Opinions on Installation Plan

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jeremiah77

Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 20, 2010
10
Central MD
First off, I love this forum and have spent many an enjoyable hour reading your posts. That said, I will apologize in advance because, despite my best efforts to search for previous threads that respond to some of these questions, I am sure I have managed to overlook some very helpful threads.... Thank you for your patience! And, I am posting this on behalf of my husband - I'm guessing my understanding is at about 70% of his, so if I say something incredibly stupid, please just give us the benefit of the doubt and assume that my husband wouldn't have been quite so dense!

We have a 1,200 sq ft two story farmhouse into which we will be installing an old Timberline. We are in the process of entirely renovating the house and have some leeway as to installation... My husband is a contractor trained as a mason, welder, electrician, plumber etc etc, making us lucky (or at least me lucky!) when it comes to getting things done cheaply. We have a couple of very helpful old books on wood stove heating from the 70s, he grew up with a wood stove in PA, and we are fairly sensible and conscious of safety. Even with no functioning fireplace at the moment we have two fire extinguishers and about 8 smoke detectors, plus a couple of CO detectors. I say all this so that you are aware that the more basic safety lectures can be bypassed. Some questions follow the list of info below.

Things we have already looked into -
1. Our insurance has no issue with wood stoves - I have called three times and asked three different people, so at this point I feel comfortable assuming that installing such an old monster isn't going to void our home insurance
2. We live in an fairly rural area overrun with old wood stoves, so I am not worried about complaints about the smoke etc
3. I have a copy of NFPA 211 that I will review more carefully when I find some time, but I have looked over it briefly.

Stove Specs:

Approx 3.0 cubic feet. Yes, we know this is overkill in a small house, but we will be adding an addition and our insulation is currently crap (though it will be getting better soon). If it is just too much we'll swap out for a small Nashua sitting in our barn.
8" Flue
Front loading (not sure if there are any other types of Timberlines?)

Installation Ideas at this point:

1" air circulation between walls and stove surround achieved with metal studs (he called them some other name which I can't remember but I am assuming they are fairly similar to studs) and cement board
Brick lining all around the stove, including as a hearth
Minimum of 18" clearance to bricks - I am aware of the 36" recommendation for older monster stoves, but I am assuming from other reading and posts on this site that the air circulation and brick hearth will mean that 18" is sufficient.

Chimney Specs:

We will be building a new chimney from scratch and here is where we are running into some interesting decisions.
The chimney will be a straight shot from stove to roof, approx 25' top to bottom, entirely interior and not near an outside wall
He is planning on using chimney block, 16"x16" exterior dimensions, 8"x8" interior square
Lining - round terra cotta flue tiles (not sure of the name)
Because there will be no bends and the stove is hot, we are thinking a damper will be necessary (forgive me if that is not quite the correct spelling of the word, but perhaps you can take my meaning).
The reason we are thinking of taking this route is basically cost - we can install the chimney for approx $500... Good chimney pipe is incredibly expensive, and refitting our existing chimneys will be a lot of work and almost as much money.

Questions:

1. I have seen many posts of whether to install flex or rigid pipe lining in chimneys on this forum, and my take away is that if your chimney is built well enough and of appropriate size, this is not necessary. Is this a safe assumption? We know liners add an added measure of safety and insulation, but are willing to forgo these benefits given the cost provided our current plan isn't a death trap.
2. Is there any reason you would advise not to build a chimney as described above? If so, what would you suggest in its place that isn't massively expensive? (A broad question, I know)
3. If we do the above chimney design, do we need to insulate the spaces between the round chimney tiles and the square block (this is my question, my husband might know the answer already, so one of those cases of assuming that he is smarter than me!)
4. Is there a significant advantage to setting the chimney 1" off the nearest wall so that all four sides are exposed - I know this is supposedly preferable, but just how much so?
5. Lastly, any good threads on tips and tricks for using old Timberlines as efficiently as possible?? I have looked and have seen a few videos on this site on stoves that aren't quite the same...

Thanks for reading this massive post and for any help!
 
This seems a lot of hassle to go through for an obsolete stove. By getting a new stove (with tax credit for the stove and installation) it may be more cost effective. This would set you up for a 6" flue liner that may cost less and a lot more efficient burning. Just a thought before taking what may be a more complicated route.

