OK well I ordered a decent stove today...

[MikeThePipe]

>I’m curious about why the switch from an insert to a freestanding stove?
As mentioned in my other thread, this house is a rental (lets hope he has fire insurance!). When I buy a place sometime before I die, I will take my free standing wood burning stove and do a proper install.

>Now, about that chimney. . .yeah. . .that’s probably gonna be another $300 or so for 20-25’ of 6†stainless flex pipe to run up your masonry chimney.
Hahaha.... er no. A quick visit to my local HVAC store today had me 13ft of single wall galvanized stove pipe for $30 and two fully adjustable elbows (0-90deg) to get through the damper for $6 ea. I declined the 2000deg caulking material for $15. Waaaay to expensive.

This stove is going into a brick chimney that is in good order. I dont care if this pipe is made of cardboard. It does not need to last, it does not need clearance to combustibles, it is not going through a wall or ceiling its going straight up a brick chimney. It sole purpose is to pipe smoke from the stove to the top of the chimney. I shall be stuffing pink fiberglass insulation (without the flamable backing duh) around the pip to prevent smoke going back down the house (not my idea, but a good one), and stuffing some around the pipe at the damper just to be sure.

You ever tried to burn fibreglass insulation?

Total over engineered install (for this temporary house anyway) somewhere around $60. Would you like me to make an installation video to show the finer points?

I assume I can use stove cement on the joints to facilitate a good seal?

PS. This damn stove better be worth it....

 

[greythorn3]

just bought me a newer used blaze king princess with a cat in it today. cant wait to swap out the non cat king for the cat princess and see how it works. gona put the king in the polebarn instead of the barrel stove i was building.

 

[Battenkiller]

Yer gonna love that 13, Mike!

BK, don't you know you'll burn half the wood and your house will be warmer? Dang, you are a slow learner!

Well, ya know, I don't need it any warmer, but if I could get by on 2 1/2 cord my 60 year old bones would feel 30 again. ;-)

BTW how's that 30 treatin' ya?

Best decision I've made in a while to get that thing. It's definitely keeping us warmer so far this season.

That's good to hear.

That seems like one of the most reliable big heaters out there. I can't believe the price on a stove of that quality. They must sell a ton. If only they'd come out with a model with some rock around that box. %-P

 

[North of 60]

Hahaha.... er no. A quick visit to my local HVAC store today had me 13ft of single wall galvanized stove pipe for $30 and two fully adjustable elbows (0-90deg) to get through the damper for $6 ea. I declined the 2000deg caulking material for $15. Waaaay to expensive.

This stove is going into a brick chimney that is in good order. I dont care if this pipe is made of cardboard. It does not need to last, it does not need clearance to combustibles, it is not going through a wall or ceiling its going straight up a brick chimney. It sole purpose is to pipe smoke from the stove to the top of the chimney. I shall be stuffing pink fiberglass insulation (without the flamable backing duh) around the pip to prevent smoke going back down the house (not my idea, but a good one), and stuffing some around the pipe at the damper just to be sure.

You ever tried to burn fibreglass insulation?

Total over engineered install (for this temporary house anyway) somewhere around $60.

Sounds like its gonna be a temporary house for sure.
Either it will burn down.
Off gas from the galvanized pipe you bought. Will make you sick. Great Engineering by the way.
If the land lord knew how brilliant you were, he should kick your a$$ out of his home as what insurance company will ever cover this install marvel.
You push buttons, well so can I

Great stove choice but the rest is 1/2 a$$.

 

[begreen]

Total over engineered install (for this temporary house anyway) somewhere around $60. Would you like me to make an installation video to show the finer points?


PS. This damn stove better be worth it....

For someone spouting engineering credentials, since when is safety overengineered? If you're only renting a car, is dragging a stick out the door sufficient for braking? It only takes a moment to make a fatal mistake.

Is the chimney at least clay lined? Get that chimney cleaned first. Or this will be a serious engineering failure.

PS: Or what?

 

[HotCoals]

I was close with the #10 soup can idea.

 

[jharkin]

Mike, after seeing your last couple of threads I came by this, and I was all ready to congratulate you for finally getting down off your "I know better than the experts" tip and taking good advice to buy a safe stove.

Good job on the stove purchase BTW.

But seriously, you have to stop assuming that you know better than the folks who designed the stoves and developed the safety codes, and better than people who have burned for their entire lives here. Ive read your other threads. I see that you are a software developer. I'm guessing your degree is in Computer Science or Information Technology - am I right? What makes you think a computer scientist is in any way qualified to redesign stove pipe? Really, would you consider a chemical engineer who never took a single programming course qualified to write code? Seriously. Stop thinking you are better than the entire freaking world. Its NOT making you any fiends here. We all have a ton of patience and sincerely want to help, if not we would have walked from these threads already. But you have to meet us half way, and loosing the teen attitude is a good first step.


Let me bottom line it for you: All of us here were 20 years old once and went through the "invincible" phase. I see it at work a lot - some young kid I hire gets to their 1st annual performance review and gives me the "I should be the boss" speech. I wish them well in their next job....


Oh and one more thing - stop accusing all of us of being software pirates. Thats not making you any friends either. I work in software and pay for every application I have thank you very much.

