Newbie: choosing a stove model for fireplace install in GA -- considering Jotul F3CB

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theresearcher

New Member
Sep 24, 2022
6
Georgia
Hi all,

I've been lurking a long time and looking for stoves for sale for almost a year now. I'll give as many details as seem relevant; thank you in advance for reading and responding <3

We're in NE Georgia (not mountains) in a ~3000sqft 1960s home. It's fairly rare for temps to get below freezing. There is an existing masonry fireplace with ~20ft chimney (estimated by stove salesperson).

The fireplace is located on the far end of the house in a 24' x 24' x 14' great room. We have recently installed a 72" fan which has been a lifesaver during the summer and we will hope will help tremendously with circulating wood heat during the winter. This room has two sliding glass doors into the back yard, two windows facing the front yard, and two large doorless archways that lead into the dining room (front of house) and kitchen-adjacent book/toy storage/play area (back of the house).

We don't presume to heat the whole house on wood, unfortunately, mainly due to the location of the chimney in relation to the stairs. Stairs are just inside the front door, in the middle of the house, and it seems unlikely that we could manage circulation to the 4 beds and 2 baths upstairs. First and second floors are on *totally separate* HVAC systems (so running a "fan only" setting still wouldn't get heat upstairs, I'm afraid. I would love to be wrong about that, but not counting on it!). We are resigned to daytime wood heat and running on natural gas to take the chill off upstairs at night, and afraid that trying to get something large enough to theoretically heat 3000sqft would render the great room unusable. [The other "wing" opposite the great room is the garage: obviously unheated.]

My husband and I both work from home and our kids are homeschooled. Though we have lots of activities outside the house, at least some if not all of us are here pretty much all the time through the day, and the great room is primarily where the kids and I hang out (or the adjacent toy spillover area).

We would like to be able to heat primarily with wood (as much as possible, per above considerations), but also want to be able to rely on it in power outages, including heating a pot on top if at all possible. We started out in search of an insert, but have almost completely decided against it because of the need for a blower.

I've talked with several dealers in the area and most seem to be pushing Vermont Castings, but I've lurked here long enough to be wary of that brand. We were told by one who came out and measured that we could fit an Encore but not a Dauntless.

The best measurements I've been able to take myself of the fireplace opening is 45" wide at the front, sloping back to 35" wide at the back. The opening height is 29"+, but it's hard to tell for sure working around the existing doors. Depth at the point of the top of the opening is 19" to the back wall. Hearth is 16" deep.

I just saw a Jotul F3CB on craigslist today; my husband says this is the prettiest stove he's ever seen and to be honest I rather agree. I've seen discussion about short burn times and small firebox, but since it's discontinued I haven't been able to find anywhere that says how big the firebox actually is.

We have several woodpiles going around the yard already, including an impressive one already established when we bought the house a year ago. We have continued to split, stack, and tarp whatever we or the power company have had to take down. I don't know the length of most of the splits, but we definitely have 2+year seasoned stuff ready to go.

So that's what I know. Now I have questions ;)

* Is there anything to recommend an insert over a freestanding stove other than wanting that finished look?

*Does anyone know the F3CB firebox size definitively, so I can compare apples to apples with any other options?

* Does it sound like the F3CB will fit? I'm planning on having to find a floor protector, but I've been reading the clearances and poking around with the tape measure and my head is spinning.

* If it will fit to install, will it be big enough for our purposes, fire-wise?

* Any other advice on air circulation specific to our circumstances?

* I asked the seller for inside pictures of the unit, which I will also attach here. Is there anything I should be alarmed about?

* Any general advice on safety/babyproofing? Kids are 7, 5, 2, and just turned 1 today! So, one recent walker, one incurable climber, and lots of running and jumping around.

* If this stove is not to be: what would you recommend instead?? I've even looked at Tractor Supply offerings (Drolet, recommended here in the pre-EPA2020 times, have been non-existent around here), but it's still a really expensive undertaking, even with a cheap stove! I do want to do it right and make it last (though I am also highly committed to paying as little as possible for anything ;) )

I appreciate this forum so much!! I've already learned an incredible amount here, and I'm so grateful in advance for any input.

I'm attaching pictures of the front of the house and the fireplace for reference as well.

Here's the listing: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/app/d/atlanta-jotul-wood-stove/7537717233.html

IMG_20220924_180738643_HDR.jpg IMG_20220924_184144_01.jpg IMG_20220924_184125_01.jpg IMG_20220924_184112_01.jpg IMG_20220924_184027_01.jpg IMG_20220924_184028_01.jpg IMG_20220924_180526905_HDR.jpg front of house.jpg
 
I think the F3CB is about 1.3 cu ft., though in actual use its more like 1.1 cu ft.