If that is interesting, tell us a bit more about the existing chimneys, locations and issues or concerns. If the chimney does not currently have a tile liner, it will need to be lined. The easiest way to do this is usually with a stainless liner. This can be done by the homeowner that has good DIY skills and is safe and comfortable with getting on the roof for part of the job. If the chimney does have a tile liner that is in good condition, certified as safe to burn in, and appropriately sized, it may be possible to use it with the Timberline. But we need actual dimensions of the flue tiles. There will also be the questions of "does the stove fit the space, how is it connected if the flue outlet is too high, are clearances to combustibles safe, and do I have dry wood to burn" that need to be addressed.
 
Not being an expert by any means I would not go with a masonry chimney. They are a giant heat sink and the large amounts of creosote you Timberline will produce will stick to the clay liner very well. I grew up with a Timberline insert in a masonry chimney it was an exterior chimney though. That chimney was very dirty when they removed the insert.

Look online or check out the habitat stores for some good class a pipe. While the masonry chimney will be much less cost to build with free labor it will be a lot more work in the long run. Cleaning out that masonry chimney will be a lot of mess. You will have to put in a clean out at the bottom and you will have to disassemble the stove pipe to clean it out as well.

If you go with class a pipe it will have less build up and the creosote will just fall straight down into the stove. If you do decide to go with the masonry chimney use a stainless liner that way you can insulate it and it will be easier to clean.
 
Thanks for the opinions, they both sound sensible. Any suggestions on how to find a decent local dealer? We are new in the area (about 30 mins west of Baltimore) and are willing to consult with a local company to consider a newer stove and installation...
 
Hopefully some local MD folks will chime in here soon.

The option I was thinking about was not from a dealer. That would be the Englander 13NC. This is a modern, American made, 2 cu ft steel stove that is sold via big box stores like Home Depot or can be ordered online from www.overstockstoves.com (which happens to be closely associated with the mfg. ;-) ) The stove sells for about $700, but for the installation costs, we will still need to know a lot more about the existing chimneys. Let's say you can use your existing chimney, with a liner that costs around $500. You will get a 30% tax credit on that purchase so the hypothetical cost of installation would be $840.
 
Thanks BeGreen,

The only viable chimney in the house is currently terminated below the roof line. No guess as to age (70+ years?), but it is unlined and only one brick thick. The interior space is more than big enough to fit an insulated 6" pipe, but we have no idea about the state of the chimney as it has been walled over. We will be gutting our entire house soon anyway, so we can start to pull the walls off to see it, but frankly it doesn't look fantastic! Our current plan is just to tear it down. If we keep it, we'd obviously have to build it up out of the roof. Is it possible to run new pipe into a single-brick thick chimney and end up with a safe operation?? We were skeptical about using such a flimsy chimney. I am sorry I don't have interior dimensions but my husband might be home soon...

The other two chimneys are crappy modern brick ones on an exterior corner (!) of the house... Don't know how you would expect to heat a house from a far corner, but I guess they just added the chimney and fireplace onto the 110 year old living room recently.

Thanks for the stove recommendation, I'll have a look now.
 
It is possible to do this safely. That is the intent of the insulated liner. It would need to switch to class A pipe at the top of the stub and through the roof. However, if the chimney is in bad shape and in the way or a less than ideal location, then it may not be worth it. A new metal system will run about $1200 to 1500, but it will be very safe, easy to clean and sized correctly for the stove. And it qualifies for the tax credit if a new stove is installed.
 
I agree with going with a better stove (whether new or used), but I'm not sure what's wrong with building a new masonry chimney with a 6" round ceramic tile flue if you are going to work from scratch and put in a more modern EPA-stove with a 6" vent. Maybe some forum members can chime in on possible negatives, other than removing the pipe at the thimble for cleaning. If it is an interior chimney, being a heat sink is not a problem at all - and it can easily and cheaply be insulated by pouring loose perlite between the flue tile and chimney block. If a new stove is used correctly, there won't be much chimney cleaning to do anyway.
 
jeremiah77 said:
Thanks for the opinions, they both sound sensible. Any suggestions on how to find a decent local dealer? We are new in the area (about 30 mins west of Baltimore) and are willing to consult with a local company to consider a newer stove and installation...

I can recommend Fireside Stone and Patio in Clarksville, MD (just SW of Columbia). http://www.firesidestone.com/index.htm

I bought my Jotul Oslo from them. Very knowledgeable and helpful. They do installations as well as sell stoves. I was doing a self-install and they were very helpful in answering my questions.

There is also another long-time dealer in Buckeystown, just south of Fredrick, Bodmer's Stove and Pottery

http://www.frederick.com/index.php?action=store&id=850

I bought some parts for my old stove from them back in the 80s. I haven't had dealings with them other than that. But I know that they are a reputable dealer that has been in business for a long time.

It is worth getting some professional advice. Also this time of year is better than later in October or November to check in with them.
 
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