New Tractor Break-In Period

[sdrobertson]

I just purchased a AGCO 34A Compact Tractor and the manual says that during the first 50 hours I should run the engine at full rpm. That's allot of running it full tilt so my question is anyone know why? Is it ok to just let it set and run at full speed for long periods of time or should I only run it when I'm using it. The reason is that I'm in a village and I don't want to listen to a full tilt running tractor over the whole weekend (OK-I do but the neighbors probably don't!)

 

[LLigetfa]

The pistons travel further full RPM and at full RPM, there is less torque applied. I remember as a kid, friends buying cars from old ladies that only drove them on Sunday and the rings seated lower than they would if rev'd. The rings would bash up against the ridge at high revs and wreck the engine.

The reason not to torque a new engine at low revs is the break-in oil has metal particulate in.

 

[burntime]

Now that makes sense. But what are we talking a few thousandths? How big of a difference is it? Not doubting you just woner how much...

 

[sdrobertson]

The reason not to torque a new engine at low revs is the break-in oil has metal particulate in.

Would it be ok then to have the rpm's lower if the engine is not worked hard. I'm not plowing or anything, just running around picking up brush piles and sightseeing, or do the rpm's have to go all the way during break-in? The torque issue makes allot of sense.

 

[LLigetfa]

As long as you take the engine up to full revs for short periods and don't torque, it will be just fine. The other thing I forgot to mention is that engine cooling could be a factor of RPM as well but we're not in the heat of Summer now so not really an issue.

 

[sdrobertson]

Thank You guys for your quick responses!!

 

[Highbeam]

I would follow the manufacturers directions if they are specific. That said, I have never heard of a tractor being broke in that way. My tractor was broken in per the manual by using it and being sure to vary the RPMs during the first 50 hours. I mowed a tall grass field for the first 25 or so and just made sure to adjust the RPMs. Haven't burnt any oil in the last 750 hours since.

 

[sdrobertson]

This was why I was questioning it - from the manual

"Operation of the tractor within the first fifty hours can be a major factor in determining the performance and life of the engine and tractor:
Operate engine at full rpm. Avoid excessive load. If engine begins to "lug", operate in a lower gear to maintain higher engine speed."

Everything else is clear so I'll follow your recommendations.

Thanks Again,
Shannon

 

[kenskip1]

The pistons travel further full RPM and at full RPM, there is less torque applied. I remember as a kid, friends buying cars from old ladies that only drove them on Sunday and the rings seated lower than they would if rev'd. The rings would bash up against the ridge at high revs and wreck the engine.

The reason not to torque a new engine at low revs is the break-in oil has metal particulate in.[/quote]



Man, this is the most stupid comment that I have ever heard. The piston travels further. Man you had better get a good mechanics manual and get some education. As to the old ladies, they would just idle them. And the valves would carbon up, thereby raising the compression ratio.The rings would bash up against the ridge? Man what planet did you hop off.

This on is the best,'the break-in oil has metal particulate in."

My friend, I would never take any type of equipment anywhere near you. I do not mean to be disrespectful but you will never make $$$ with opinions like these.

 

[Highbeam]

I'm going to try to not be "stupid" Shannon but perhaps the manual meant something a little different with the term of "full RPM". I have read manuals that say not to lug the engine or load it beyond what the governor can make up for during reak in. A diesel tractor engine works by you setting the RPM with the RPM control lever and then as the load varies on the engine more or less fuel is added to maintain that RPM. If you load the engine too much then the RPMs will drop despite full fueling and this could be what the manual is warning against.

I do not think that the intention of the manual was for you to crank the engine to redline with no load and then walk away for 50 hours. Don't do that. Your engine can handle that and is made for it after break in but I wouldn't advise it during break in. Generally, red line is the same RPM as the PTO540 rpm.

In my experience with a Korean made tractor (my Kioti), the folks that convert the manuals to english are not very good at speaking english and often screw it up. Isn't agco a china tractor? I have had good advice from dealers and manufacturer's reps on the tractorbynet site.