That is an unusual fireplace. It appears to be a zero clearance which may prohibit a stove install. What is unusual is that it appears to have a secondary combustion rack. Do you know the make and model of the fireplace?
 
As fellow southerner you don’t want anything that small. They look great yes. And if I could get one for 400$ or less I would buy it myself.

I have the next size up at 1.7 cu ft. It heats 2000 sq ft down to lows in the upper twenties but I have to reload at 11 pm and again at 4 am.


I can’t see what @begreen saw about it being a pre fab. Can you take a picture inside the fireplace. I

Plan on an insulated liner and a blockoff plate. Check out the T5 insert from pacific energy. Availability this is really tight. So the F3 may be your best bet. I also have Drolet 1800i insert. It’s a solid heating unit but not a looker but it’s cheap. Cheapest route would be Costco for a Drolet 1600i if it’s still available.

The pics from the inside of the stove look ok. Make sure if you get it to check both door gaskets.
 
Thanks, @begreen! I'm embarrassed to post pictures because we didn't clean it when we finished having fires last winter... and I opened the doors yesterday to see evidence of a nope rope visit, so we're going to add some mesh to the vents 😬

But it's just brick inside. Pretty sure it's not a prefab.

IMG_20220925_090942240_HDR.jpg IMG_20220925_091014401.jpg IMG_20220925_091058720.jpg
 
As fellow southerner you don’t want anything that small. They look great yes. And if I could get one for 400$ or less I would buy it myself.

I have the next size up at 1.7 cu ft. It heats 2000 sq ft down to lows in the upper twenties but I have to reload at 11 pm and again at 4 am.


I can’t see what @begreen saw about it being a pre fab. Can you take a picture inside the fireplace. I

Plan on an insulated liner and a blockoff plate. Check out the T5 insert from pacific energy. Availability this is really tight. So the F3 may be your best bet. I also have Drolet 1800i insert. It’s a solid heating unit but not a looker but it’s cheap. Cheapest route would be Costco for a Drolet 1600i if it’s still available.

The pics from the inside of the stove look ok. Make sure if you get it to check both door gaskets.
Thank you!!

Your Jotul is gorgeous! I was really hoping the F3 would work, but sort of afraid it might be too small.

Fireplace pictures are posted below.
 
I think those pics are the inside of the F3CB not the fireplace? I like the looks of the F3 CB as well but it’s just too small for what you want to do imho. Do you have a Jotul dealer near you? Take a look at the Jotul F45, it has a rear vent and short leg option that may fit your fireplace nicely. Woodstock Soapstone also has some nice rear vent stoves that could work.
 
Thank you!!

Your Jotul is gorgeous! I was really hoping the F3 would work, but sort of afraid it might be too small.

Fireplace pictures are posted below.
Consider it a room and one adjoining space heater.
I really wanted the bigger F500 when I got mine in 2018 but it didn’t come in white. Bigger was the right call but I have gotten on fine. Not saying 1.3 cu ft will or won’t work for you. 24/7 wood heating in the south is possible it just doesn’t save much money. I’m estimating I save 150$ a year. That’s it. We have 16seer heatpump that does fine down to freezing heat output and cost. I can burn two full cords of soft wood a season but if I run the heatpump any time it’s 45 or above it doesn’t cost that much and I save 3/4 of a cord. It’s not the wood it’s the time it takes to process.

Cooking on top is way over rated. Gas grill and a Dutch oven is all you need. The insert blower is fine. I need a blower with my stove because it sets so far back. You probably will too. All inserts are safe to run without blower they just move more heat. With an insert you can insulate behind the insert to keep heat from escaping to the brick chimney and outdoors.
As for kids we have 5. 4 year olds first words were “hot-hot” having the resided hearth is nice as it keeps running kids away. Only issues were intentional “what happens to this if I touch it to a hot stove. The freestanding fireplace screens make a good shield too. I’m the only one that’s gotten burned.

Unsolicited advice time. Get the cheapest wood burner you can. Air seal and insulate. Then add a mini split if you need more capacity (heating and cooling ) and get a dehumidifier. Stove Availability is really really tight this year. It would not be too difficult to swap out the F3 to something new in the future. Build a wood shed now. Get a moisture meter and an Auber at200. With all those kids and jobs you will get sidetracked after a reload and will forget to turn the stove down. The AT200 gives you a nice loud reminder that you forgot and the 5 year old can’t can be taught what to do when it goes off. You are home to tend a need little stove. It will get tiresome but really it’s just a week at a time. Then it warms up. Three loads a day might be a normal thing until it’s cold. Then it’s every 3 hours or just turn in the heat.
 
