Older Jotul 602s versus new EPA compliant models

[Maxwell]

First of all, I'm new to wood stoves and this forum: Gladtameetcha! I want to put a small wood stove into my small (approx. 675 sq. feet), three-season weekend cabin in the northwest corner of Connecticut. I'm looking to take the chill off in the early spring and and late fall, but the intent is not to heat 24/7 through the depth of winter.
I'm looking to install a Jotul 602 in the corner of the main room (15x12 feet), and clearances are obviously tight. I'll have to build a heat shield in the corner to get under the recommended minimum distance to combustibles.

Here's my question: I understand that newer 602s CBs have a factory installed rear heat shield. Is it possible to install one of these Jotul heat shields on an older 602?
Also, is there any reason I should not go for an older model 602 in this setting, but spend money on new 602CB? I understand the newer, EPA-compliant 602s burn cleaner, but I've also been told they are harder to "throttle down" and burn at a lower rate. Again, this is not for a heavy, heat-intensive application but for occasional use in the fall and spring.
Many thanks in advance.

 

[begreen]

A used 602 will work for this application. I wouldn't want to try to take the cabin from 10F to 60F and keep it there, but for chill chasing from 30F it should be ok. Don't expect long burn times though. If you want tested rear shielding then get the modern F602CB. It is fairly easy to run and control. With its small firebox it's not going to run away on you.

 

[Maxwell]

Thanks for the advice, Begreen. Anything I should look out for when inspecting/evaluating older 602s for purchase? Do the inside cast-iron blast plates wear out?

Another question: Is the Morso 2B equivalent to the Jotul 602 in terms of heat output and clearances? They appear to be very similar according to their respective websites.

 

[begreen]

Yes, look them over carefully on the outside and inside for cracks. And on the inside look at the condition of the side burn plates and baffle.

If you are looking for this form factor in a EPA new stove the Morso 2B is a better build IMO and a good alternative. It's a nice small heater.

 

[Maxwell]

Thanks for the insight. Yesterday I finally took the plunge and purchased a second-hand Jotul 602 for $350. It is an older model but appears in very good condition. Interior burn plates and top baffle are in good shape to my eye and there are no cracks in the casing. Looking forward to installing it later this winter/spring in my cabin. I have a few questions in the meantime:

1.) The 602 is probably 20 years old, minimum. I don't know the last it was fired. It does not appear to be a UL-compliant model with the bottom burn plate. Will that complicate my home-owners insurance once it is installed, assuming it otherwise meets local codes?

2. Without the bottom burn plate, I know the stove requires a bed of ash or sand before burning anything. How deep a bed of sand/ash does it require?

3. The door gasket is missing. What size gasket material does it take? Any idea of a good source to purchase it from? Also, should there be gaskets on the inside of the stove where the various plates meet?

many thanks to all.

 

[begreen]

Put in enough sand or ash to cover the wavy ribs on the bottom plate. Maybe 3/4"? Note that this is actually a plate. If you take apart the stove you will find that it is bolted to the base and has a thin layer of mineral fiber insulation under it. If your stove firebox bed does not show those wavy lines then something is missing.

Sorry I can't remember for sure but I think I put in a 3/8" door gasket.

 

[Maxwell]

I downloaded a Jotul manual for earlier models of 602 and it appears that the non-UL models did not have the bottom burn plate with wavy lines, as well as slightly different side burn plates.

My question about non-UL compliance and homeowners-insurance coverage remains; anyone know the answer?

 

[begreen]

Mine is a pre-UL model, I think circa 1983? It has the bottom burn plate. Here is a diagram of the 602. Part #35 is the bottom burn plate and #34 is the insulation blanket. If you vacuum out the stove bottom you should find the retaining bolt a few inches back.

 

[Maxwell]

This is getting curiouser and curiouser. I scooped aside the ashes and see what appears to be the insulation blanket but there is no bottom burn plate with the wavy lines.

Can the stove be operated safely without it if I have sufficient sand/ashes in the firebox? Can I add the bottom plate if I can find one second hand?

According the the Jotul manual I found online, not all 602s were so equipped. See the notation on the diagram on page 5.

(broken link removed to http://jotul.com/us/guides/_attachment/12835?_download=true&_ts=13e1d3d1aec)

Thanks for all your help.

 

[begreen]

Clean out all the ashes and vacuum out the stove. Then look for the bolt hole. It should be for a 10mm bolt. I don't think the stove is meant to be run with ashes directly on the bottom insulation blanket. Without this burn plate there is going to be much more heat directed toward the hearth too. That would change the hearth insulation requirements one would think.