 

[steam man]

I don't usually cruise this forum but I will tell you about "break in" periods. This is strictly for getting the piston rings to wear in correctly. If you ran at light loads the cylinders may glaze over and you will have an engine that will have oil control problems and smoke. Sometimes if rings/liner are not broken in properly the engine would be dismantled and the cylinders re-honed. Run the engine like the manufacturer says. RPM is not the same as applying load. Run it loaded and at rpm while your using it-not idling. Lugging an engine may cause bearing/gear tooth problems etc....

Mike

 

[JustWood]

One of the diesel monkeys that wrench on my big trucks always says, "Break it in exactly how you're going to run it."

 

[mjbrown]

One of the diesel monkeys that wrench on my big trucks always says, "Break it in exactly how you're going to run it."

sounds about right. i had a 454 built by a drag racer once , and when he came out to time the motor for me after the rebuild, he told me it had to be broke in right or it would come undone. then he grabbed 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears and dumped about 150 ft of rubber in front of my fathers house(i had to go buy new tires next). my ol' man was pissed! glad i dont have that truck anymore...got into way to much trouble, not to mention the old man beat the tar out me after he bailed me out of jail.


now i stick to the 4 and 6 bangers.


mike

 

[mjbrown]

The pistons travel further full RPM and at full RPM, there is less torque applied. I remember as a kid, friends buying cars from old ladies that only drove them on Sunday and the rings seated lower than they would if rev'd. The rings would bash up against the ridge at high revs and wreck the engine.

The reason not to torque a new engine at low revs is the break-in oil has metal particulate in.

Man, this is the most stupid comment that I have ever heard. The piston travels further. Man you had better get a good mechanics manual and get some education. As to the old ladies, they would just idle them. And the valves would carbon up, thereby raising the compression ratio.The rings would bash up against the ridge? Man what planet did you hop off.

This on is the best,'the break-in oil has metal particulate in."

My friend, I would never take any type of equipment anywhere near you. I do not mean to be disrespectful but you will never make $$$ with opinions like these.[/quote]


no need for personal attacks man...if you disagree with another poster,, then fine, but you dont have to go off like that.

you say you meant no disrespect...what are the1st,3rd,7th8th and 9th sentances? a fine how do you do? its uncalled for...no need to be rude.

 

[sdrobertson]

I'm going to try to not be "stupid" Shannon but perhaps the manual meant something a little different with the term of "full RPM". I have read manuals that say not to lug the engine or load it beyond what the governor can make up for during reak in. A diesel tractor engine works by you setting the RPM with the RPM control lever and then as the load varies on the engine more or less fuel is added to maintain that RPM. If you load the engine too much then the RPMs will drop despite full fueling and this could be what the manual is warning against.

I do not think that the intention of the manual was for you to crank the engine to redline with no load and then walk away for 50 hours. Don't do that. Your engine can handle that and is made for it after break in but I wouldn't advise it during break in. Generally, red line is the same RPM as the PTO540 rpm.

In my experience with a Korean made tractor (my Kioti), the folks that convert the manuals to english are not very good at speaking english and often screw it up. Isn't agco a china tractor? I have had good advice from dealers and manufacturer's reps on the tractorbynet site.

Agco is another name for Massey Ferguson. A couple of local dealers who were selling Kubota and one for TYM stated that they had hear that Agco was going to switch and only build the 50 plus HP and let the compacts go back to the Massey name. I don't have a clue as to the true in this or if they just wanted to sell me one of their tractors. The tractor I purchased was a little less money than a Kubota but it weighs in a over a thousand pounds more. That and 72 months zero interest sold me. I'm breaking it in by running it around the yard but using the foot throttle so that I can vary the speed up and back down. Just picking up brush and cleaning the yard. Thanks again guys.

 

[kenskip1]

Dear members,I apologize for my past statement. I WAS rude and totally out of line on my statement. I meant know harm or bad intentions. However, I would suggest that this gentleman read some literature and hopefully this will help him with his future diagnosis. Sorry all, Ken

 

[mjbrown]

ken,

thank you for your second post...this was big of you. i too, will admit when i was wrong. i only posted on this because i come here EVERY day , and look at everyone here as not only a source of help or information, but also as friends from abroad. though we may never meet, it is nice to know that you can go to any section of this forum, and get the help you are possibly desperately in need of. i know without these people, i would have certainly been screwed on a few occassions, and would really hate to alienate any of them..

thanx again, hope to talk to you soon,

mike