Minister of Fire
- Nov 19, 2005
I don’t think those probe temps are accurate, seem low. You will see more much faster accurate cat temps with that AT200.
For sure. I know from the Buck 91 and the Dutchwest that when the cat is glowing in a similar manner, that's 1200* or higher probably.I don’t think those probe temps are accurate, seem low.
Uh-oh, appears I may also be started down the path to becoming "that guy!" 😮 But I cling to the hope that there's still a chance I can reverse course. 😆if I'm not careful I will become that guy
Thinking back, I think if you just remove one of the two shield mounting bolts, the one on the probe hole side, and just loosen the other slightly, you can pivot the shield down and around to get access to the probe hole. Agreed, putting the shield on from scratch, both bolts out, it's a hassle lining everything up. But with one bolt still in, it's pretty easy to get the other bolt started.I'll probably install that probe in the spring when I am done burning. I don't feel like crawling behind the stove and uninstalling the heat shield to get the cat probe in before then.
Really, the Keystone is pretty simple to run using a sure-fire reloading method. But DBoon and I are playing around a bit here, experimenting with different methods to get the cat burning and the plume clean as quickly as possible, then being able to cut the air low without slowing or crashing the cat. He may have some wood that's not as dry as needed for his new cat stove. Me, I guess I'm just a slow learner 😆 I've run the stove off and on for a decade, and I'm still honing my technique for different situations...dense vs. lighter wood species, how I load the stove, and so on.Good lord that is what I call a lot of data for burning wood! I hope my HP coming next month is not going to be so complicated or my wife will kill me.
Another way to get more air under the load and get dense wood burning sooner is to stir down the ashes through the grate in a couple spots. Air will shoot in faster through those cleared spots..I had the ashpan hole half covered so I moved the magnet to get more air coming up under the load; Hopefully that gets the dense woods burning underneath, and gassing sooner/better. I was also thinking that in addition to the Tunnel of Love, I could put some small Maple splits down in the coals, then put the dense wood on top of those--that might get the heavy stuff burning faster since the Maple will be flaming underneath.
Why, did you tell her that she'll be the one hauling in the wood and starting the fires? 😏I hope my HP coming next month is not going to be so complicated or my wife will kill me.
No but she likes uncomplicated especially when I travel on business. Cat stoves I have found it he past to be picky.Why, did you tell her that she'll be the one hauling in the wood and starting the fires? 😏
Yeah, I'm getting a little over the top, for sure. The Keystone is really easy to run, and I'm sure that your PH will be also. My wild card is my really tall chimney (27 feet), and I'm trying to slow the beginning of the burn down so that the stove top doesn't get above 600 degrees F. When it goes above that, I tend to get exhaust blowing through the cat too quickly, and it burns dirtier than it otherwise would.Good lord that is what I call a lot of data for burning wood! I hope my HP coming next month is not going to be so complicated or my wife will kill me.
It sounds crazy, but that is the perfect burn in my situation. It's burning really clean (no smoke) as it's rising from 250 to 400 over a period of a couple of hours, so I can't complain. If its really cold outside, I'd prefer to have more heat, but I love the steadiness of the burn and slowing down the initial burn to keep it slightly less hot at the peak.It appears you might be rushing the bypass closing, and don't have enough wood burning yet to feed it. It was a couple hours before you got to 400 stove top.
Yeah, this was a problem on a couple of burns, but I seemed to have gotten past this now.He may have some wood that's not as dry as needed for his new cat stove.
Yes, I got the magnet over the ash pan hole at times as well. I've put it over the hole when it was below zero outside. That seemed to slow it down a little more, and was helpful. But I've found with my chimney the glass stays cleaner if I just shut the air down to 0.0 and leave the ash pan hole uncovered.Forgot the pic of the ashpan housing magnet previously covering half the grate airfeed hole.
My floor seldom gets above 110. The only thing I can think of in your situation that might contribute to higher temps there is the the in-floor heating..??Woodstock clearance installation instructions (10" from front of hearth) but the wood floors 10-16" in front of the stove got very hot during the peak of the burn. I have since laid a piece of aluminum foil over the wood floors in front of the glass, and that solves the problem (floor cool to touch underneath that foil). Does anyone else have this experience? My previous tube stove would do this as well with really hot burns, despite meeting clearances.
My glass has been staying clearer since I've run a bit more flame in the box lately, after the cat is lit. Not a lot of flame but apparently enough to just have haze. The left side is a little worse, since I had an air leak on the front left vertical seam which I didn't get completely sealed apparently.not going to burn a big flame and send BTUs outside, just to clean off the glass. It clears to some degree when I burn in the next load, and that's good enough for me.Usually the middle third stays pretty clear,
The in-floor heating is not causing it because the radiant heat is off when I am running the wood stove. It's definitely due to the heat coming off the glass of the wood stove. Maybe the floor is only 110 degrees or so - I'll have to put a probe on it and check sometime. I am guessing that since I have such a strong draw from the tall 6" chimney the front of glass gets hotter than it otherwise would. Dunno.My floor seldom gets above 110. The only thing I can think of in your situation that might contribute to higher temps there is the the in-floor heating..??
When you said the floor was getting "very hot," then I felt mine, I thought 'that's just a little warm, to me.'I am guessing that since I have such a strong draw from the tall 6" chimney the front of glass gets hotter than it otherwise would. Dunno.
Yeah, cat is glowing orange, almost all of it.or the cat was absolutely blazing, almost yellow
Yep, sometimes you can see a little flame coming forward from underneath the load, from ashpan hole air. I'd think that puts a little more heat on the bottom of the glass and maybe keeping it clearer...?I've found with my chimney the glass stays cleaner if I just shut the air down to 0.0 and leave the ash pan hole uncovered.
For sure could probably get the air lower, sooner, but erred on the side of caution after overdoing it in the last White Oak burn, and having to open the air back up. I usually burn mixed loads, these are the first all-White Oak loads I've done but I'm more confident now that it's easier to get the White burning than, say, Black Locust.your startup sequence above is pretty similar to mine. Try being even a little more aggressive on slowing down the burn early, especially if you have a nice deep coal bed and are starting with a 250 degree stove top. I've stretched the time to go from 350 to 470 degrees stovetop to two hours or so, and while that reduces the peak temperature and length of peak burn time, it's a great tradeoff. Also, my burn is clean during the whole start up cycle - that cat is doing its job and just chewing through the smoke and the exhaust is nice and clean.