New to woodstoves, need advice

[Jerseybowhunter]

Just bought a 1500 square ft rancher, completely remodeling it and removed the old gas fireplace and would like to replace it with a wood stove with a glass door. My issue is clearance, I’ve done some research about clearances and building a heat sheild with the 1” air gap, etc; the location I would like to install it is only 38” wide from 2x4 to 2x4, I can’t open it up anymore due to the flue for the furnace running from the basement right along the stud. Most wood stoves I’ve looked at wouldnt have enough sidewall clearance. I can remove the header to give me the ceiling clearance. My initial design was to leave it framed as is, do a non-conbustable “cubby” on a 2x6 framed hearth all lined with backer board and stone to give it a fireplace look but after reading about ceiling clearances I decided the better option is to remove the header and frame the walls straight back and build a squared cubby and have the stove half in, half out which would give me the back and ceiling clearance and be able to use the same hose through the attic and roof as the gas glue but not the side clearance. Anyway around this? Most stoves I’ve seen are 25” or so, that gives me 6.5” on each side to the studs... with the air gapped heat shield it would be down around to 4.5” on each side. I’m open to any designs or ideas, I can’t really bring the stove too far out because with the 16” hearth in front, it would be in the middle of the room. Please help... I’m sure someone here has felt with the same issues

 

[bholler]

Just bought a 1500 square ft rancher, completely remodeling it and removed the old gas fireplace and would like to replace it with a wood stove with a glass door. My issue is clearance, I’ve done some research about clearances and building a heat sheild with the 1” air gap, etc; the location I would like to install it is only 38” wide from 2x4 to 2x4, I can’t open it up anymore due to the flue for the furnace running from the basement right along the stud. Most wood stoves I’ve looked at wouldnt have enough sidewall clearance. I can remove the header to give me the ceiling clearance. My initial design was to leave it framed as is, do a non-conbustable “cubby” on a 2x6 framed hearth all lined with backer board and stone to give it a fireplace look but after reading about ceiling clearances I decided the better option is to remove the header and frame the walls straight back and build a squared cubby and have the stove half in, half out which would give me the back and ceiling clearance and be able to use the same hose through the attic and roof as the gas glue but not the side clearance. Anyway around this? Most stoves I’ve seen are 25” or so, that gives me 6.5” on each side to the studs... with the air gapped heat shield it would be down around to 4.5” on each side. I’m open to any designs or ideas, I can’t really bring the stove too far out because with the 16” hearth in front, it would be in the middle of the room. Please help... I’m sure someone here has felt with the same issues

Stoves will have specific alcove clearance requirements but your space is really narrow I don't know of any that will fit there.

 

[WinterinWI]

It sucks that the furnace flue is there. Tearing out that angled wall completely then building a hearth there would be ideal. I'd try to find a way to relocate it. Doesn't look like there is a good/easy way to do that though.

 

[kennyp2339]

Why stuff a wood burner into a hole when your opening everything up.

 

[Jerseybowhunter]

Why stuff a wood burner into a hole when your opening everything up.

I really have no choice because of the furnace flue. I’d love to take that whole wall out and put it in the corner but I’d have to relocate the furnace flue

 

[moresnow]

If the rest of the place is ready for a complete remodel it may be worth replacing the furnace at this time with a power vent model. Vent the new furnace horizontally out the sill. Then your existing furnace vent could be removed. Problem solved. Rip out the angle wall and install the stove of choice. A thought.

 

[Jerseybowhunter]

I plan on making a heat sheild with sheet metal against the studs, 1” spacers, 1/2” backer board with a 1/2” stone or tile face, from what I understand by doing this I cut clearances in half but is that clearances to the studs or to the finish stone wall? For instance, if the stove allows for 12” clearance from the corner to the wall, is that to the combustible 2x4 or is it to the stone heat sheild

 

[barnaclebob]

Can you relocate the furnace flue by tucking it into that corner by the stairs on the other side of the wall? What about moving it to the back corner of the cubby that its in? Jog it over in the basement then back out again in the attic?

Another option could be to go with blown furnace exhaust out the side of the house but I don't know if that has to be built into the furnace itself. My furnace has blown exhaust and intake air out the side of the house with PVC ducting but its a newer high efficiency furnace.

Clearances will be to the nearest combustibles.

 

[Rickb]

I plan on making a heat sheild with sheet metal against the studs, 1” spacers, 1/2” backer board with a 1/2” stone or tile face, from what I understand by doing this I cut clearances in half but is that clearances to the studs or to the finish stone wall? For instance, if the stove allows for 12” clearance from the corner to the wall, is that to the combustible 2x4 or is it to the stone heat sheild

Its distance to combustibles. But that said you will have to refer to the manufacturer as to how much it cuts down the space required. I don't think its always 1/2.

You could also use metal 2x4's for framing. Thats what I did so there was no combustibles around the stove area.

 

[Jerseybowhunter]

Can you relocate the furnace flue by tucking it into that corner by the stairs on the other side of the wall? What about moving it to the back corner of the cubby that its in? Jog it over in the basement then back out again in the attic?

Another option could be to go with blown furnace exhaust out the side of the house but I don't know if that has to be built into the furnace itself. My furnace has blown exhaust and intake air out the side of the house with PVC ducting but its a newer high efficiency furnace.

Clearances will be to the nearest combustibles.

I thought about doing that, then I’d take that wall down and just have a 12” or so 45 wall on the back to hide the furnace flue and the wood stove will be out in the open with plenty of clearance. I’ll have to get with my hvac buddy to see if that will work

 

[bholler]

I plan on making a heat sheild with sheet metal against the studs, 1” spacers, 1/2” backer board with a 1/2” stone or tile face, from what I understand by doing this I cut clearances in half but is that clearances to the studs or to the finish stone wall? For instance, if the stove allows for 12” clearance from the corner to the wall, is that to the combustible 2x4 or is it to the stone heat sheild

You can only do that if the manufacturer of the stove specifies that you can and gives you a clearance for it. And it has to be their alcove clearance not regular