new wood stove installation - help along the way needed

[stevesstove]

Hello,
New to the site, but I have been reading a lot of the articles people have posted. I have an old home that had no fireplace and really wanted to burn wood, so I decided to purchase a wood stove. I decided to give the installation a go by myself. I am hoping some of the experts on here will chime in as I post my progress, and yell if I make a wrong move. Thanks in advance for the help and advice.

Background:
Stove that I bought is a Pacific Energy Alderlea t5 and the pipe is hart and cooley tlc 6". The installation is on the main level of a two story home, through the wall and up. The chimney will be enclosed in a year or two when I re side the home, but as for now, it will be an exposed exterior run.

 

[kennyp2339]

Just follow your clearances closely, remember that the stove maybe installed closer to a combustible wall but if your using single wall black pipe the stove may need to be kicked out further into the room to meet the 18" minimum clearance of the black pipe. Also remember that the class A chimney needs to have a clearance minimum of 2" from any combustibles. Anchoring brackets are essential and strait runs are preferred. Also the minimum chimney height needs to be 15ft, depending on your draft you may need to install additional class a chimney height due to smoke turbulence from the (2) 90deg bends going from the stove then the T on the outside of the house.

 

[stevesstove]

 

[stevesstove]

thanks for the quick response! This is what I have so far.
I made a tile area to fit stove and all clearances, had to remove a window , re insulate, re side the exterior of the home and begin install. I had to clear a small overhang that is part of the home ( 12") the manufacturer ok'd it , and told me they would write a letter when I am complete stating that I discussed with them. This will help with my inspection for insurance purposes I hope. I was told I have to have a certified chimney installer inspect and fill out a form. The tee support was ok'd by Hart and Cooley to go on the first section of pipe above the tee, due to my overhang.
The main thing I am nervous about how is the best way to cut the roof to go through. Any helpful tips on this?

Inside the home will be cement board , and some type of veneer stone I have yet to pick out....

Thanks in advance for the help!!

 

[begreen]

The chimney pipe will need to maintain 2" clearance going through the soffit. I'm no carpenter, but maybe box in a hole through the soffit? Or complete the chase on the roof top that will eventually be continued below the soffit?

Will you be using double-wall connector pipe indoors?

 

[kennyp2339]

Double black pipe strait up from the stove with (2) 45deg elbows then going into the class a pipe would look really nice. It looks like you are well on your way and doing a good job.
How's the wood supply looking?

 

[stevesstove]

The chimney pipe will need to maintain 2" clearance going through the soffit. I'm no carpenter, but maybe box in a hole through the soffit? Or complete the chase on the roof top that will eventually be continued below the soffit?

Will you be using double-wall connector pipe indoors?

Good idea thanks. I bought the rafter radiation shield to go through, but not sure if I need it? boxing it in with a good clearance sounds just as good. My double wall chimney that comes through the thimble to the interior is a little longer than expected, maybe 8" after stone is up. Can I paint that end of stainless to match black pipe indoors. I will be using black double wall indoors. Havnt picked yet but maybe ventis??

 

[stevesstove]

Double black pipe strait up from the stove with (2) 45deg elbows then going into the class a pipe would look really nice. It looks like you are well on your way and doing a good job.
How's the wood supply looking?

Ok thanks, so two 45's instead of a 90 for draft purpose? I will have somewhere around roughly 48" from the top of the stove to the bottom of the pipe coming into the room.... I think.

Wood supply isn't the greatest. I have enough for maybe 3/4 of a season of dry hardwood but I have start cutting. I may have to get some delievered for the first year since this wont be seasoned in time. From here on out, I will be able to stay ahead of it. This installation is taking me longer than I thought because I ask so many questions and am a worrier on every piece of it, lol. thanks for the help!!

 

[begreen]

Ok thanks, so two 45's instead of a 90 for draft purpose? I will have somewhere around roughly 48" from the top of the stove to the bottom of the pipe coming into the room.... I think.

 

[stevesstove]

View attachment 226510

ok , that makes sense.

