newbie, new construction, diy capable...

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nicb2680

New Member
Jan 8, 2019
15
South Carolina
In the process of building a new home and a wood burning stove is in the mix. Purchasing the Shelburne due to size limitations. I have read a ton of threads, and read through countless manuals about installs. I will be doing a wall pass through, into a chase.

What is the ideal set up for this stove. I'm thinking of going up 3.5-4.5ft and installing a 90, and then exiting the room. ( 1.5ft or so horizontal run). I plan on double wall, vertis stove pipe and chimney. Double wall is strictly for closer clearances to unprotected surfaces. I've read the max chimney height for this stove is 30ft. I'm going to be very close to 30ft with the chimney. Does the stovepipe need to be included in that measurement? ( Some stove manuals I've seen have drawings with ideal lengths/max lengths of stovepipe listed as well, however the Shelburne does not. I'm in South Carolina, stove dealers in the area just seem to be salesman, haven't seemed very knowledgeable about anything. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
 
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If this is new construction try to figure out a way to vent the stove straight up. It will cost less and perform better. The stove will work best with a flue system between 16 to 25' tall. Running it outside via two 90º turns will reduce draft and may need to be compensated for by increasing chimney height.
 
If this is new construction try to figure out a way to vent the stove straight up. It will cost less and perform better. The stove will work best with a flue system between 16 to 25' tall. Running it outside via two 90º turns will reduce draft and may need to be compensated for by increasing chimney height.
Understood. Bedroom above stove location, only route is out and up. I'm not opposed to coming out of the back of the stove, but I'm thinking that I will be in a tight spot if I ever replace the stove with a bigger unit in the future. I don't foresee this, but I don't want to put myself in a bind, just in case.
 
That's not uncommon. See if room layout or stove location can be adjusted. Our livingroom stove vents straight up with the chimney chased in a closet.
 
That's not uncommon. See if room layout or stove location can be adjusted. Our livingroom stove vents straight up with the chimney chased in a closet.
I wish I would have found this site much sooner. House is going up as we speak. Really didn't want to penetrate the roof, that's another reason for this route. A buddy has a similar set up, has no issues. Assume I won't have any, but I didn't realize stoves were so picky, nor the science part of all of it.
 
What you are proposing should work, but with the aforementioned caveats.
https://woodheat.org/all-about-chimneys.html
Good deal. I’ve been doing some thinking....what if I were to do an alcove? The plans have a slab for a real masonry chimney, just in case we decide to go that route. The drawings show a 5ft wide by 1.25ft deep chimney. What if I were to extend the area of the room, just in that little pocket? I don’t see it changing anything structurally, just run a header across the span. We would still use stone instead of brick and just arch it at the 1st floor ceiling height, just close it flat across. Would this work?
 
Good deal. I’ve been doing some thinking....what if I were to do an alcove? The plans have a slab for a real masonry chimney, just in case we decide to go that route. The drawings show a 5ft wide by 1.25ft deep chimney. What if I were to extend the area of the room, just in that little pocket? I don’t see it changing anything structurally, just run a header across the span. We would still use stone instead of brick and just arch it at the 1st floor ceiling height, just close it flat across. Would this work?
It would work but usually alcove clearances are different than normal clearances. So be sure you use the right ones.
 
Yes, the Shelburne is a good alcove stove as long as alcove clearances are followed. Would this have a metal chimney in a chase? You will get best output if the arch does not form a big dam across the front that might block convection.
 
Yes, the Shelburne is a good alcove stove as long as alcove clearances are followed. Would this have a metal chimney in a chase? You will get best output if the arch does not form a big dam across the front that might block convection.
Good deal. I will have to look up clearance requirements for an alcove. Yes, I would still do a chase/pipe.
 
Good deal. I will have to look up clearance requirements for an alcove. Yes, I would still do a chase/pipe.
This would allow for a straight up chimney. If you want some future flexibility make the alcove wider than the minimum (at least 48") and have an 84" ceiling.
 