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Cooking on top is way over rated. Gas grill and a Dutch oven is all you need.
Indeed. Listen to those in hurricane country for how to cook when the power is out. This has always been my preparation as well; enough propane bottles to last three weeks.
As for kids we have 5. 4 year olds first words were “hot-hot” having the resided hearth is nice as it keeps running kids away. Only issues were intentional “what happens to this if I touch it to a hot stove.
All kids are experimental scientists 🧐
Unsolicited advice time. Get the cheapest wood burner you can. Air seal and insulate. Then add a mini split if you need more capacity (heating and cooling ) and get a dehumidifier. Stove Availability is really really tight this year. It would not be too difficult to swap out the F3 to something new in the future. Build a wood shed now. Get a moisture meter and an Auber at200. With all those kids and jobs you will get sidetracked after a reload and will forget to turn the stove down. The AT200 gives you a nice loud reminder that you forgot and the 5 year old can’t be taught what to do when it goes off. You are home to tend a need little stove. It will get tiresome but really it’s just a week at a time. Then it warms up. Three loads a day might be a normal thing until it’s cold. Then it’s every 3 hours or just turn in the heat.
All good advice. Heat you don't need doesn't cost anything.
Without dry wood as confirmed by a moisture meter (know how to operate it properly; it seems really simple and it is, but we still see MANY folks doing it wrong and thinking their wood is good) is imperative for an enjoyable burning. Otherwise your fire will smoke, go out, be a pain to maintain, and won't provide significant heat. Why? Boiling off water takes a LOT of energy.
 
I think those pics are the inside of the F3CB not the fireplace? I like the looks of the F3 CB as well but it’s just too small for what you want to do imho. Do you have a Jotul dealer near you? Take a look at the Jotul F45, it has a rear vent and short leg option that may fit your fireplace nicely. Woodstock Soapstone also has some nice rear vent stoves that could work.
Yes, original interior pics were the F3CB :)

All the dealers in the state I've spoken to who are nominal Jotul reps have said they haven't been able to get them recently. One even specifically mentioned they'd be willing to do an install (for $500 premium in addition to regular materials/labor costs) but if I wanted a Jotul I'd have to find one used...

I was just asking very generally about everything they carried, price, stock, etc. and that was his take. I'm afraid a new one isn't in the budget anyway :(
 
Yes, original interior pics were the F3CB :)

All the dealers in the state I've spoken to who are nominal Jotul reps have said they haven't been able to get them recently. One even specifically mentioned they'd be willing to do an install (for $500 premium in addition to regular materials/labor costs) but if I wanted a Jotul I'd have to find one used...

I was just asking very generally about everything they carried, price, stock, etc. and that was his take. I'm afraid a new one isn't in the budget anyway :(
After shopping for at least 2 years this is hands down the best deal you can find. It’s a bit smaller than my 1800i but it’s in stock add an insulation wrap for 200-400. Don’t your height and have not checked prices. It can be a DIY project if you are handy.

 
Consider it a room and one adjoining space heater.
I really wanted the bigger F500 when I got mine in 2018 but it didn’t come in white. Bigger was the right call but I have gotten on fine. Not saying 1.3 cu ft will or won’t work for you. 24/7 wood heating in the south is possible it just doesn’t save much money. I’m estimating I save 150$ a year. That’s it. We have 16seer heatpump that does fine down to freezing heat output and cost. I can burn two full cords of soft wood a season but if I run the heatpump any time it’s 45 or above it doesn’t cost that much and I save 3/4 of a cord. It’s not the wood it’s the time it takes to process.

Cooking on top is way over rated. Gas grill and a Dutch oven is all you need. The insert blower is fine. I need a blower with my stove because it sets so far back. You probably will too. All inserts are safe to run without blower they just move more heat. With an insert you can insulate behind the insert to keep heat from escaping to the brick chimney and outdoors.
As for kids we have 5. 4 year olds first words were “hot-hot” having the resided hearth is nice as it keeps running kids away. Only issues were intentional “what happens to this if I touch it to a hot stove. The freestanding fireplace screens make a good shield too. I’m the only one that’s gotten burned.

