Ok.. so I am getting ready to buy the stove pipe that I think I need..

[kevinrea]

I am getting ready to buy the stove pipe for my new wood burning stove.
can I use the Simpson Duravent double wall all the way from the top of the stove to the bottom of the roof ?
if so, how about the 6" telescoping pieces they sell like: #8647 or 8646 or the non telescoping pieces like: 8648 or 8624.

do i need external ring connectors on each of the connections ?

thanks,
kevin rea
palmdale, calif.

 

[BJ64]

If you have the manual for the stove, there is an install section. Usually in the install section is a list of approved chimney pipe that is certified to work with your stove.

Chimney pipe, in my case (SuperVent brand) was a solid pack pipe with mineral wool insulation. I was able to buy a kit that had the roof flashing, storm collar, and rain cap. This same kit also included the parts for the ceiling penetration. One of those parts was an adapter to fit the connecting pipe. The connecting pipe runs between the stove and ceiling. Basically the connecting pipe connects the stove to the chimney.

One thing we want to be sure of - we want the connecting pipe and the chimney pipe to be of the same brand.

If you could tell us the brand and model of your new stove, someone here will be eager to help you determine the right pipe for a proper and save installation, what parts you will need, and perhaps even some ideas on where to get it at

Oh and by the way, Welcome to the forum!

 

[kevinrea]

thanks for trying to help me with this.

my stove is a: century hearth FW240007

kevin

 

[kevinrea]

so, is the pipe that goes from the top of the stand alone wood fireplace to the ceiling a different pipe than what goes from the top of the ceiling through/to the roof ?

also, on the stove placement with respect to walls, in the manual it says 18" for sides, and 15" for back,.... i am assuming this is for normal walls, not insualted with brick or metal, just normal living room walls..
so, if I want to place it close to the wall than those measurements, is that when I do a brick and other fireproofing to the wall ?
thanks,

kevin

 

[bayshorecs]

Not sure on the clearances to brick. For the pipe, you will need simpson DVL for the inside, DVL chimney adaptor, finishing collar, ceiling adaptor or thimble (also a Tee with cap if thimble), class a duratech chimney pipe, maybe a firestop or roof flashing depending on your install, storm collar, chimney cap, adjustable wall straps, maybe a extended roof bracket depending on height, etc.

You may want to draw out the install and post it. Also, you may not get your chimney for a few weeks. Mine took 6 weeks to get all the parts. Just got it installed on Wednesday.

 

[fossil]

That's the same stove I have in my workshop. Pipe terminology is, in a nutshell: the pipe that connects into the flue collar on the top of the stove and goes up to the first penetration through the stucture (wall or ceiling) is called stovepipe or connector pipe. It can be single-wall or double-wall. At the ceiling or wall, whichever you're penetrating, you need to transition to Class A chimney pipe, which is insulated double-wall pipe. That same pipe is then used for the remainder of the run all the way up to the termination of the chimney & the cap. From the support box that properly penetrates the structure all the way up to the cap, you need to use compatible components all from the same manufacturer's line. Every place that piping penetrates the structure (ceiling and roof, for example) you need to install the appropriate transition component to safely install the system. If you're using double wall connector pipe, it's a good idea to stick with the same manufacturer as your chimney pipe. If you're going to use single-wall connector pipe, then it's not so important that it be from the same line as the chimney. The major manufacturers of pipe all have detailed installation guides on their websites, and there is some really good basic information available by searching Hearth.com for "chimney" or "installation". The instruction/owner's manual that came with your stove makes no mention of any permissible reduction of the listed minimum required clearances to combustibles using additional shielding, so the safest assumption to make is that you cannot violate those clearances as shown in the installation instructions (18" to the side, 15" to the rear). If you describe your installation in a bit more detail, and perhaps post some pics, we may be able to help out in better detail. Rick

 

[kevinrea]

i'm really not concerned that the manual does not mention any clearance dimensions decreasing for an insulated/rock/ceramic wall.

what I am asking is, if installing insulating non-flammable material on walls around a free standing wood burning stove does not reduce the distance you can place
that stove from the wall, then what is the point ?

it makes no logical sense that you could not move the stove/fireplace significantly closer to that wall/surface if it were properly insulated.


well ???



kevin

 

[bayshorecs]

The code describes how to calculate the clearance reductions based on what you do. You could also call some dealers to feel out what they say. I thought I read somewhere about 66% reduction is the most you can get with a 12 inch min clearance. Not sure though, just sticks in my head.

The bigger issue is if the the manufacture of the stove says no reduction, you may run into a problem with insurance and inspections.

Here is a link on the clearance stuff:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/ind...learances_installing_it_safely?id=63_0_1_0_M1

Here is a link on the clearance info for you stove:

(broken link removed to http://www.vermontcastings.com/catalog/elements/files/FW240007-8.pdf)


Based on that info, the closest you could get with the proper insulation is 12 inches.