Newbie... Questions on temperature

[diverscale]

If you were reading 450º on double-wall the flue was extremely hot. A probe thermometer will help a lot.

One is on the way home, will install it about 24'' above stovetop (18 in is my manual damper). Will be sure to monitor it as suggested.

 

[begreen]

The high flue temp reinforces what I posted earlier. Start closing down the air sooner. With a probe thermometer this will be around 600º (probe temp) with the stove pipe damper open.

 

[diverscale]

Thanks again to all for the flue probe, really helps in controlling the stove temperature and correct combustion. Installed it at 22'', my first fire with it and already helped me greatly to know when to turn down the damper.

 

[begreen]

Good deal. I think you will find you have more control and will get longer burns too. Try to keep the flue temp from peaking over 800F.

 

[Mark8]

When you have a freestanding stove you have access to install these probes and monitor stove top temps, how do you do this with an insert where everything is hidden?

 

[diverscale]

When you have a freestanding stove you have access to install these probes and monitor stove top temps, how do you do this with an insert where everything is hidden?

I'd close the damper fully, and have a close look at the secondary flames. if they extinguish, you pushed down too much, quickly open the damper a bit and look for a few minutes if they fire back on.

Pretty cold here, I am at my third fire with the flue thermo, and I can tell that I was turning the fire down too late, losing heat through the chimney. If I stay in the correct flue temp zone, even if my damper narrowly opened, I observed that I always have healthy secondary flames before the wood gasses empty out.

 

[Nigel459]

Thanks again to all for the flue probe, really helps in controlling the stove temperature and correct combustion. Installed it at 22'', my first fire with it and already helped me greatly to know when to turn down the damper.

That's great. I have been dialling in a new stove for the cabin and have learning to read the signals and finding that sweet spot too.

On that, don't want to derail but hopefully just adding to the topic at hand, when I load up that stove (tube-Scan 10) with dry wood, which isn't a large box at ~1.5cf, usually two 5" splits on the bottom and one or two 4" or smaller, it can start to get away from me well before the flue probe reads 400. The secondaries quickly go to blowtorch mode which can often produce a glowing of one tube and part of the vermiculite baffle.

My question is: when dialling it down before too much charring to avoid blast furnace etc., does the temp really matter as long as there are healthy secondaries? I know I've read that how the fire looks is more important than temps, and my glass is clean and no smoke out the chimney, but sometimes my flue temps (Condar probe, 20" up) barely max out at 400-450 with a healthy fire and rolling secondaries--does that sound ok?

Thanks

 

[black smoke signals]

Yes, this is when a wood furnace can be a more practical alternative.

Woody Begreen both of you suggested a wood furnace for basement install. Please educate us why will a wood furnace in a basement operate better than a wood stove in a basement? Does the furnace handle negative pressure better? Educate me please thanks

 

[begreen]

A furnace has forced convection which can be ducted. With a ducted system there can be a return that pulls air from the floors above and supply runs that distribute heated air where it's needed. This is especially helpful houses like the typical ranch and colonials with many small rooms closed off by doors. The losses are much less, particularly in an uninsulated basement and especially if the duct runs are insulated.