I'm not a builder. It sounds ok, but pay attention to sealing, firestop, and potential condensation traps that could cause rot or mold. Don't go cheap on the top cap for the chase. Use stainless to keep it maintenance free.
 
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I'm not a builder. It sounds ok, but pay attention to sealing, firestop, and potential condensation traps that could cause rot or mold. Don't go cheap on the top cap for the chase. Use stainless to keep it maintenance free.
Will do. I’ve been finding out that there isn’t much that’s cheap about wanting to burn. Thank you for the advice. This has to be right, no reason to skimp.
 
Will do. I’ve been finding out that there isn’t much that’s cheap about wanting to burn. Thank you for the advice. This has to be right, no reason to skimp.
I have been looking at alcove set ups for awhile. I’ve been trying to read up on this type of installation, but the little details I’m having trouble finding. I don’t see a tee in the set up, nor have I read about using a tee in instructions...how is the flue cleaned without a tee? Lots of questions, I know. Not much knowledge seems to be in my area. Spoke with the inspector, he’s looking for an install per manufacturers instructions.
 
I have been looking at alcove set ups for awhile. I’ve been trying to read up on this type of installation, but the little details I’m having trouble finding. I don’t see a tee in the set up, nor have I read about using a tee in instructions...how is the flue cleaned without a tee? Lots of questions, I know. Not much knowledge seems to be in my area. Spoke with the inspector, he’s looking for an install per manufacturers instructions.
Most stoves are cleaned up through the stove when there is no tee. It is much easier and cleaner in most cases.

And yes the inspector should be looking for an install per manufacturers instructions. That is what is required.
 
Most stoves are cleaned up through the stove when there is no tee. It is much easier and cleaner in most cases.

And yes the inspector should be looking for an install per manufacturers instructions. That is what is required.
Good to know...does the through the ceiling connection have to be a certain type? May go brick or stone, or possibly just Sheetrock up top.
 
Good to know...does the through the ceiling connection have to be a certain type? May go brick or stone, or possibly just Sheetrock up top.
Not sure what you mean. It needs to be installed to stove and chimney manufacturer specifications.
 
Not sure what you mean. It needs to be installed to stove and chimney manufacturer specifications.
I understand that it needs to be code. Examples I see are through ceiling to attic, then roof. So I’m assuming it’s pretty much like a wall thimble. Does it need a fire stop for the application since it will be going straight up into the chase from the stove?
 
I understand that it needs to be code. Examples I see are through ceiling to attic, then roof. So I’m assuming it’s pretty much like a wall thimble. Does it need a fire stop for the application since it will be going straight up into the chase from the stove?
You need to follow the chimney manufacturers instructions and use all of the proper components. Typically it will be a support box at the bottom then brackets supporting and stabalizing the chimney every 8'. Firestops at every floor etc. But it will vary by manufacturer.
 
You need to follow the chimney manufacturers instructions and use all of the proper components. Typically it will be a support box at the bottom then brackets supporting and stabalizing the chimney every 8'. Firestops at every floor etc. But it will vary by manufacturer.
Understand. Just making sure I am understanding correctly. Thank you
 
Would I be fine to insulate the chase all the way up in the 2x4 cavity? In other words, unfinished plywood/insulation/stone outer
Insulate with Roxul, it will keep that space around the pipe warm and improve draft.
 
I have a through the wall thimble and never had an issue. If you are planning on cleaning it yourself get a soot eater. Inside I would do a couple 45* elbows instead of 1 90*. I was adding an addition to the current house and incorporated the stove but had planned on doing a through wall install as I didn't want a bulk head/alcove upstairs.

I didn't like the idea of a chimney running through my house in case of a leak or a chimney fire. If I were to have a chimney fire I can just grab my hose and spray the outside of the pipe to keep it cool until the fire department shows up that is something you can't do when it is inside a wall. Also cleaning is super simple and doesn't make a mess in the house just take off the bottom of the thimble and start cleaning.

For me there were many more pros to having an exterior chimney vs an interior. If you pay attention when installing and add an extra 3' of chimney than what is required to make up for that 90* bend you should have plenty of draft.