 

[jharkin]

One other point...

You ever tried to burn fibreglass insulation?

Sure glass doesn't burn. But there is a reason the fire codes do not consider fiberglass noncombustible. I'd tell you to go try it and find out but I don't want to be sent to jail when the formaldehyde fumes put you in the hospital.

Get it? Unlike software the stuff you are playing with now IS an area where what you don't know really CAN kill you.

 

[woodmiser]

>I’m curious about why the switch from an insert to a freestanding stove?
As mentioned in my other thread, this house is a rental (lets hope he has fire insurance!). When I buy a place sometime before I die, I will take my free standing wood burning stove and do a proper install.

Would you call this an admission of an improper install?

 

[Ctd01]

My 13 will be comming today. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but blains farm an fleet had it for 550 with a blower. shipping to my door was an extra 120. I went to lowes and they saidthey could match it but they cant give me the blower so I got it from blains. http://www.farmandfleet.com/product...ove.html?lref=/catalog/find.aspx?t=wood+stove

 

[ansehnlich1]

[quote author="MikeThePipe" date="1324033774"

>Now, about that chimney. . .yeah. . .that’s probably gonna be another $300 or so for 20-25’ of 6†stainless flex pipe to run up your masonry chimney.
Hahaha.... er no. A quick visit to my local HVAC store today had me 13ft of single wall galvanized stove pipe for $30 and two fully adjustable elbows (0-90deg) to get through the damper for $6 ea.[/quote]

MikeThePIpe! You just showed me everything I need to know about the kind of guy you are.

Keep us updated on the install, with pics

Lord, it's hard to be humble.......

 

[Huntindog1]

You should at least get some black pipe to run inside the house till you get up the chimney. I understand you most likely think its a decent masonary chimney with a clay liner so the galvanized fumes will go up the chimney and be contained in the chimney and out the top but at least dont let the burning of the galvanized get in the house by using black pipe.

Plus make sure you use a lot of screws to hold it all together dont just push the pieces together and hope it holds together.

But like the others you really should be using the proper pipe for safety reasons.

 

[Wood Duck]

Mikethepipe - Do you have a fireplace big enough to fit the stove inside, so that the pipe runs straight up from the stove, or does the stove sit outside the fireplace so there are some elbows to get the pipe into the chimney? With elbows 13 ft of pipe may not be enough to draw air through your stove.

I can't comment on the type of pipe you're using, but you'll want to make sure you have enough for a good draft or the stove will be a pain to operate.

 

[jharkin]

The comments on galv. are correct. Its only code approved for gas appliance. The heat of wood exhaust will put some nasty stuff into his indoor air.


Not sure why I'm wasting my breath though... I really don't think he is going to listen to us - just look at his new signature line At least we can tell he doesn't have a wife or kids in the house that will get hurt by his stupidity.

 

[Wood Duck]

...

Not sure why I'm wasting my breath though... I really don't think he is going to listen to us - just look at his new signature line ....

Yeah! We're not ALL old.

 

[Ctd01]

Do not use galvinized pipe very dangerous!!

 

[Danno77]

Mike, use some of that code knowledge to throw those quotes into boxes and then responses following. It will make it much easier to read.

 

[jharkin]

Danno you missed it... Mikey here is a l33t H4X0R . Our quoting rules don't apply to him

 

[Danno77]

Danno you missed it... Mikey here is a l33t H4X0R . Our quoting rules don't apply to him

Ahhh. I see. Never mind, then.

 

[Danno77]

BTW, fiberglass won't burn or melt, but the glue in it will outgas and maybe even burn off, then when the glue is gone, you get fiberglass particles floating all over the place. Personally, if you have a block off plate and you stuff regular fiberglass up there I don't think it will hurt anything as long as the plate seals it up in there.

 

[maple1]

Fiberglass will burn - try it.

I just tossed a piece of it on a coal bed in my furnace - I don't think I'd want what happened to that to happen to it between my pipe & bricks.

The second aspect of that is how good the brick chimney really is. I have seen the aftermath of a flue fire igniting walls thru what someone thought was a good brick chimney - mortar deteriorates over time.

If you are determined to try the pipe-in-bricks thing, leave out the insulation and block off each end with some sheet metal cut to fit - even then it's a very iffy install, especially with galvanized pipe. There is a reason that stove pipe is not galvanized.

All this advice is not being given just to disagree with you, it is intended to help.

 

[Agent]

I'm gonna laugh when he comes back with pictures of a $5k+ professional install.
But seriously on the Galv pipe - No. Not only the zinc offgassing, but the gas appliance rated stuff is quite a bit thinner, and can easily be burned through. Heck, my Buck stove had a zinc wire protector that melted, and inches from the actual firebox.

 

[Ctd01]

I put my stack into a brick chimney. I bout a stainless smooth interior flex king pro. If your goin to do it do it right and you shouldnt have to worry about it. Dont cheap out when it comes to safety!

 

[pen]

It has been explained what should be done for this install to be safe and for his stove to work properly.

If he needs help doing that we are here. If he chooses to do this his way since he's a software engineer and all, instead of following the collective wisdom from those with experience, that's entirely on him.

Nothing more needs to be added.

pen