I am very new at this stuff.

 

[stoveliker]

It will be important to keep the fire hot enough to ensure there will be no build up in the chimney.

When you have the chimney inspected, ask if it has an insulated liner, and if not, whether there is a 2" clearance from the outside of the brick to any combustibles over all its length.

 

[Terrigirl]

It will be important to keep the fire hot enough to ensure there will be no build up in the chimney.

When you have the chimney inspected, ask if it has an insulated liner, and if not, whether there is a 2" clearance from the outside of the brick to any combustibles over all its length.

It’s a steel pipe chimney, 10 inch diameter (measured it earlier this year), and there is at least two inches between pipe and the house. From what I read online it goes up high enough from the peak of the house. I have been trying to learn as much as I can. A couple of the guys at work have been giving me some pointers. The main pointer I got was no pine, ever.

How about those chimney sweeping logs? Are they a good idea at all?

 

[Tar12]

Be very leery of any wood you buy as being "dry" ...it is usually not...put your meter to use..bring several pieces of that hickory inside for 24 hours to allow it to come to room temp...split a piece and test along the face of the fresh split...it is important to bring the wood inside and allow it to warm to room temp..

 

[stoveliker]

Ok. So this is shiny pipe outside of the house? That is class A. 10" outside diameter, I presume. That suggests (I think, I may be corrected here) an 8" internal diameter. That might be large.

It is likely tall enough - important because the total height determines the draft that is the engine for the stove. Not the height above the roof (which has a safety minimum) but the total height.

Creosote logs help by making creosote easier to remove. They do not remove it. It still needs sweeping. They make creosote crunchier.

No pine ever means you should disregard whatever they say. This is wrong. Period. Full stop. They don't know what they are talking about.

If pine is dry, it is good. In fact, pine dries quickly and is a great help in getting ahead with wood (storing multiple years of wood so that you can dry it multiple years before burning).

 

[1kzwoman]

Welcome to the forum!
Pine can be burned IF DRY! It’s mostly what’s available here so it’s what I usually burn. There my be a rare chunk of spruce or fir but no real hardwood. Keep reading and asking questions, you’ll do well!

 

[Dix]

Pine is your friend, comes in very, very handy.

Your pointers will come from here, have no doubt what so ever.

 

[begreen]

Welcome Terri. Sounds like this may be a Dutchwest large, but maybe not. Triple-wall DuraPlus 6" chimney is 10" OD. Was the chimney and stovepipe cleaned for this season? That's essential. This stove may have a catalyst and a bypass control. Learning how to use the bypass and when is important.

Do you have the manual for the stove? If you can get the model number off the back that would help us help you. Or take some pictures of the stove and post them.

 

[Terrigirl]

Welcome Terri. Sounds like this may be a Dutchwest large, but maybe not. Triple-wall DuraPlus 6" chimney is 10" OD. Was the chimney and stovepipe cleaned for this season? That's essential. This stove may have a catalyst and a bypass control. Learning how to use the bypass and when is important.

Do you have the manual for the stove? If you can get the model number off the back that would help us help you. Or take some pictures of the stove and post them.

I have the manual, read it when I gave my insurance company the info they needed. I will have to find where I put it and double check on the exact stove. Here is a picture of the set up. I don’t know exactly how old the stove is. I am considering a new one next year, but a couple people have told mwle that all the new ones have parts that are expensive to maintain. This one keeps ny house too hot sometimes, especially the upstairs. But I will probably appreciate that in a month or so.

 

[Terrigirl]

Yes, what stove, how tall is the chimney?

Get a moisture meter so you can check dryness yourself. I have a general tools mmd4e of about $30, but others are likely equally fine. You'd have to bring a piece of wood up to room temperature (24 hrs inside) and then split it in half. Then you stick the pins in the freshly exposed surface so that you measure the moisture content of the inside of the piece. If the stove is installed properly, this is one of the most important things to avoid unsafe issues: burn dry wood.

Second, know how to keep the wood from smoldering as that creates creosote which is the fuel for a chimney fire.

Third, I would buy a soot eater and check and clean the chimney every month. If it is good (little, and powdery accumulation rather than a lot and sticky), you're doing things right. You can later decrease the frequency when things are going well as evidenced by how the chimney looks.

Fourth, get more wood now. Split it, stack it off the ground, cover it. Most wood needs two years to dry enough. Oak may need three years. Pine, ash, cherry may be good within a year. As said above, whatever you buy is most likely not good enough to burn that year. You'll have to dry your wood yourself. Don't trust the word of others. Measure yourself, and dry it yourself. Too dry doesn't exist, generally, so even if it's good, it won't hurt the wood to sit two more years if off the ground and too covered.

Fifth, take small steps. Make a small fire. See how the stove behaves. Next time, make a slightly larger fire.

Sixth, read the manual (seriously, even if you are used to burning from a long time ago - modern stoves are different and need different operation).

For more practical advice, we need to know the stove and chimney.

Also, see this thread about operating a modern stove:

Starting a fire and running an EPA stove

Questions about starting a fire and avoiding a runaway stove come up so frequently I decided to document starting our stove. This is a Pacific Energy Alderlea T6 with about a 3 cu ft firebox. The stove is connected to a straight-up, 20' interior flue. The outside ambient temperature is 34ºF. The...

www.hearth.com

Keeping the wood from smoldering is what I am worried about. I try not to have it in that lower temp for long when I start it, but on windy days it is hard to get a good fire going. I am learning the stove, and it has certain spots it seems to like the wood. If that makes any sense at all.

 

[kborndale]

Keeping the wood from smoldering is what I am worried about. I try not to have it in that lower temp for long when I start it, but on windy days it is hard to get a good fire going. I am learning the stove, and it has certain spots it seems to like the wood. If that makes any sense at all.

Getting fully dry wood will make it much easier to get a good fire going.

 

[stoveliker]

Yes, dry wood.

Regarding that it is hard to get a fire going on windy days, is the chimney not the highest part of your home?


There are modern stoves that are efficient and don't use much expensive parts (if any parts at all). So if you are looking for another stove in the future, ask @begreen for suggestions. (Better to start thinking now rather than make a hasty decision then imo)

 

[marty319]

Do not listen to people that say don't burn pine.i burn 24/ 7 with strictly pine and have no issues whatsoever. I would love to have some better wood but I make do with what I have.good luck on your wood burning endeavor.

 

[begreen]

I have the manual, read it when I gave my insurance company the info they needed. I will have to find where I put it and double check on the exact stove. Here is a picture of the set up. I don’t know exactly how old the stove is. I am considering a new one next year, but a couple people have told mwle that all the new ones have parts that are expensive to maintain. This one keeps ny house too hot sometimes, especially the upstairs. But I will probably appreciate that in a month or so.

View attachment 304608

Yes, definitely locate the manual. It's important for understanding the stove operation. It looks like it might be a model 2478, but that needs confirming.