Unsolicited advice time. Get the cheapest wood burner you can. Air seal and insulate. Then add a mini split if you need more capacity (heating and cooling ) and get a dehumidifier. Stove Availability is really really tight this year. It would not be too difficult to swap out the F3 to something new in the future. Build a wood shed now. Get a moisture meter and an Auber at200. With all those kids and jobs you will get sidetracked after a reload and will forget to turn the stove down. The AT200 gives you a nice loud reminder that you forgot and the 5 year old can’t can be taught what to do when it goes off. You are home to tend a need little stove. It will get tiresome but really it’s just a week at a time. Then it warms up. Three loads a day might be a normal thing until it’s cold. Then it’s every 3 hours or just turn in the heat.
Wow, thank you!!!

So much good stuff here, we'll definitely take it to heart.

It's really good to know your cost savings. Primarily, my husband just loves building fires and had one going in the fireplace every night last winter, and I want to make all that effort and fire work for us instead of going straight up the chimney. Better off knowing up front the cost savings will be minimal, though, so we can do it for fun as long as it's fun and not feel guilty turning on the heater if it's too much to deal with any given day. This also reinforces my determination to not pay $5k+ for a VC when the cost savings aren't going to make up the purchase price.

Does the AT200 still apply with an insert? I haven't done as much looking into them since originally deciding to go a different direction, and I'm not as familiar with the process required to keep them running for a long burn efficiently.
After shopping for at least 2 years this is hands down the best deal you can find. It’s a bit smaller than my 1800i but it’s in stock add an insulation wrap for 200-400. Don’t your height and have not checked prices. It can be a DIY project if you are handy.

I saw that product listing while searching after your last suggestion to try Costco! I'm seeing the 1800i at several online retailers in the same $1800 range and the google results say free shipping. Several places appear to have the 1800i plus install kit for ~$2k ... haven't checked each one to make sure they're actually in stock yet though.

But, PLOT TWIST. The same guy from craigslist is cleaning/painting a Century CW2500i and will be ready to sell within a couple weeks. It has a new surround, but I don't know the price yet.

I've read so much, but I just want to ask to be sure: the 1800i and 2500i are equivalent/same, correct? Anything particular to look out for with those brands when buying used?

Thanks again, and again. Your input is invaluable.
 
Indeed. Listen to those in hurricane country for how to cook when the power is out. This has always been my preparation as well; enough propane bottles to last three weeks.

All kids are experimental scientists 🧐

All good advice. Heat you don't need doesn't cost anything.
Without dry wood as confirmed by a moisture meter (know how to operate it properly; it seems really simple and it is, but we still see MANY folks doing it wrong and thinking their wood is good) is imperative for an enjoyable burning. Otherwise your fire will smoke, go out, be a pain to maintain, and won't provide significant heat. Why? Boiling off water takes a LOT of energy.
Thank you!!

How many propane tanks would you plan on for three weeks? We have a few sitting around; probably need to make sure they're all filled.

Now I'm down an additional rabbit hold on moisture meters... silly me to think I'd just order the first one that popped up, lol! I'm guessing with pins is better for firewood, since internal readings are required and holes don't matter?

My philosophy with all purchases is to pay as little as necessary to get the job done well; do you have a recommendation on a moisture meter you like?
 
I have the mmd4e from general tools. Works well for me.

Regarding propane, it depends on your family size, cooking habits and frequency etc. No way to advise. I have 3. Two filled, one on the BBQ.
 
Thank you!!

How many propane tanks would you plan on for three weeks? We have a few sitting around; probably need to make sure they're all filled.

Now I'm down an additional rabbit hold on moisture meters... silly me to think I'd just order the first one that popped up, lol! I'm guessing with pins is better for firewood, since internal readings are required and holes don't matter?

My philosophy with all purchases is to pay as little as necessary to get the job done well; do you have a recommendation on a moisture meter you like?
Here’s the thing about natural disasters. If you have time 48 hours is enough time to plan an evacuation. More kids and pets you have the harder it is to to ride it out. Recommendations are 4-5 gallons per person per day. Do that math. I was only able to get 35 gallons. We evacuated for 16 days. It’s easier to evacuate than plan for 3 weeks off grid. Just think about all the food!

As for the regency I think it’s higher end product than the Drolet. I can’t remember the specs on the unit.

Moisture meter Pins are best. Cheap is fine.
The AT200 has a washer or a flue probe that you drill a hole in the pipe or appliance adapter and insert. Either one is fine for an insert. Probe responds way faster.
 
And how have we gotten this far with out addressing the SNAKE in the room?!!!

How long was it?
 