Question on the clearances of outside pipe, 2". Since my old aluminum siding sticks out 1/4" at each panel, i tried to make my wall brackets mount at the very end of the siding panel, on the highest point. It seems like if you mounted them on the top or middle of each siding panel , you would violate the 2" clearance at every ridge of the siding. Even though its aluminum, not sure if that violates since its not a combustible material?? Does that make sense?

thanks again

 

[begreen]

Sounds ok. The 2" clearance is to nearest combustible which would be the wood under the aluminum siding.

 

[stevesstove]

Ok good to know. I tried to error on the side of caution. I have about 2 1/4" clearance to the aluminum so I'm good. I will cut through the roof this weekend and post a pic of how it goes. Stove needs to be picked up, so I need to get moving on the stone work as well. Will keep posting, thanks for the help!

 

[stevesstove]

Well nothing but storms this weekend so cutting through the roof wasn't going to happen. I did manage to get my hands on some stone and start the wall finishing. I'm hoping when I get to the pipe I can make the stone look half way decent. The trim collar doesn't really cover much more than the thimble opening itself. . . . . will post a pic.

 

[stevesstove]

 

[stevesstove]

I installed an outlet at the bottom, which will be just to the left of where the stove will sit. This will be for the blower I bought with the stove, but not sure if it will be worth having or not. We will find out.

 

[begreen]

I installed an outlet at the bottom, which will be just to the left of where the stove will sit. This will be for the blower I bought with the stove, but not sure if it will be worth having or not. We will find out.

The blower will be handy when it's very cold out and when you want to warm up a larger area more quickly.

 

[Rickb]

The blower will be handy when it's very cold out and when you want to warm up a larger area more quickly.

I agree. I did not think I would use mine, but I use it probably 30-50% of the time. I do have it set to low tho so you can't really hear it but it makes a huge difference.

 

[stevesstove]

Thanks for the input, I hope it works well, it was a pretty pricey little fan!!

Question: I have my stone all the way up the wall now and I am going to attach the inner portion of the wall thimble. It has four bent tabs that I assume are just supposed to be bent over inside the wall so it doesn't slide out. My hole is pretty tight and bending them over will be pretty tough. can I just use a tapcon screw on each side instead. The black trim collar will cover the screws so I'm thinking that would be more secure than just bending the tabs?
The stone I used was thick in some spots so the thimble sleeves don't over lap more than probably a half inch. I don't want them sliding apart for any reason. Any input?

thanks for the help....picking up my stove tonight!

 

[stevesstove]

Second Question: if I set the stove up like the pic below, how do I figure out what length pipe I need to get the stove to set the correct distance away from the wall? would I just buy two adjustable length double wall black pipes to make it work ? My double wall pipe sticks in the room almost 7" without the stove pipe adapter put on yet...If that makes sense..

Do the two 45's make a big impact, rather than just going straight up with a 90? I know the less of a harsh angle the better, but it sure would be a lot easier for me to figure out what length of pipe to get!! Thanks for the help.

 

[begreen]

It does make a difference, but you can try it with a 90º and see how it works. If there is smoke spillage then switch to 2 45s. The stove pipe mfgs. typically have offset charts in their catalogs. If you are using double-wall stove pipe then the upper 45 can come right off the class A pipe sticking out of the wall. Just one adjustable length may work once you know the offset from the chart.

 

[stevesstove]

Ok Thanks begreen. I will look for some offset charts and see how it will land. Did you see the question above about the thimble? Does that make sense?

 

[begreen]

I have never seen the H&C black thimble but I think as long as the shielding is continuous that the way the flanges are anchored is probably adaptable. Have you called H&C support? (800) 433-6341

 

[stevesstove]

I called the tech support and they were really helpful. They said it was a good idea to fasten with the screws to the stone if I couldn't bend the tabs over sufficiently behind the wall. I'm going to give that a try.
I picked up the stove last night and it looks great, however, I noticed the area where the pipe would connect to the stove wasn't very round at all. They have a weld on the back side of the circle and I am wondering if this would allow any exhaust spillage since it isn't very round.

 

[stevesstove]

Here is the exhaust area. See how where the weld is looks out of round......Is this common?

 

[begreen]

Looks a bit sloppy, but shouldn't affect performance.