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I've noticed with my Jotul F600, a similar, but slightly larger stove than the Oslo, it will burn much hotter, quicker when I load it N/S.
DO you think I could of burned it too hot? I had it on high until it got going well then put down to med then low
Just curious what wall temps would make you uncomfortable with drywall?So glad that this didn't turn out worse. Jotul's cast iron stoves are highly radiant. Our Castine exceeded corner clearances by 3" and I still was uncomfortable with wall temps. And that was with double-wall stove pipe.
DO you think I could of burned it too hot? I had it on high until it got going well then put down to med then low
Yep, that's why it's good to use a flue meter on the pipe, 12-18" above the flue exit. This meter can react a lot faster that a stove top meter will, especially with a roaring fire. I avoid a blazing inferno and opt for just a bit of lively flame at the most when ramping up to temp. That burned area seems to indicate heat coming off the connector pipe.The only time I ever had a run away fire in my Jotul F600 was with a similar load as in your photos. The stove wasn't even at 300 F when I noticed the T-connector starting to glow red hot! The fire was burning so vigorously that the flames were shooting straight up over the top of the baffle and blasting the back of the Tee before shooting up the flue.
Yep, if you're not familiar with this particular stove, or wood burning in general, start with small load and/or big splits to control the gassing. Start cutting the air early, before you get too much gassing and have a hot stove that's hard to slow down.It's rare that I would ever load up a stove like this with smaller splits . . . normally once I have a fire going I'll have 3-4 splits in the Oslo. When starting the fire from a cold start I typically have about the same amount.
Staying in temp Housing. Chose in part because of woodstove which I asked about and made sure I could use. Filled it for first time today... Thank god I was sat in same room and noticed the smoke!!
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As a fire fighter I can so wow that's a close call, but now the scientist in me has a question.. Suppose the landlord moves the stove to the correct clearance, will it totally eliminate the hazard? I don't think so, my reasoning is that the wood has become compromised, especially the studs behind the sheet rock (which often gets over looked) I think now the wood that was effected has a low ignition point due to a change in its chemical make up. If anyone here has more knowledge about this (thinking of pyrolysis) please chime in either to correct me or better explain what I'm thinking.
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