Oil flush

[Sean McGillicuddy]

When I had my 1978-1/2 f-250 it was recommended then, to add a quart of mystery oil and bring it up to temp before draining the oil.
Do any one do something like this to say a 8h Briggs engine or such ?

 

[ericm979]

I just change the oil yearly and clean the air filter. No mystery products needed.

 

[Vg3200p]

When I had my 1978-1/2 f-250 it was recommended then, to add a quart of mystery oil and bring it up to temp before draining the oil.
Do any one do something like this to say a 8h Briggs engine or such ?

Are you wanting to do this because of sludge or buildup in the oil? If your not running a synthetic oil. I definitely would. And maybe change more often to clean it up slowly

 

[Ashful]

Never heard the Marvel Mystery oil trick, will it provide sufficient lube to prevent damage, while bringing up to temp?

I do remember they used to make sludge remover additives, that you'd add to the old oil to run a short time before changing for fresh.

Amazon product ASIN B001CZM8EI

 

[ABMax24]

Add half a cup of diesel to the oil, warm up, and drain.

All these products are solvents that dissolve sludge in the engine and allow it to drain with the oil, diesel is cheaper than a $15 can of mystery oil.

Keep in mind that adding diesel, or any solvent, greatly decreases the viscosity and film strength of engine oil, possibly to the point of engine damage.

I never flush my engines. Regular oil changes with any modern oil is enough to keep sludge from forming.

 

[Ashful]

I never flush my engines. Regular oil changes with any modern oil is enough to keep sludge from forming.

Same, but I've also inherited my share of badly-maintained equipment over the years, especially when I was young and couldn't afford better. I still have one Tecumseh-powered Ariens snowblower with the end of the dipstick permanently blackened from very old and overheated oil. I asked the original owner when he last changed the oil, and he indicated "never". It was more than 10 years old, when I got it, and he had a big driveway he maintained solely with that machine.

My approach was to just do yearly changes with a good oil, knowing I put less than 10 hours per year on it. Figured that eventually it'd wash anything old and nasty out, but one could argue that I should've done something to speed the process, lest some unknown clogged bearing oiler cause failure before my method had a chance to (slowly) work.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

Figured that eventually it'd wash anything old and nasty out, but one could argue that I should've done something to speed the process, lest some unknown clogged bearing oiler cause failure before my method had a chance to (slowly) work.

My thinking as well

 

[Woodsplitter67]

No need to do this at all.. the quality of engine oil and filters have come along way since then. Chang the oil regularly and your fine.. adding that is a solvent.. not a great idea.. not good for the motor.... run the motor get it nice and hot.. drain it right away and everything will come right out

 

[Isaac Carlson]

The manual for my john deere tractor says to drain the oil, refill with kerosene, idle for 20 minutes, and drain. I did it once when I first got it just to flush it out.

 

[Ashful]

The manual for my john deere tractor says to drain the oil, refill with kerosene, idle for 20 minutes, and drain. I did it once when I first got it just to flush it out.

What year and model Deere? Never seen that in any of my Yanmar-powered Deere manuals, not that I couldn't have missed it.

 

[moresnow]

The manual for my john deere tractor says to drain the oil, refill with kerosene, idle for 20 minutes, and drain. I did it once when I first got it just to flush it out.

Sounds like an old A or B series Perhaps? We had a B on a corn auger years ago. Fire it up by pulling it around the yard and run er wfo until the ex-manifold and straight pipe were bright orange. That was it's yearly "de-cobbing" procedure! Purred perfectly after that..... How things have changed.

 

[clux]

What year and model Deere? Never seen that in any of my Yanmar-powered Deere manuals, not that I couldn't have missed it.

All the 2 cylinder Johnnypoppers recommended doing that once a year.
As mentioned earlier, oil and it's additive package is much better these days.
I'd definitely not recommend do this to your Yanmar.

 

[brenndatomu]

If your not running a synthetic oil. I definitely would

I wouldn't...it'll make an old motor like that leak like a screen door, if it doesn't already!

Sounds like an old A or B series Perhaps?

That's what I was thinking too...no way I'd do that on a modern engine...that I wanted to keep!

 

[Isaac Carlson]

It's a 1947 M

 

[clux]

It's a 1947 M

I had a 420 utility that was about 10 years newer than that, raked hay and worked the arena and even baled hay with it one year. Good little tractor.

 

[Vg3200p]

I wouldn't...it'll make an old motor like that leak like a screen door, if it doesn't already!

That's what I was thinking too...no way I'd do that on a modern engine...that I wanted to keep!

8hp air cooled briggs I would run the synthetic for the high temps. All my air cooled get synthetic 20w50 from day one.

 

[Highbeam]

I own a 2007 Toyota 4 cylinder with an engine know to burn oil because these tiny little holes in the pistons clog up behind the oil control ring. The solution is one of these oil flush type products. Seems the go to is seafoam per the directions which is 300 miles and then change the oil.

I haven’t had the nerve to try it.

The standard oil is 5-20 synthetic.

 

[Vg3200p]

I own a 2007 Toyota 4 cylinder with an engine know to burn oil because these tiny little holes in the pistons clog up behind the oil control ring. The solution is one of these oil flush type products. Seems the go to is seafoam per the directions which is 300 miles and then change the oil.

I haven’t had the nerve to try it.

The standard oil is 5-20 synthetic.

Dunno if you have ever been on bitog.com but there are many write ups about this exact engine. Lots of knowledge on that website that could help you out

 

[salecker]

I wouldn't...it'll make an old motor like that leak like a screen door, if it doesn't already!

That's what I was thinking too...no way I'd do that on a modern engine...that I wanted to keep!

i use synthetic in old equipment all the time with no extra leak issues

 

[Ashful]

i use synthetic in old equipment all the time with no extra leak issues

Ditto, but brennda was responding to running kerosene in the crank case, not synthetic.

 

[Vg3200p]

When synthetic first started being used it did cause leaks on old gaskets. Most additive packages have been greatly improved. So bennendau worry used to be a reality. It's just not the case with modern oils

 

[clux]

If you break down engine sludge, and engine sludge is what's keeping your seals/gaskets from leaking, You're going to think it "caused" leaks when what it actually did was clean your engine and expose leaks that were already there.
Modern oils are so good at keep sludge down we don't see this phenomenon much anymore.

 

[duramaxman05]

Add half a cup of diesel to the oil, warm up, and drain.

All these products are solvents that dissolve sludge in the engine and allow it to drain with the oil, diesel is cheaper than a $15 can of mystery oil.

Keep in mind that adding diesel, or any solvent, greatly decreases the viscosity and film strength of engine oil, possibly to the point of engine damage.

I never flush my engines. Regular oil changes with any modern oil is enough to keep sludge from forming.

I seen a push mower with a briggs on at lowes and it said never change the oil, just add.

 

[clux]

I seen a push mower with a briggs on at lowes and it said never change the oil, just add.

New Case tractors come filled with synthetic and have a 600 hour OCI.

 

[duramaxman05]

New Case tractors come filled with synthetic and have a 600 hour OCI.

I think our john deere 3033r said 400hr or 1 year for service. That is even with its first service. Seems crazy to me. I'm still old school.