Hi all,

I've been lurking a long time and looking for stoves for sale for almost a year now. I'll give as many details as seem relevant; thank you in advance for reading and responding <3

We're in NE Georgia (not mountains) in a ~3000sqft 1960s home. It's fairly rare for temps to get below freezing. There is an existing masonry fireplace with ~20ft chimney (estimated by stove salesperson).

The fireplace is located on the far end of the house in a 24' x 24' x 14' great room. We have recently installed a 72" fan which has been a lifesaver during the summer and we will hope will help tremendously with circulating wood heat during the winter. This room has two sliding glass doors into the back yard, two windows facing the front yard, and two large doorless archways that lead into the dining room (front of house) and kitchen-adjacent book/toy storage/play area (back of the house).

We don't presume to heat the whole house on wood, unfortunately, mainly due to the location of the chimney in relation to the stairs. Stairs are just inside the front door, in the middle of the house, and it seems unlikely that we could manage circulation to the 4 beds and 2 baths upstairs. First and second floors are on *totally separate* HVAC systems (so running a "fan only" setting still wouldn't get heat upstairs, I'm afraid. I would love to be wrong about that, but not counting on it!). We are resigned to daytime wood heat and running on natural gas to take the chill off upstairs at night, and afraid that trying to get something large enough to theoretically heat 3000sqft would render the great room unusable. [The other "wing" opposite the great room is the garage: obviously unheated.]

My husband and I both work from home and our kids are homeschooled. Though we have lots of activities outside the house, at least some if not all of us are here pretty much all the time through the day, and the great room is primarily where the kids and I hang out (or the adjacent toy spillover area).

We would like to be able to heat primarily with wood (as much as possible, per above considerations), but also want to be able to rely on it in power outages, including heating a pot on top if at all possible. We started out in search of an insert, but have almost completely decided against it because of the need for a blower.

I've talked with several dealers in the area and most seem to be pushing Vermont Castings, but I've lurked here long enough to be wary of that brand. We were told by one who came out and measured that we could fit an Encore but not a Dauntless.

The best measurements I've been able to take myself of the fireplace opening is 45" wide at the front, sloping back to 35" wide at the back. The opening height is 29"+, but it's hard to tell for sure working around the existing doors. Depth at the point of the top of the opening is 19" to the back wall. Hearth is 16" deep.

I just saw a Jotul F3CB on craigslist today; my husband says this is the prettiest stove he's ever seen and to be honest I rather agree. I've seen discussion about short burn times and small firebox, but since it's discontinued I haven't been able to find anywhere that says how big the firebox actually is.

We have several woodpiles going around the yard already, including an impressive one already established when we bought the house a year ago. We have continued to split, stack, and tarp whatever we or the power company have had to take down. I don't know the length of most of the splits, but we definitely have 2+year seasoned stuff ready to go.

So that's what I know. Now I have questions ;)

* Is there anything to recommend an insert over a freestanding stove other than wanting that finished look?

*Does anyone know the F3CB firebox size definitively, so I can compare apples to apples with any other options?

* Does it sound like the F3CB will fit? I'm planning on having to find a floor protector, but I've been reading the clearances and poking around with the tape measure and my head is spinning.

* If it will fit to install, will it be big enough for our purposes, fire-wise?

* Any other advice on air circulation specific to our circumstances?

* I asked the seller for inside pictures of the unit, which I will also attach here. Is there anything I should be alarmed about?

* Any general advice on safety/babyproofing? Kids are 7, 5, 2, and just turned 1 today! So, one recent walker, one incurable climber, and lots of running and jumping around.

* If this stove is not to be: what would you recommend instead?? I've even looked at Tractor Supply offerings (Drolet, recommended here in the pre-EPA2020 times, have been non-existent around here), but it's still a really expensive undertaking, even with a cheap stove! I do want to do it right and make it last (though I am also highly committed to paying as little as possible for anything ;) )

I appreciate this forum so much!! I've already learned an incredible amount here, and I'm so grateful in advance for any input.

I'm attaching pictures of the front of the house and the fireplace for reference as well.

Here's the listing: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/app/d/atlanta-jotul-wood-stove/7537717233.html

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So many coincidences… I have an refurbished F3CB sitting on my porch that I need to install at my camp near here in southern Maine. It’s going to be a little underpowered heating 1300 square feet there. For our 2800-square foot HQ we replaced an oil burner with an automated wood pellet boiler from Maine Energy Systems. And for our very similar-looking fireplace we got a Regency 2450i (non-catalytic) insert. With the blower on low, or off during the overnights, the boiler doesn’t turn on except for early in the morning on very cold nights.